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My new project '91 talon AWD

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vaboys2ndgen

15+ Year Contributor
1,126
0
Jan 5, 2005
Fredericksburg, Virginia
Sold my DD civic coupe and thought i was getting into an awesome deal until i got on the road heading home with this talon. noticed a change in the way the car drove performance wise, finally got it home around midnight and the car was soo damn hot i had no choice but to allow the turbo timer to run the full 10 and half mins. LOL. after that was done i checked the upper radiator hose and it was still very very hot.

issues so far:

1. coolant problem, thermostat? radiator cap? figure i'd replace the easy stuff to save the hassle.
2. oil leaking inbetween the motor and the firewall, you can smell and see the burning smoke coming from behind there and that where its leaking on the ground also. have not yet gotten underneath the car to pinpoint it but plan on it this week.
3. passenger side window is inoperable right now. if you put it down theres a chance you may not get it back up, luckily we got the automatic window and a pull of the window itself to raise it and close all the way!
4. No tuning software at all with all the mods that are on this car i can see why the 1st motor may have blew.
5. 2G maf with stock injectors and no way to tune the car.
6. 255 fuel pump, have yet to verify, no way to control fuel with stock injectors.

Mods so far:

tial bov
fmic with all IC piping welded together to limit couplers
evo3 16g internally gated
cyclone motor
o2 housing has dump tube coming off it
aftermarket downpipe Dungeon Custom Downpipe?
aftermarket catback system thats way to loud!!!
blue top 450cc injectors
walbro 255HP fuel pump def has that whine to it
non oem fuel rail unsure of which kind
auxilary fan was replaced and it hardwire to a flip switch inside the car. . .
Shepherd Stage 1 transmission IS there a marking on the shep trans to prove what it is?
Katana SKR wheels 17x8
greddy turbo timer
greddy EBC boost controller I do need to read up on this i have never used on, i'm a joe p fan!

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here's a few random video clips: i didnt have anyone to help with the video taping and i'm sorry haha.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/....htm?ref=6cffe47e-f564-486c-9943-9ad7012eee7a

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/....htm?ref=6cffe47e-f564-486c-9943-9ad7012eee7a

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/....htm?ref=6cffe47e-f564-486c-9943-9ad7012eee7a
 

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maft works very well i have the maft pro and love it. easy to tune and at wot it has a/f tracking that keeps it between your setting. its nice for the money
 
that thing looks AWESOME...damn why not MEEEE...that hks carbon ti muffler is beautiful...id have one if they didnt cost 300 for JUST THE MUFFLER. in any event, sounds to me like all you need is an eprom and tuned chip to get it to run right...find and plug that oil leak and you have a nice lil car there buddy haha

good luck and good pickup
 
ps - i dont like electronic boost controllers. From what I've read, and its never happened so I cant say its been first hadn for me, but guys have said those solenoids can go bad, end up over boosting and BOOM...no more turbo and possibly no more motor...when it comes to anything on my car, tuning, or upgrades, or whatever, i try to go straight for the source so to say, mechanical boost controller and chipped EPROM(i'd have dsmlink if i knew wtf i was doing) just for a couple of examples...
 
Is that BOV vented while running the 2G MAS?

Yes Yes it is. i've only had the car since friday night.

maft works very well i have the maft pro and love it. easy to tune and at wot it has a/f tracking that keeps it between your setting. its nice for the money
I have 3" gm maf and Translator for my 2G brand new but i have to check i think the translators are different between 1G and 2Gs. Anyone confirm that also?

that thing looks AWESOME...damn why not MEEEE...that hks carbon ti muffler is beautiful...id have one if they didnt cost 300 for JUST THE MUFFLER. in any event, sounds to me like all you need is an eprom and tuned chip to get it to run right...find and plug that oil leak and you have a nice lil car there buddy haha

good luck and good pickup
Its way to freakin loud for me. If you want it shoot me a PM and i'll cut get it cut off so i can weld up my 3" magnaflow that i had on my 2G that i absolutely loved! Plan on going under the car today clean up the engine bay some of oil and see if i can find the leak(s). also going to see about maybe doing a boost leak test also.

clean looking car. I got a cheap ebay look alike carbon fiber tip LOL nice
I bought one of those a while back for my '03 tiburon actually sounded pretty good for something off ebay that was nonamed ha


Thanks for all the input and comments guys!

