14b vs. t25

[spawn87]

OK guys so I'm getting a 14b turbo for 100 bucks. and i have a couple questions.
(i don't plan on doing anymore upgrades besides the ones i have listed.)

1...i want to buy the install kit for the 16g, as far as Ive heard that's all i need for the
swap.right?
i was also told i should have a MBC to control the boost on the 14b cause it can over boost
(i plan to keep it at 15psi)
2..at what psi dose the waste gate on the 14b open?
3..can i run it with the stock fuel system?
4..is there any tuning involved?

thank you for the help

 

[93_tsi_fwd]

1. All you really need is an Oil feed line, oil return line and a J pipe, and some gaskets.

2. You will need a MBC if you want to run 15 psi. the stock wastegate pressure is like 10 to 12 psi.

3. your stock fuel system will be fine.

4. No tuning needed.

 

[92talon_man]

well c i have a 14b on my car and after i installed it i started having problems with fuel cut and boost spike. i had a t28 on b4 and no problem but it also had shaft play

 

[95redturboawd]

If you've never installed a turbo before don't plan on it taking 6 hours like the tutorial said. Took me three weeks. You need a SS feed line and a 1g return line. And some radiator hose to make the water liens work. And new gaskets.

 

[poconomotorspor]

If you've never installed a turbo before don't plan on it taking 6 hours like the tutorial said. Took me three weeks. You need a SS feed line and a 1g return line. And some radiator hose to make the water liens work. And new gaskets.

3 weeks?....
back on topic...are you running a 420a or a 4g63? if your running 440cc injectors youll run into the same problems i did. Depending on the size of the flapper on tehh waste gate, boost creep can occur.
I had a 32mm flapper and it boost creeped from 15 to 22 and before i knew it i was hitting fuel cut. The best way to avoid this is to invest in a good boost gauge and not nescesarily a MBC...i personally like my EBC because theres no hood popping involved with adjusting boost pressures.
Be careful on what type of BOV you run also because i ran a greddy type RS and had compressor surge from hell with the 14b and evoIII 16 g. Even with the middle tentioning spring removed.

It should be a relatively simple install but make sure you have the oil feed line and the AN fitting that threads into the turbo. in my 16g it was a 12 mm to 4AN.

 

[spawn87]

3 weeks?....
back on topic...are you running a 420a or a 4g63? if your running 440cc injectors youll run into the same problems i did. Depending on the size of the flapper on tehh waste gate, boost creep can occur.
I had a 32mm flapper and it boost creeped from 15 to 22 and before i knew it i was hitting fuel cut. The best way to avoid this is to invest in a good boost gauge and not nescesarily a MBC...i personally like my EBC because theres no hood popping involved with adjusting boost pressures.
Be careful on what type of BOV you run also because i ran a greddy type RS and had compressor surge from hell with the 14b and evoIII 16 g. Even with the middle tentioning spring removed.

It should be a relatively simple install but make sure you have the oil feed line and the AN fitting that threads into the turbo. in my 16g it was a 12 mm to 4AN.

well i know i can do it in a couple hours cus i got all the tools and pretty handy around the motor ...i have a boost guage and mbc installed already...but can u explain a litle more about compressor surge please. by the way i have a greddy type s bov.

 

[95redturboawd]

3 weeks?....
back on topic...are you running a 420a or a 4g63? if your running 440cc injectors youll run into the same problems i did. Depending on the size of the flapper on tehh waste gate, boost creep can occur.
I had a 32mm flapper and it boost creeped from 15 to 22 and before i knew it i was hitting fuel cut. The best way to avoid this is to invest in a good boost gauge and not nescesarily a MBC...i personally like my EBC because theres no hood popping involved with adjusting boost pressures.
Be careful on what type of BOV you run also because i ran a greddy type RS and had compressor surge from hell with the 14b and evoIII 16 g. Even with the middle tentioning spring removed.

It should be a relatively simple install but make sure you have the oil feed line and the AN fitting that threads into the turbo. in my 16g it was a 12 mm to 4AN.

Class + no way to get to the hardware store + lack of tools + bunch of small problems + first time doing it.

 

[MrBoxx]

well i know i can do it in a couple hours cus i got all the tools and pretty handy around the motor ...i have a boost guage and mbc installed already...but can u explain a litle more about compressor surge please. by the way i have a greddy type s bov.

Please remember to use proper spelling, grammar, punctuation, and capitalization. "because" not "cus", "see", not "c", etc.

