should i plug off this hose? mbc install

[dsm1212]

alright so here is the way that my turbo is right now
for the first picture.

second picture is how i am going to connect the boost controller

and the third picture is this correct? should i just cap that hose where the t-fitting was?

 

[BootlegGreg]

That hose usually goes to the Boost Control Solenoid. It then goes to the intake pipe if I remember rite. Just cap off the intake pipe and take the hoses off the BCS and zip tie it up somewhere. Do not disconnect the wires for the BCS, because you will get a check engine light rite away.

 

[dsm1212]

hmm i don't think that hose goes to my intake tube ill have to look and make sure

 

[4g63t]

. Do not disconnect the wires for the BCS, because you will get a check engine light rite away.

This never happened to me. I have never ran this solenoid since the day i bought the car 4 years ago.
Yours is probuly different because its a 2g.

I would try it with it removed and see if it gives you trouble.

 

[noonan98turbo]

Just cap off the nipple on the intake pipe as well as the the nipples on the bcs solenoid. The bcs solenoid serves no purpose anymore. But make sure you dont disconnect it or the CEL will come on.

 

[2GAWD4U2NV]

Judging by the pic, I'm going to say that your turbo is a T-25? I have never seen another pressure port on any other turbo. This is how I hooked up my T-25, as the layout is very similar. For your pressure source find a boost source line off the intake manifold (PCV Port), or if you have an upfiring turbo and have to use a j-pipe, it will be on the j-pipe and you can just use that. I'm pretty sure I straight spliced the T, and hooked the wg line off the mbc to the wg nipple. The straight splice you made then connects to the little nipple on your intake. That should have you set. As for the factory BCS, I didn't cap those off and I've never had boost leak/problems. It it still connected though... Let me know if that works.

 

[Aphix]

The T-fitting on the stock setup can be left where it is. I took off the WG actuator line from the WG and capped it and just left it hanging on the t-fitting. I then took off the BCS line from the t-fitting and put my MBC from the BCS hole in the t-fitting to the WG actuator. That way you dont have to unbolt the little line hooked up (which is a pain in the ass and pointless if you do it my way) and saves you alot of time.

Or you could goto your local hardware store and buy a 1/4" vacuum coupler and take the t-fitting off.

 

[kenamond]

Your 3rd picture is the ticket. I'd get new vaccuum hose for $1 from Autozone/Carquest...take one of the stock lines in and have them find the right size for you. If you ever want to restore your car to stock boost control, cap off any free BCS vaccuum lines to keep out dirt or take some of that new hose you're going to get and connect each end to each nipple on the stock BCS and put the other stock hoses somewhere where you won't lose them (there's actually a restrictor plug inside one of the stock vaccuum lines - the one between the compressor nipple and the tee if I recall correctly - and if you toss it and put "vanilla" vaccuum line on (no restricter plug inside it), the car won't boost correctly with the stock BCS).

As was mentioned, leave the electrical connector plugged into the BCS or you'll throw a code. The 1g cars don't throw a code for the BCS, but you have a 2g which will.

Other than that, keep the new vaccuum lines short to limit boost spikes, and make sure any old or new lines are secured (zip ties!!) so that they don't wiggle off or get caught in the radiator fan. Ripping a MBC vaccuum line loose means you have no boost control and you could fry a few very expensive parts as a result.

Hope you have a logger before you increase boost. Hope you have an aftermarket boost gauge, too.

Good luck!

P.S. Nice MS Paint skillz, but...you "caint touch this"

 

[codyw]

1g's dont throw a code because there not OBD2. Which is exactly why I dont like modding a 2g.

 

[bane3d]

This never happened to me. I have never ran this solenoid since the day i bought the car 4 years ago.
Yours is probuly different because its a 2g.

I would try it with it removed and see if it gives you trouble.

He has a 2G, you have a 1G.

1g's dont throw a code because there not OBD2. Which is exactly why I dont like modding a 2g.

Absolutely correct. On a 2G, leave the solenoid plugged in but zip tied up with all hoses disconnected and the nipple off of the intake capped.

d

 

[Aphix]

You wont hurt anything leaving it connected, it just makes the car think its doing its job.