I got a couple PMs about plans from friends and people i've met at the dsm shootout last year or around the area. Pretty much the setup i was going to use in my 2G is going now into this car. I plan on selling my 2G as a shell, selling the IPT trans and 3800 stall converter that raped my bank account, along with anything else thats brand new (which is about $25-27k worth of parts laying around) but if parts will work on the 1G they will be in there sometime this year haha.

So if your looking for anything for a 2G thats aftermarket i may have some parts that are brand new for you. ok bad plug i know MODS i'm sorry haha.


2.3l
9.0:1 wiseco pistons
eagle Hbeam rods
manley valvetrain
yada yada yada yada the whole nine yards except the kitchen sink.
hta88
FP4r camshafts
 
Just drained the oil and found 1 leak so far. need to go pick up some degreaser or something to clean up most of the oil thats everywhere under the car and motor and trans to check for more. any suggestions?!

here's a few photos so far:

Need NEW oil dipstick
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This looks like shit
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I found some of my oil
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Still gotta check it out to see what is on the car but i like it whatever it is
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Oil sending unit wires
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anybody have a photo so i can compare what this should def look like.
 

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got it. going to take it off since i drain the oil and try and get all that rtv off and see what i have to work with then. . . guesses on if the pan is jacked up?! LOL
 
Well from what i can tell is that the 16g turbo seems to be the cheap ebay knock off one, since it has an adjustable waste gate arm, but to be 100% sure just check the serial number on the turbo itself and see if it matches the original 16g. I would be careful with all those oil leaks and make sure that none of it is coming from the transfer case or the trans because that could be dangerous (if you are driving the car on a daily basis). Btw all the shep trans are given a serial number to them when rebuild so their company can keep track of their builds, so look for that number on the trans somewhere. Other wise the car looks clean and rust free so good luck.
 
Well from what i can tell is that the 16g turbo seems to be the cheap ebay knock off one, since it has an adjustable waste gate arm, but to be 100% sure just check the serial number on the turbo itself and see if it matches the original 16g. I would be careful with all those oil leaks and make sure that none of it is coming from the transfer case or the trans because that could be dangerous (if you are driving the car on a daily basis). Btw all the shep trans are given a serial number to them when rebuild so their company can keep track of their builds, so look for that number on the trans somewhere. Other wise the car looks clean and rust free so good luck.

thanks for the heads up on the shep serial number i'll make sure to look. Just an update, i'm waiting for dsmtuner wiseman Keith Brown to post his opinion on team-trinity.com/forums about the car. Turbo is def. not a Mitsubishi 16G it has about 1" of in and out play and slight side to side play i took the IC piping off that goes to the Jpipe and there was a good amount of oil enough that when i pulled out the IC pipe it spill all over me, LOL, was pissed! but the car is nowhere near worth what i paid for it with a turbo that is done due to improper prime

Going to work it out with the guy i bought the car from he seems to be cool about everything. And me and him will work on a compromise of getting back some kinda of deal to get the car to what its worth as it sits.

thinking $2500 at most is what this car is worth not $4000. which is what i paid him...cash.
And your mouth makes nice compliments

that is does!
 
So as of right now:

Oil was drained
Coolant was drained
IC piping that matches to the Jpipe was taken off the car
oem intake pipe/filter/2g maf was removed
oil return line was removed from the oil pan and taped up so nothing can get inside the pan

my driveway has alot of oil on it, parents are complaing about that, along with the coolant too!

fun times.
 
Written by keith 92awddsm
Get the tune, timing, boost leaks,and biss corrected before replacing the isc. Ive seen several people replace an isc without taking care of other problems and still had the same idle surge.

The oil pressure switch wire is the one that is yellowish with the white connector, actually, the only one intact. This connects to the oil pressure switch on the front of the oil filter housing, just below the alternator. This is for the oil light only, not the gauge. The other wire should be green but it is hard to tell from the pics since it is mangled. That one should be connected to the bell shaped oil pressure sending unit on the bottom of the oil filter housing, just below and in front of the harmonic balancer.

The manifold is a stock 1g, not a HAFE. The HAFE looks like this.
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And as we already know, you have a knockoff, ebay evo 3, not a real one. On top of that, we know it is blown beyond repair so its not even usable junk.

