Coolant bubbling in over flow, questions.

[The_EE]

Coolant starts to bubble in the over flow and pushes out. Happens when not in boost and after I go into boost., quicker when I get into boost.

Things that I have done to remedy the situation.

1:Replaced Thermostat.
2:Replaced Radiator cap.
3:Used Ultraviolet dye in system and pressurized
3a:Replaced Heater lines ( they were from 97 and Leaked when pressurized )
3b:Replaced lower radiator line ( Leaked when pressurized )
4:Switched radiators
5:Checked torque on ARP's and they all check out at 90 tf lbs
6:Checked compression, 180-180-180-180
7:Exhaust gas in coolant test came back clean
8:No oil in coolant
9:No coolant in oil
10:No smell of coolant in exhaust

I didnt replace the water pump since it was relatively low mileage on the old motor.

So only thing left is Water pump right?

I am getting ready to upgrade to 1600cc injectors and a gt3582r and I want to get this taken care of before I put an expensive water cooled turbo on the car .

Mods are listed down below. Engine has approx 650 miles on it.

97 GSX:Ross/Eagle combo,7-bolt block,JMFab 1g race SMIM, Fluidampnr,FIC 950's, Aeromotive AFPR,1g CnC ported head, 272's,1g TB,TD06H-20g,DSMLINK,3" Turbo Back N1, FP 4" Intake,AEM WB,Clutchmasters S5 4 puck unsprung Clutch,GReddy UICP & FMIC,5 Speed swapped,Eibach Prokit,RRE & Ingalls C-kits,Tial WG,Punishment Mani/o2, Findezza Cam gears -3* Exhaust +1* Intak

[Staytuned]

Headgasket my friend.

[The_EE]

Originally Posted by Staytuned

Headgasket my friend.

Dont think that is the problem.

ARP's check out
Compression checks out.
No exhaust gas in coolant.
No oil in coolant
No coolant in oil
No smell of coolant in exhaust

None of the signs point to that.

[99gsxsex]

Cracked headgasket??? Takes a while to heat up and expand and thats when it happens

[The_EE]

Originally Posted by 99gsxsex

Cracked headgasket??? Takes a while to heat up and expand and thats when it happens

But still, none of the test show a head gasket as being the problem. I dont see how I would have perfect compression etc with a bad head gasket and all the other tests dont point to it either.

[bluegs03]

I know you dont think its the headgasket but think about it.
you have air escaping into the cooling system this is because air from the cylinders is getting into the coolant passages in the engine block. There are only 2 ways of this happening, through the headgasket or the block or cylinder head cracking enough to let air escape into the coolant passages.

The only other possibility is if you have a vacume line attached to the coolant system that is getting boost?

Heres a thought: what is the problem? If its just pushing out excess coolant then thats ok, is this causing you any problems beside being annoying? If not then just check the coolant levels occassionally and move on

[KDub]

headgasket, im sorry to say....

[Artago]

I have the same problem and I have a newly built motor with a cometic HG and ARP head studs. How can a HG be cracked on a new motor?

[The_EE]

Originally Posted by bluegs03

I know you dont think its the headgasket but think about it.
you have air escaping into the cooling system this is because air from the cylinders is getting into the coolant passages in the engine block. There are only 2 ways of this happening, through the headgasket or the block or cylinder head cracking enough to let air escape into the coolant passages.

The only other possibility is if you have a vacume line attached to the coolant system that is getting boost?

Heres a thought: what is the problem? If its just pushing out excess coolant then thats ok, is this causing you any problems beside being annoying? If not then just check the coolant levels occassionally and move on

Its causing me to over heat during extended drives ( about 20 minutes ). I can city drive all I want with no problems. Then again, my city driving isnt all that much, its a small freaking town.

If air was getting into the cooling system from the engine, it would show some sort of hydrocarbons in the coolant and the test that was run, was done 5 times and not one test showed a hint of exhaust in the coolant. I guess its entirely possible that the head is somehow lifting enough to let air in from outside yet not allowing anything to pass via the cylinders but it seems pretty unlikely.

There is no way that a vac line is hooked up to anything doing with cooling system, I have all unnecessary vac sources removed.

What signs to I look for when I burp the system to see if the water pump is going out? There is no liquid coming from the weep hole. I did notice that after I burped the system, that the water kind of pushes out the top of the water neck until the thermostat opens but no bubbles really came out as I fully burped it before I started the car.

[Bubbs Malone]

It sounds like you have been thorough, I would check for leaks in your hoses. I found these cars heat up quick with the slightest leak. If you steam some water off, air is getting into the system that way. I wouldn't rule out heater core. Good luck, I went through the head gasket trouble, no fun.

[toojung2die]

I recently read a similar thread on the DSMlink forums. It turned out to be a cracked cylinder wall. It didn't show on a leak down test. Coolant cavitation thinned the cylinder wall to the point where it cracked.

[The_EE]

Originally Posted by toojung2die

I recently read a similar thread on the DSMlink forums. It turned out to be a cracked cylinder wall. It didn't show on a leak down test. Coolant cavitation thinned the cylinder wall to the point where it cracked.

