Engine Problems!!!

[eweppler]

I have a 92 talon tsi awd that has a rebuilt engine with aout 2,000 miles on it.

Here are the problems i am having. It all started out as a big boost leak and the acceleration had some hesitation and then the radiator was leaking and i didnt notice in time and overheated the car so i replaced the radiator. I got a new intake hose and then the boost leak went away and it worked well for a while. Then a couple of days later the engine started stalling when i came to a complete stop and right away at start up the the rpms would go up to anywhere between 2500 and 3000 rpms and it would stay there for a little while and then the rpms would drop to normal around 750 rpms. Two days ago i was driving to work when i noticed that the boost gauge was stuck at 14 psi for a while and the exhaust was shooting out black smoke at times. Then i got home from work on my break and let the car run for four min before turning it off and then 10 min before i had to leave i started it to let the rpms even out and i went outside to leave and i noticed white smoke rolling from the engine so i ran to the car and shut it off and it sounded like the antifreeze was boiling or else the engine was trying to get more antifreeze. This kinda makes me wonder if it was because i didnt make sure to get out all the air bubles after i replaced the engine coolant sensor. The hole time threw all my problems there has been an engine surge on start up that i thought maybe this was just due to the engine being cold. Also the turbo has been wineing.

I have replaced the radiator, thermostat, radiator cap, intake hose, radiator hoses, fuel pump, and the engine coolant sensor.

Could these problems be the result of having a bad turbo or is there more to my problems? I thought about taking the talon to the mitsubishi dealer just to have them test it and see what the problem is. Is this the way to go?

 

[LTUDSM]

whell i would check the compression,It might be ,that you need to change a headgasket.The Head studs might came loose,and it causes you overheating problems..... White smoke=coolant.... so if you changed everything like you said,and the problem is still here,i would deff check the headgasket...

 

[dragonforce]

When you over heat these aluminum head/ cast iron block, it's easy to warp the head. Do compression check or leak down test.

 

[eweppler]

I did a compression test and the dry test results were 130, 120, 120, and 130. The wet test results were 155, 140, 150, and 150.

 

[eweppler]

Did a little more digging today and realized that my engine may have possibly been overheating because one of my vacumm hoses was stuck in the fan and also the lower intercooler hose was loose. I'm going to clean out my intercooler tonight and then check for shaft play on the turbo and put everything back together and see if shes running better.

 

[eweppler]

Cleaned out the intercooler and checked the turbo for shaft play. There was no shaft play at all havent had time to put everything back together to see if this changes anything with the engine.

 

[sparco431]

alright keep us updated

 

[eweppler]

Ok got everything put back together and im still having the engine stall. while the enging was smokine from the oil on the wet test i noticed that there was an exhaust leak where the turbo bolts up the the exhaust manifold. Could this cause a boost leak causing my problems?

 

[sparco431]

yea you should get the exhaust leak taken care of for sure

 

[eweppler]

Ok still waiting for my exhaust manifold to get here but i decided to check my CEL that is on all the time after a few seconds of running. I pulled up many error codes on it. The ones i caught for sure was 13, 25, and 14; there were other error codes as well but i was unable to have enough time today to sit there and figure it out. Could this possibly mean that the ECU is shot? I do have another ECU but its an eprom and i know its set up for a manual and mine is an automatic. Would it be bad if i hooked up the eprom one and started my talon?

 

[eweppler]

Ok i got my exhaust manifold it is out of a 2G seams to have gotten rid of the exhaust leak. Still having the same problem. My brother used to own the can and when he did the engine rebuild he took out the egr which i believe is causing my problem. I am thinking about putting the egr system back into the car. Would this be my best option?

 

[eweppler]

Ok i have gotten the car to stop stalling it happened to be the BISS screw, I got a new one and put it in and the stalling has stopped. But im still having issues with an unstable idle and acceleration hesitation. I checked the CEL codes and i am coming up with codes; 13 (Air Intake Temp Sensor), 14 (Throttle Position Sensor), 21 (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor), 25 (Barometric Pressure Sensor), and 31 which i do not know yet.

I have tested the Air Intake Temp Sensor and the Throttle Position Sensor and they test out fine, I have also replaced the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor about a yr ago. Could this mean that i either have a bad engine wiring harness or a faulty ECU? I check the ECU for leaky caps and i didnt notice anything.

I have another ECU but it is an Eprom and it is set up for a bigger turbo and bigger injectors. would it work to just try the other ECU to see if it brings up any codes. Or would it be bad to try it since its set up for a bigger turbo and injectors?