The oil leaks look to be mostly from the oil return which isnt surprising. Was it you or Ronnie that had a major leak from the return line because the bolts on the return line at the turbo were too long to screw in all the way and tighten the line? Well, You get the idea.
Also, it may just be the pics but some of the leakage looks green which would point me in the direction of a coolant leak also.

The radiator is still black plastic, it is stock or stock replacement, not a racing radiator.

The fpr shown in the for sale pic is an aftermarket but what you got with the car is stock, as seen in the first video.

As already stated, the jdm cams are nothing near being 264's. I would guess that they are nothing larger than stock. Depending on which jdm car the engine came out of, its a good possibility that they are the same or smaller than 92-93 usdm turbo cams. Regardless of what the engine came out of, if it is a 6 bolt, there is no difference other than cams, injectors, and turbo. in this case, it doesnt have yellow top injectors or a real 16g so Im betting that it is just a run of the mill, stock equivilent to the us engine. All jdm means is that they were run harder, unmaintained, and put away wetter than our stock engines.

The oil feed and return are not sbr parts. Period. The feed is stock and the return is something either from ebay or pieced together.

Im sure the head is as stock as the rest of the engine. If the head was pulled and had stainless valves installed, the seller would have installed arp studs and a mls gasket. If these were done, he would have used those as a selling point also.

At this point, I would question whether it has a shep tranny and 2600 clutch. Does the clutch feel as heavy as what I have in my car?

IMHO, I would have not even bought the car. To me, it is just a clean body that needs a mechanical rebuild. I personally wouldnt pay over $1000 for it. In fair market value, given that it came with an unblown turbo, it would be work somewhere around $2k to the average, unknowing enthusiast. Knock $400 of of that to purchase a turbo to make it driveable so it is realistically worth only $1500-1600.

If you were buying a driver that needs nothing, looks good, and runs well, that would be worth $4k. With what you got, it is nothing but a project that needs not only tlc but a lot of repair. There is no way it is worth that much. My 93 was at least that clean and only needed a shortblock and clutch. After that was done, I still had less than 1k tied up in the whole car.
 
wow, that thing is sexy, but get some type of tuning method asap, AND GET A RECURCULATED BLOW OFF VALVE. that could cause your car to idle all crappy and sometimes die. if its a cyclone motor, where is the cyclone intake manifold? did the old owner remove it? just flush the whole motor and transmission, do a compression test and the whole 9 yards. if thats your daily driver make it so it can be daily drivin.
 
At this point it would take about $1000 or more to get it back running as a daily. . . which i think is crap since i paid $4000 for the car with a blown turbo.

compression test needs to be done on the motor, but as it sits im looking at getting alot of cash back from him for this car, since he already bought a truck. basically i bought a shell with a motor in it. . . this is lame!
 
At this point it would take about $1000 or more to get it back running as a daily. . . which i think is crap since i paid $4000 for the car with a blown turbo.

compression test needs to be done on the motor, but as it sits im looking at getting alot of cash back from him for this car, since he already bought a truck. basically i bought a shell with a motor in it. . . this is lame!

Dude, you dont know what saving a dsm is right? that car is in neat condition compared to my 1g when i bought it. The car looks pretty good, and the problems like oil leaks, vented bov, couple wire hacks, etc, is just plain stupid not to fix... Talk to me when you have a complete melted engine harness, bad tps, bad ISC, a bad throttle body, a block with bad cylinder walls, a .050 shaved crank, a head milled below specs, no turn signal lights, no power steering, no parking lights and i can go on... i had all those problems in my car and i´ve been slowly fixing them, and im still driving it.
 
i have another DSM with 27k worth of parts, and for this car for $4000 thats def a rip off.

The car is not driveable at all thats the whole point!
 
Today:
Def. need another set of hands or break a wrench if half thats not mine to begin with to get to one of the downpipe/o2 housing bolts what a pain in the ass it is to get that off. got the manifold off the car, turbo is only on the car by a water line that i cant get off due to not having that size wrench/socket and also 1 of the o2 housing bolts is still in place.

the overflow bottle looks like absolute shit i have dumped it yet cause i wanna try and get video or a photo of what the overflow bottle caught inside of it. lets just say its not clear water, coolant, but maybe shit brown liquid. manifold is a china made manifold thats not worth a damn thing. more restrictive than a 1G oem manifold.

photos will be up shortly and a video of the shaft play in the 16g turbo that came on the car.
 
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