[RESOLVED] Biss screw part number [Merged 8-8]

[forcedfedgsx]

where can i get a new BISS screw, part # would prob help i would rather go to auto zone but if i have to get it from a dealer then tell me

 

[DSM90AWD]

I spent an hour at my dealor trying to find a replacement BISS on CAPS to no avail. MachV has them for $6.

-John

 

[forcedfedgsx]

thanks, anyone know of a easier way...a screw with an o ring or something that will fit

 

[DSM90AWD]

whatever you want to do.. just remember.. if you strip the BISS hole with your g-rigged screw.. you'll be shopping for a new TB.. which is alot more than $6.

-John

 

[forcedfedgsx]

actually ill just buy one its only 6 bucks like u said but thanks for the link..now i have to see what else i will buy minimum purchase of ten bucks

 

[iamshaked]

.....

 

[Mytrn2brn]

Hey guys just to ease my mind here's a my TB. Is there suppose to be a hose or a cap over that hole. I can't recall and that's the only spot so far that bubble when I do the test.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Yes. In that hole is the BISS (base idle set screw), it is a metering "screw" with an o-ring around it for a seal. It also came with a cap for covering the hole when new, but not necessarily required. Fixing the o-ring should reveal additional leaks.

A search for BISS screw should net a wealth of information as to the size of the o-ring and how to re-install it when done.

 

[Mytrn2brn]

I thought something looked funny. could this missing screw and be the cause of my issue, Maybe not because the car idle right at 750 rpm were it should, and my problem start when i try to boost. What do you guys think?

BTW the screw, o-ring, and cap should be here tomorrow along with my boost gauge.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

It actually looks like the screw is still in there, but the o-ring is probably trash. Of course a new BISS is cheap enough though.

Yes it is part of the problem. Just do not assume that this is the only leak. After you replace the BISS, retest as I'm quite sure you will find additional leaks afterward.

 

[TSIMonsteR]

You can get the BISS, Oring, and cap for cheap enough. If you use the cap, it helps the life of the oring tremendously.

Here is some linkage:

http://www.jnztuning.com/catalog/ad...Csid=8a2d1b6fc879f0688f70acb6a38b2567&x=0&y=0

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/search.php?substring=BISS

 

[DSMunknown]

Use the cap if you like, but I simply put a little bit of black RTV silicone in the hole, let it dry, and called it a day.

 

[TSIMonsteR]

I have found that without the use of the cap the rubber o-ring drys up and cracks much sooner. If you like boost leaks though.... by all means

 

[Splitpi]

I hope someone mentioned this, but you don't want to be blowing 125 psi into the turbo inlet as you may blow a seal or something on the turbo, turn it down to ~ 30 psi.

 

[DSMunknown]

I have found that without the use of the cap the rubber o-ring drys up and cracks much sooner. If you like boost leaks though.... by all means

So what? As long as the BISS hole is plugged up, I see no reason to worry about an old o-ring (or wasting time trying to find one that fits).

 

[Mytrn2brn]

Hey guys does anyone know the part number for a BISS for a 95 GSX, I'm not sure if i got the right one form the dealer, said there were Like three different ones. I told them Part#MD614948 (found this in one of these BISS threads)but when i tried to install it, i pretty much ate up the plastic head and didn't what to use it so i ordered another. It seemed like it just didn't want to turn down into the hole.

Thanks for all the help

BTW the old one was a royal pain to get out in fact i had to drill the thing out them pressurize the system to blow out all the shavings, but i'm pretty sure i got it all out.

 

[DSMunknown]

Hey guys does anyone know the part number for a BISS for a 95 GSX, I'm not sure if i got the right one form the dealer, said there were Like three different ones. I told them Part#MD614948 (found this in one of these BISS threads)but when i tried to install it, i pretty much ate up the plastic head and didn't what to use it so i ordered another. It seemed like it just didn't want to turn down into the hole.

Thanks for all the help

BTW the old one was a royal pain to get out in fact i had to drill the thing out them pressurize the system to blow out all the shavings, but i'm pretty sure i got it all out.

MD615958 - base idle set screw (BISS)
MD614948 - BISS screw
MD614150 - BISS rubber cap
MD608806 - BISS o-ring (#5)

 

[Mytrn2brn]

Ok there are two part numbers for the screw itself

MD615958 - base idle set screw (BISS)
MD614948 - BISS screw

Which one is for a 95 GSX or will both work, and if so is one of these metal?

Thanx

 

[Mytrn2brn]

I guess no one knows the answer to this one?

Thanks anyway

 

[Shane2GSX]

Not to highjack, but I just got the parts in to replace this in my car..

Does the O-Ring go into the hole under the screw where the little lip sits out towards the bottom? I hope so, b/c that's where I put it..

 

[FORMONTOYA]

The o-ring goes around the screw in the "slot" just under the screw head.

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[Shane2GSX]

Oops.. guess I'll be pulling that out..

thx..

 

[Rice Over Wheat]

Why does anyone need a part number for this? Just go to your mits dealer and as for the TB adjustment screw. He'll sell you that and the o-ring for $3. I did this a few days ago.

 

[b00st_catalyst]

The ass-clown on here that sold me a 1st gen throttle body should be tar'd and feather'd. I get my idle right yesterday and go for a test ride at stock boost....POW something hits my hood and my car runs like poo.....the STRIPPED ASS BISS SCREW BLEW OUT. What a cockknocker.

 

[RoasT BeeF]

Is it the actual hole that is stripped or maybe just the screw itself? Or perhaps the O-ring was just missing from the screw? I would recommend trying a new screw and O-ring. BISS screw part # is MD614948, O-ring part # MD608806 or 3/8x1/4x1/16, available at most hardware stores.