 

[eweppler]

Today I was back under the hood again and I decided that I would check the spark plug wires just to make sure they were good. I measured the resistance of my spark plug wires and these were my results; #1 - 4.75 k ohms, #2 - 6.7 k ohms, #3 - 7.4 k ohms, and #4 - 8.55 k ohms. I looked in my service manual and it says that I should be getting these results; #1 - 5.8 k ohms, #2 - 8.4 k ohms, #3 - 10.6 k ohms, and #4 - 9.7 k ohms. So I believe that this is why I am not being able to start my car at times like right now.

 

[falcon8r]

If it is throwing a code for the ECT sensor, that alone could give the non start. Usually bad plug wires will be apparent when under load/ boost as a miss. With so many codes, is the connection plug corroded somewhere in the car. If a modular plug is loose or bad it will throw codes as the ecm sees this resistance or lack of and it is abnormal...codes. It would explain some things. With all the crap to melt ice on the roadway, stuff gets ruined that is not seen redily. Tres...

 

[eweppler]

Last night I checked my timing and it was right on and I also tested my coil and it was good. Then I decided to mess with my plug wires a little bit and after that tried starting the car and it fired right up so I believe my plug wires are part of the problem.

 

[moidsm1]

I would swapout the coolant sensor located on the thermostat housing. Twice this little piece has gotten mewith poor performance and non starting issues. Easy fix both times. You can find them at junk yards off of hyundais, galants, or get a new one, BORG Warner makes a replacement part, I cant find the part number right now,But itshere in Tuners somewhere

The ECU coolant temp sensor part number MD069879 crosses to a Borg-Warner WT3005

Found it.

 

[shadoof77]

My friends 97gsx had a high idle to low idle problem and stalling issues. we did alot of digging in the top of the engine basically ripping apart everything. and one of the valves was loose by a slight bit. who know's how it was like that. So, we replaced all the valves and his idle was fine. Have you dug into the upper part of the block?

 

[eweppler]

I have not dug into the engine at all yet I am kinda new to working on cars too.

 

[chinola69]

check the compression

 

[eweppler]

I've already checked the compression before I will check it again to make sure things are still good. I tried starting it today and it would not start once again. Im going to pull my coolant temp sensor and test it in hot water and also check to connector.

Tomorrow I'm going to check the fuel pump, fuel pressure solenoid, and the pressure regulator. What would be the best way to go about testing these? I am also going to get out my soldering iron and redo my connector for my engine coolant sensor.

I had my heater running in my garage today for a few hours and then I was finally able to start my talon up. So that makes me believe that I do need to redo my connector to my coolant temp sensor, also I must not have tightened up the TPS well enough. I could hear air coming from it while the car was running. Right now I am headed out to the garage with a soldering iron to inspect my connectors and fix the ones that need to be fixed.

 

[eweppler]

Tonight i was able to redo the connector to my coolant temp sensor and it was able to start up now but you can here a big air leak at around the throttle body area and also when you have the key turned on you can hear ticking coming from the engine bay and I notice that it is from the ISC because when I unplug it the ticking stops. Does this mean that my ISC is bad? Also would a bad TPS let air out of it because i think that is where the air is coming from.

 

[moidsm1]

Good find with the Coolant sensor wires, I thought it sounded related to that. ISC;s can be noist but the only way it can leak is if is loose! Go Get a can of Carb Cleaner and while the car is idling, Spray some where you suspect leaks. The RPMS will rise if theres a leak sucking in the Spray. Cool? Let us know what you find.

 

[steve]

Clear the codes and see if they come back. If they do then it's time to check the ECU.

It's normal for the ISC to click/buzz when you first turn the ignition on. If the ISC continues to make noise after then the ECU is moving it around and may be another indication of ECU damage.

The manual ECU will work for testing but it doesn't know about the big change in engine load that happens when you shift the automatic into gear. The ATX code looks at the park/neutral switch and reacts to the trans going into and out of gear.

 

[eweppler]

I have cleared the codes before and they came back but i have not checked them since I replaced the TPS and redid the coolant temp sensor connector wires. However the CEL did come back on so I'm going to check what codes come up now.

 

[eweppler]

All of the codes except for #14 (TPS) came back on and I'm not getting it to start again. So my ECU is throwing CEL codes: 13, 21, 25, and 31. I will have to test the car using the other ECU to make sure if my ECU is working properly.