2g 6bolt swap Turbocharger Waste Gate Solenoid Broken Nipple Advice?

[Trelisong]

I just about finished my 6bolt swap on my 2g and I was going to start it up once before I put in dsmlink, I figured better to hear it run so I dont have to guess weather or not the problem is link or the car. Then after i run it once Ill hook up dsmlink and set the timing.

I found one of the lines to the Turbocharger Waste Gate Solenoid Loose.

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I am pretty sure it goes to the intake box air line, at this broken nipple, am i correct? if so what do you think I should do? Was wondering if maybe I could just plug this one with a screw and feed it vacuum someplace else, or does the vacuum source need to be from that specific spot.

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[MrBoxx]

That's where that hose goes, all right. Now what should you do with it? I say, plug it up with some JB Weld or epoxy, then use a tee of the appropriate sizes and tee into the smaller of the two emissions hoses that also feed into the intake side. The emissions hoses are going to be larger than the BCS hose, so the tee you use will have to be larger on two ends and smaller on one, obviously. I've seen such tees in some auto parts stores. Your best bet would be to bring in both hoses (or short sections of both) to get the right size tee.

 

[Trelisong]

Sounds Like a plan, I will pick up a T fitting tomorrow.

 

[kenamond]

I can think of a few solutions. That broken nipple is the return line from the stock bleeder-style boost controller. Here are some options:

1) Drill out the broken nipple and tap it for a hardware store brass nipple...or just JB-weld the nipple in. Then connect the vaccuum line back to the nipple.

2) Get an aftermarket ball-spring MBC. Then you can just block the broken nipple with some RTV or a screw or JB-weld, etc. The aftermarket MBC won't use that nipple.

3) Block the broken nipple as in #2 and run a vaccuum line straight from the compressor outlet nipple to the WGA nipple. This will limit you to around 9psi boost but will be essentially free.

4) Block the broken nipple and leave the vaccuum line hanging. The bleeder boost controller normally dumps the bled air back into the intake tract so that the air, which has been metered already by the MAS, stays in the system. But it may not make any noticeable difference.

Whatever you do, make sure you don't leave that intake pipe nipple open. That part of the intake is under vaccuum at all times, and since it's downwind of the MAS, the air that is sucked in through that hole will not be metered. More air will get to the motor than the ECU expects, and you'll run a bit lean under load.

I think #1 or #2 are the better solutions. #1 puts it back to the stock setup. #2 is what everyone else on this forum has probably already done (although most of us either upgraded our intake or put a nipple cap on that nipple when we got the aftermarket MBC). #2 also lets you increase boost...just make sure you do it safely.

 

[evileclipse909]

^^^^What he said. Go with #2. Plug the pipe and just run a mbc inline with the solinoid and the nipple on the comp. housing.

 

[Trelisong]

Well right now I have the 16g, not sure if its a small or big 16g, but its a 16g i can tell from the blades in the housing, and I am still running the 450cc injectors.. I know this is an awful Idea but its the only good turbo I have, the 1g donor car had this in it and only had 450s when I bought it.

I have dsmlink and an aftermarket boost gauge so I will just keep an eye on my boost and IDC. I also am going to do the fuel pump rewire, I already have the relay and wire for it, just haven't hooked it up yet.

My point is that I dont really want to have any fun with the boost until I get some more money at which points a new pump, AFPR, and injectors are in order.

 

[Trelisong]

I am actually really liking this idea at the moment:

3) Block the broken nipple as in #2 and run a vaccuum line straight from the compressor outlet nipple to the WGA nipple. This will limit you to around 9psi boost but will be essentially free.

being limited to around 9psi would probably be a good thing for me at the moment until I get the supporting fuel mods that I need.

 

[snowborder714]

Here's how to tell which 16g you have:

Look at the serial number on the compressor housing.

49178-01520 Small 16G
49178-01420 Big 16G
49178-01470 EVOIII 16G