Running rich, inconsistent idle and AFR

[tomlaw]

The AFR jumps around sometimes running rich and sometimes regular, 14-13 AFR

OK so i get my car back finally and its running perfectly. I notice that I need to tie my battery down do not because I am stupid and lazy. Long story short electricity arced through the rubber piece on positive terminal and terminal connectors are shot. I put on new terminal connectors, jerry rigged rubber piece to stop positive side from arcing and I tie down battery with like a 100 bungie cords (more like 4) so it won't move around at all.

Here's the problem, now its running rich, why? Adam at Devotuning set it to about 14 AFR and it was running perfectly, now it hovers around 13-11 AFR like 65% of the time even at idle. Sometimes it goes back to normal though. Checked for boost leaks, I think Wideband O2 sensor is fine and 2g MAF is fine and I'm getting good voltage according to the SAFC II 13-14V though it seems as if it somewhat steadily drops as I drive (not much though). All my Hi settings are correct (at 80% throttle) but not sure about my Low settings (at 30% throttle) as I didn't copy them down but I think they are correct.

I was thinking about cleaning the battery terminals because they are a bit dirty and black from the previous voltage spikes and connectors. What should I use to clean them? Any other suggestions?

 

[JDMath]

what do you use to tune?? safc?? and what is you wideband maybe its not correctly calibrated??

 

[kenamond]

Please fill out your profile including mods.

At idle and in closed loop, the ECU should be holding AFR at stoich based on front O2v. I'm no WBO2 guru, but if the WBO2 replaced the front O2 sensor, maybe there's a problem with the voltage it's putting out. I believe the ECU is striving for a value that oscillates above/below 0.5v which holds the AFR at 14.7 and the ECU will add/remove fuel at idle/low load until the voltage fluctuates like that. If you can log your fuel trims at idle and they look majorly fuxed, it might be either the WBO2 voltage is not the same as the stock O2 or that you your AFC lo settings are off. I've also heard that if your system voltage is low, the ECU will "misbehave" rather than not work at all. If your battery is jerry rigged, why not get a new battery? They're not free of course, but it sounds like yours has some issues.

P.S. Fill out your profile

 

[tomlaw]

what do you use to tune?? safc?? and what is you wideband maybe its not correctly calibrated??

SAFC II. Wideband is calibrated correctly, just got it back from shop 2 weeks ago. Things didn't start messing up until the battery disconnected

 

[tomlaw]

Please fill out your profile including mods.

At idle and in closed loop, the ECU should be holding AFR at stoich based on front O2v. I'm no WBO2 guru, but if the WBO2 replaced the front O2 sensor, maybe there's a problem with the voltage it's putting out. I believe the ECU is striving for a value that oscillates above/below 0.5v which holds the AFR at 14.7 and the ECU will add/remove fuel at idle/low load until the voltage fluctuates like that. If you can log your fuel trims at idle and they look majorly fuxed, it might be either the WBO2 voltage is not the same as the stock O2 or that you your AFC lo settings are off. I've also heard that if your system voltage is low, the ECU will "misbehave" rather than not work at all. If your battery is jerry rigged, why not get a new battery? They're not free of course, but it sounds like yours has some issues.

P.S. Fill out your profile

Battery voltage is good, overall voltage is good and my AFC Lo settings are probably off a bit which the shop said they would reprgram/retune for free