While the turbo is off the car, you might as well port the turbine inlet. Look at the VFAQ porting section for more info on that. There are also many threads on here regarding turbo porting.

You won't need to tune, or upgrade the stock fuel system, IF you keep the boost low. Keep it at 12-14psi, keep an eye on your datalogger ( you DO have a datalogger, right?) and test for boost leaks. When you can, upgrade to a 190lph fuel pump and do the fuel pump rewire ($15 bucks in parts and an hour of your time).

You probably won't get compressor surge. What's more likely is boost creep or boost spike. Make sure your BOV is recirculated into the intake tract. Make sure that your MBC is NOT tapped on the BOV line. Use a nipple in the lower intercooler pipe or the turbo compressor housing for the boost source for the MBC.

 

[spawn87]

Please remember to use proper spelling, grammar, punctuation, and capitalization. "because" not "cus", "see", not "c", etc.

While the turbo is off the car, you might as well port the turbine inlet. Look at the VFAQ porting section for more info on that. There are also many threads on here regarding turbo porting.

You won't need to tune, or upgrade the stock fuel system, IF you keep the boost low. Keep it at 12-14psi, keep an eye on your datalogger ( you DO have a datalogger, right?) and test for boost leaks. When you can, upgrade to a 190lph fuel pump and do the fuel pump rewire ($15 bucks in parts and an hour of your time).

You probably won't get compressor surge. What's more likely is boost creep or boost spike. Make sure your BOV is recirculated into the intake tract. Make sure that your MBC is NOT tapped on the BOV line. Use a nipple in the lower intercooler pipe or the turbo compressor housing for the boost source for the MBC.

my apologies, and as for the logger i didnt think i would need one yet.

 

[gorf]

If you've never installed a turbo before don't plan on it taking 6 hours like the tutorial said. Took me three weeks. You need a SS feed line and a 1g return line. And some radiator hose to make the water liens work. And new gaskets.

3 weeks... OK

Got any more of that whacky tabacky?

 

[pboglio]

First time turbo swap usually takes a full day or weekend. I've done it in 2.5 hours but I was flying thru it. 3 weeks is nothing. Took me 2 years to swap a tranny.

 

[manny correa]

^

 

[92talon_man]

First time turbo swap usually takes a full day or weekend. I've done it in 2.5 hours but I was flying thru it. 3 weeks is nothing. Took me 2 years to swap a tranny.

2 years! took me an hour and half

 

[JusMX141]

All you really need is an Oil feed line, oil return line and a J pipe, and some gaskets.

Actually, the stock 2G (T25) oil drain tube works fine if you slot the two upper holes inward toward the center a bit. I actually prefer the 2G drain as it's flex section is much less fragile than the 1G drain.

If you're REALLY a hacker, you can actually cut the 2G hard oil feed line at the turbo and splice in the banjo fitting from a 1G oil supply line using a compression union or by flaring the two lines and using a brake line union. Both lines are made using 1/4" tube.

 

[JusMX141]

Took me 2 years to swap a tranny.

I hope you weren't working on it every day. If so, I'm guessing you carved the new tranny from a solid chunk of Ivory with a butter knife.

 

[95redturboawd]

3 weeks... OK

Got any more of that whacky tabacky?

Ok wow I wasn't working on it all day every day. Probably a week of that was waiting for a j-pipe. I'm not a $%@#ing mechanic and I'm a full time student.

 

[pboglio]

I hope you weren't working on it every day. If so, I'm guessing you carved the new tranny from a solid chunk of Ivory with a butter knife.

Hahaha. Thats pretty good. Now I've got the hang of it, I think I could knock it down to maybe 1.5 years. I'm getting better though, brake jobs are down to maybe 2 or 3months. Anybody need a mechanic, I charge by the hour

 

[JusMX141]

Anybody need a mechanic, I charge by the hour

Are you looking to hire? I might be interested.

When changing a tranny with the engine in the car, it never hurts to have a buddy or two around to make things alot easier. I like to have one buddy for 1G trannies, and two buddies for 2G trannies. That 2G rear roll stop can kiss my ass.

 

[92talon_man]

how about installing a turbo timer

 

[jerseydiver84]

shouldnt take to long to do the swap just make sure you have all the components that were mentioned, your stock fuel setup will handle it fine, get a boost gauge and a mbc and call it a day its not that big of a job to do.