 

[dsm1212]

alright so today i installed an fp t28, fmic, and my hallman pro boost controller. the boost controller is connected the way that i have displayed in my third picture of the original post. except i don't have that other hose capped off haven't figured a way out to do that yet. but anyways i have tried to turn the boost up because i am only at 9 or 10 psi under wot. still stock fuel but i am ordering that stuff tomorrow so for now i wanna run about 14. so i am trying to turn the boost up but it is not going anywhere? planning on doing a boost leak test tomorrow but anything else it could be?

 

[Burnett03]

1g's dont throw a code because there not OBD2. Which is exactly why I dont like modding a 2g.

My 2g doesn't throw codes and it's pretty modified.

 

[dsm1212]

how do you have your boost controller connected?

 

[andy4g63]

Most likely, besides boost leak is the MBC. Nothing wrong with it, but you probably have inside, softer spring and a metall ball. It takes a lot of turning it up, to actually put some pressure on the spring inside, therefore cranking the boost. At least that what it did on mine. I recently changed my soft spring to a STIFF one and ceramic ball, and there is a day and night difference.

 

[dsm1212]

thanks well i guess i'll just have some cranking to do to get it to move a couple of pounds. and i have to wait till monday so i can use my buddys air compressor to do my leak test. where did you find a stiff spring and new ball?

 

[andy4g63]

I gave Hallman MBC a call. It is a $15.

 

[dsm1212]

thanks yes i must have a big boost leak because today i turned up yhe mbc as high as oi would go and soon as i hit wot i would be at 15 psi then it would drop back down to 10

 

[andy4g63]

Be carefull, don't blow the motor.

 

[dsm1212]

isn't 14-15 psi safe on a stock fuel system?

 

[dsm1212]

also under wot i was looking at my pocketlogger and my stft was at -4 and -5 does this mean i am running super rich?

 

[2GAWD4U2NV]

isn't 14-15 psi safe on a stock fuel system?

Actually, when I first hooked up my MBC, I didn't have it hooked up right and I was running open wastegate . It wouldn't go over 25 psi and wouldn't hit fuel cut unless it was above 22 psi for more than 3 seconds at WOT. Once I got it figured out and learned what was actually going on, I easily ran 17psi (highest psi before leaving efficiency range on the T-25) and never hit fuel cut. So I beleive you can also run 17psi on the T-28. I could run 15-17psi on a 14b, and never did give my Evo III 16g time once it hit 15psi to hit fuel cut. So you should be perfectly fine on the amount of psi that you want to run on that turbo. I was on factory fuel pump, lines, rails, and injectors.

 

[kenamond]

Actually, when I first hooked up my MBC, I didn't have it hooked up right and I was running open wastegate . It wouldn't go over 25 psi and wouldn't hit fuel cut unless it was above 22 psi for more than 3 seconds at WOT. Once I got it figured out and learned what was actually going on, I easily ran 17psi (highest psi before leaving efficiency range on the T-25) and never hit fuel cut. So I beleive you can also run 17psi on the T-28. I could run 15-17psi on a 14b, and never did give my Evo III 16g time once it hit 15psi to hit fuel cut. So you should be perfectly fine on the amount of psi that you want to run on that turbo. I was on factory fuel pump, lines, rails, and injectors.

You need to learn more about these cars before you make this kind of recommendation to other owners.

Fuel cut has NOTHING to do with hitting a limit of the fuel system. Fuel cut is a safety net built into the ECU for a failed WGA. If you exceed too much ****airflow**** the ECU cuts fuel (hence, "fuel cut").

To find out if you're pushing your fuel system past its limits, you have to look at O2v or IDC.

To recap, fuel cut has nothing to do with identifying rich vs. lean. It just makes sure a stock setup doesn't get blown up because the WG failed an you have no boost control.

15psi is the typical limit on stock fuel before you start leaning out. But the smart owners get a logger and make sure they're safe before they turn the boost up at all. I recommend you get a logger before increasing boost. Then you can log 3rd gear pulls and watch your O2v. A wideband would be better, but many do it with a narrowband (stock) front O2 sensor.

As far as not being able to build boost, make sure you have your MBC hooked up correctly and that the setup and adjustment for a bleeder-style vs. ball-spring unit is different.

 

[dsm1212]

i do have a logger thats why i asked if i was running lean or rich someone told me not to log my 02 on a logger because it was not going to be accurate but instead to log my stft. so thats what i did. i was asking if it was bad that my stft is at -5 at wot at 15psi?