idle problem

[brandt]

I just put a motor into my car. The car was running great. Put about 200miles on her and everything was good. Went to get my car tuned with dsmlink. My wideband wasnt reading correctly so put a conservative tune on it. Got home turned the car off and when I went back out and started it it was running like shit and I could not drive the car. Got it towed to my work and bought my new wideband and installed it while I was trying to figure out what it could be. I turned the car on and it idled like crap and then after about 5mins of running it would rev to 2k and sit there for a few moments and then dropped down to normal and the car drove like a dream until I turned it off and back on again. Went to tune the car and as soon as i did my first 3rd gear pull when I let off of it and started running like it did when i first started it except it doesnt go away. Unpluged the mafs and it ran rich but I was able to get it back to my work. It would idle right and drive right when the mafs was unplugged. So I went and picked up a mafs from a buddy of mine that was in his running car. Put the new mafs in and it still did the same thing until I unpluged the mafs. what in the world could this be? Im ordering another mafs tomarro when I get to work and Im going to see what that does. Any other ideas?

 

[mcarruthers]

I was having similar problems a couple weeks back. My idle was stuck at 2000rpm- 2500rpm constantley. I found the wire on my idle position switch had came off. Previous to fixing that I had adjusted the BISS Screw with no luck. After I found the wire and reattached that, my idle went from a sticking +2000rpm to a constant surge. I then replace the o-ring on my biss screw and all problems went away.
I have found this particular page to help.
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/downs/7678/dsmtests.html
Good Luck, hope I could help, -Matt

 

[UrN2nd]

i agree my gst was doing the same thing. but i just changed out my TB with an extra i had and it cured it.

 

[bluetlr2001]

Why are you going to buy a new maf when you tried your friends that was working fine and it still does the same thing. That would just about eliminate the maf. Check all you connections on the throttle body and check your temp sensor and check the rest of your connectors. Also have you had a cel come on yet? I see you have a 1g cas listed have you changed the setting in dsmlink for it. Also have you done a boost leak test recently?

 

[KPEclipse]

This is EXACTLY what happened to me. I reset the battery, car ran great. I revved the car up to sit on the stutterbox ONCE and it threw a CEL and the idle isnt all that great. I plan to install a new BISS o ring and possibly a 2g TB if I can find one for cheap after I get my new FMIC.

I did EGR blockoff though, so that could be it too, and my chip is setup for 1g CAS. Id say those are the things to check if your MAF is good. TB, BISS screw, and Boost Leaks.

 

[brandt]

Why are you going to buy a new maf when you tried your friends that was working fine and it still does the same thing. That would just about eliminate the maf. Check all you connections on the throttle body and check your temp sensor and check the rest of your connectors. Also have you had a cel come on yet? I see you have a 1g cas listed have you changed the setting in dsmlink for it. Also have you done a boost leak test recently?

i have not had a cel come on. got one when i unpluged the maf to get it back to my work but thats a givin. for the 1g cas i drove the car for 200miles with no problems at all. it was after i shut the car off after tuning. I also have not updated my profile since i put the new motor in. i should prob do that now. but what i dont understand is that after running a few mins its fine then after driving a few mins is back. turn the car off and back on and it runs like crap then good for a few mins. im gonna replace the biss screw and see whats happens from there.