Yeah I read your thread, I remember that,

I dont think its anything to do with any cracks in the block, block checked out fine before I assembled the motor.

I am just going to order a OEM Waterpump ( as the one on the car is not OEM ) and a head gasket and just do both at the same time so I dont leave the last two stones unturned.

What I will most likely do is this, replace the water pump and see if that solves my problem, if it doesnt then I will pull the head and replace the head gasket. I dont have the cast to get the engine o-ringed as I am currently unemployed and really, dont know of any shops local to me that could do the work. I am new to my area and there really isnt a whole lot around.

Moved from So Cal to Misery ( Missouri )

[The_EE]

Originally Posted by Bubbs Malone

It sounds like you have been thorough, I would check for leaks in your hoses. I found these cars heat up quick with the slightest leak. If you steam some water off, air is getting into the system that way. I wouldn't rule out heater core. Good luck, I went through the head gasket trouble, no fun.

I've replaced all but the upper radiator hose and when I switched radiators I used a different hose.

[ontario AWD]

Throw a little rad stop leak in there till you get back to work.If it temporarily fixes the problem,you know it's the head

[The_EE]

Originally Posted by ontario AWD

Throw a little rad stop leak in there till you get back to work.If it temporarily fixes the problem,you know it's the head

I would sooner not use any of that stuff.

Ill just do the pump and then head gasket after that, I dont mind the work, gives me something to do

Cant ever have enough experience in pulling and replacing stuff anyways.

[Staytuned]

I just can't imagine it's anything else other that the head gasket with what you have described..... and with your list of things you have replaced.

[Blindsey]

I can't believe no one has asked this. How large of a fan are you running? When i switched to a 10 inch slim fan my car would over heat after 20 minutes or so. I jimmy rigged my stock fan back in and the slimline and i am fine now. Oh i also run royal purple ICE.

[The_EE]

I have a 10" slim, was running that, when I put in the replacement radiator from my GST, I was running the 2g fan and same issue so its not a fan problem.

I may try torquing down the head studs a little more, bring them up to 100 to see if that solves anything.

[dsmmatt28]

When car is idle and at normal temp and you pop rad cap off, If coolant is not poping out then it is not getting into the cylinder. What about replacing your rad.

[The_EE]

Originally Posted by dsmmatt28

When car is idle and at normal temp and you pop rad cap off, If coolant is not poping out then it is not getting into the cylinder. What about replacing your rad.

Things that I have done to remedy the situation.

1:Replaced Thermostat.
2:Replaced Radiator cap.
3:Used Ultraviolet dye in system and pressurized
3a:Replaced Heater lines ( they were from 97 and Leaked when pressurized )
3b:Replaced lower radiator line ( Leaked when pressurized )
4:Switched radiators
5:Checked torque on ARP's and they all check out at 90 tf lbs
6:Checked compression, 180-180-180-180
7:Exhaust gas in coolant test came back clean
8:No oil in coolant
9:No coolant in oil
10:No smell of coolant in exhaust

[dsmmatt28]

What are your temps. I think that replace the water pump like you say see if that works. Looks like you have done everything else other than pulling the head.

[93_tsi_fwd]

water pump? sounds like the waters not recirculation

[The_EE]

A log for you link guys down below.

Temps look fine, during the run and after words but when I stop the car and turn it off thats when the bubbling starts.

I was thinking water pump was not doing its thing but when the T-Stat opens, I can see water flowing.

[toojung2die]

Originally Posted by The_EE

A log for you link guys down below.

The coolant temp during that run comes no where near overheating. It shows a functioning cooling system. 200F is normal. I always hear coolant bubbling in the turbo after I shut the car off but it doesn't push coolant into the overflow bottle. Are you sure the radiator cap is the correct pressure?

[The_EE]

Originally Posted by toojung2die

The coolant temp during that run comes no where near overheating. It shows a functioning cooling system. 200F is normal. I always hear coolant bubbling in the turbo after I shut the car off but it doesn't push coolant into the overflow bottle. Are you sure the radiator cap is the correct pressure?

Positive. I have a OEM Cap straight from Mitsu. I have tried 5 different brands of caps.

[Bubbs Malone]

Again, check for leaks....

[toojung2die]

Originally Posted by The_EE

Positive. I have a OEM Cap straight from Mitsu. I have tried 5 different brands of caps.

Is it a 13+ psi radiator cap? It should be.

[The_EE]

Originally Posted by Bubbs Malone

Again, check for leaks....

Ill rent the tool to presurize the system tomorrow when I can cash my checks as the bank is closed.

Whats the highest I can test to?

[The_EE]

Originally Posted by toojung2die

Is it a 13+ psi radiator cap? It should be.

Yes it is, its a brand new OEM Mitsu Rad Cap, 13 psi and I pressure tested it as well and it held fine.

[The_EE]

Question.

Stock mitsu Head gasket on a engine .020 over.... Problem?

Seems Mitsu F'd up and gave me a stock gasket.