Can't get timing belt tensioner in spec

[greddy_1700]

Hey, I know it is very important to have the clearance of the timing belt tensioner in spec, to .15-.18" i believe. However, I have followed the VFAQ on how to change a 2g timing belt (car is a 98 spyder gst) and the tensioner is still extended way to far. It is supposed to be 4.5mm Max, mine is over 12mm... I used the tool on the pulley and turned it by 2.6ft lb's like it recommends also.

Anyone else have any idea's, I have tried redoing the timing belt tensioner pulley's specs and positions 4 times now....

 

[pj91gsx]

Is this a used tensioner? I personally have never messed with the tensioner before when reseting timing, I just clamp it dont throw a pin in it and bolt it in and later release it when Im done. Maybe Im doing something wrong the whole time but the cars I have done it on havent failed yet.

This is for a 1g btw.

 

[greddy_1700]

It is a new tensioner, however the old pulley.

 

[gorf]

extended 12 MM???? EVERY new tensioner that I have seen came with a pin through it - no way it could be that far extended. Where did you buy this? did it have a pin through it?

here is the way I do it.
Warning this is not a recommended procedure - use at you own risk.

In the tensioner there is a hole where a pin goes all the way through. If you buy a new tensioner it comes with a pin in it. When you take the tensioner out you generally put a pin in it to keep it in place.

If you look in your manual one of the spec's they give is a measurement of where the tensioner should be. I have always used a set of feeler gauges to check and adjust the pulley until those spec's are met. My observation is that the gap is right about the same spot as being able to slip the pin in. Put a pin in through the tensioner, or if new tensioner leave the pin in, snug the compression tool to the tensioner, tighten the timing belt up against the tensioner, I use a bent tool that I can push against one hole on the pulley - push hard, and tighten the pulley bolt. With the tool compress the tensioner just enough to get the pin out and slowly back out the compression tool. if you see the tensioner move much at all, tighten the compression tool and try again.

Always double check the gap, turn the engine over by hand a couple times and check again!

 

[romeen]

Keep rotating the tensioner pulley (tightening) until the holding pin in the auto tensioner becomes loose. I don't have a torque wrench that reads that small but I can tell you that I definitely had to apply more than 2.6 ft/lbs of torque to get enough tension on the belt. Also remember that when you tighten the tensioner pulley center bolt it will rotate the pulley CW, slightly loosening the belt tension (opposite for 1G).

 

[greddy_1700]

Ok, well I have gone through the steps of replacing everything. I took the pin out already as the VFAQ said, then went on with the rest of the procedure, now it is extended to far and wont go back in on its own... I have a feeling the belt needs to come off and I have to redo it again...

 

[romeen]

Have you tried using the tensioner tool (long bolt)?

If you don't have that then you can remove the auto tensioner and compress it in a vice. Just compress it very slowly as described in vfaq. If you do this clamp the belt at the cam gears so things don't slip when you remove tension. Then go ahead and loosen the pulley and unbolt the auto tensioner. After you get the pin back in leave it in until the belt is tensioned. Like I said before, keep rotating the pulley until the pin becomes loose, then secure the pulley.

 

[pj91gsx]

Compress it and put the pin back in, only take it out when your done. I never use a timing tool btw and timing is always perfect for me.

 

[greddy_1700]

Just thought I would let everyone know I got it back in spec. I just had to redo a few things, loosened the belt right off and started over for a fifth time. I guess I must have missed something the first four times but its all good now.

Thanks everyone.