7 bolt rebuild thread

[clipse4u2c]

Well, I'm getting ready to start my 7 bolt rebuild. I'm thinking of possible making a vfac when i'm done on the assembly or anything else I think a vfac might be helpful. I just sent the block to the machine shop and had it tanked (even though I don't think it looks to great), freeze plugs, honed (didn't need bored thank goodness), micropolished crank and cleaned/inspected the rods and pistons. I'm planing on reuseing the 2g rods and pistons since it doesn't need bored. My parts list is as follows tell me what you think

OEM BSEK (MD040597,MD103722,MD092785, MD098626, MD128107) bought individually (its cheeper that way for some reason!)
Topline or OEM front case
ACL Race Rod/Main bearings from MAP
Leaving the oil squirters alone
Topline Waterpump from ext psi
OEM timing belt either from JNZ or individualy from dealer whichever is cheaper. does anybody have the tensioner part #
ARP Head Studs (207-4203)
Cometic MLS Head Gasket (arp+gasket kit from ext psi)
Punishment Racing radiator and fans
Megan 2.5-3" downpipe from JNZ
Removing all unneeded sensors ( from vfac 13.Fuel pressure sensor valve, 14. EGR, 18. Hood latch, 28. Theft Alarm, 30. Boost control, 35. Evap, 43. L fog, 44. R fog, 52. Fuel pump.
Topline, NPR, or OEM Rings (your thoughts?)
New Upper and both lower control arms for both sides
New tie rod ends
New rotors (I'll probalby go autozone or maybe brembos from tirerack)
160 T-stat from JNZ
Energy suspension motor mount inserts
Rebuild Non turbo 1g throttle body
Remove cruise
OEM Fuel Filter
I will abviously need some gaskets for the rebuild but haven't made a list yet
I will also be getting alot of parts powdercoated so it will be nice and pretty

What do you guys think. I'll hopefully be posting pics along the way but my camera broke so i'll have to get it fixed first.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Two things that came to mind first. The front case, always get the oem one. Just what i was told and read. Secondly, new control arms for both sides you will be paying out the ass for just to let you know. cheapest ive seen is 250 a side.

James

 

[clipse4u2c]

they have them on ebay for 240.00 shipped for all 6. the lower control arm ball joints are junk and my car has already had the recall.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Are you talking about the control arm, or a ball joint. Thats two different things. The control will cost you a lot, a ball joint wont.

James

 

[clipse4u2c]

the whole control arm w/ ball joints. I just bought this kit
eBay Motors: 6 Control Arm Eclipse Galant Sebring 95-99 BALL JOINT (item 130235041103 end time Jul-04-08 09:55:50 PDT)

I'll give you an update once it's installed!

 

[Jeff99GS]

Whoa thats a good deal for all of them! I paid 120 per side for my lower laterals from the dealer

 

[clipse4u2c]

yeah hopefully they work well. I'll let you know!

 

[tenn-gsx]

I have that set on my car. They are awsome! No issues and been running them for 6 months.

 

[BIGBLAZE79]

Sounds good so far. What about replacing the timing belt idler pulley as well. Man good luck staying on budget. When I did mine, I was going to do the same then ended up going all forged internals, cams, race valve springs. I must have went to the mitsubishi dealer 100 times. I swear they should give me a VIP card or something. If your pulling the head apart. I would order new orings for the injectors and fuel rail. Might as well be safe then sorry . Also maybe a new clutch disk while you got the tranny out. Good luck on the build. If you don't have the factory maint manuals I would suggest getting them.

 

[clipse4u2c]

Thanks I will be getting the idler pulley as well I'm getting the whole new kit just not sure on where i'm buying it from. I already have new injector seals I have already bought. As far as the head...the is one of the reason's i'm doing this. I had a bad leak at the injectors and found out it was because the guy that owned it before me had stripped a bolt on the fuel rail and put a helicoil in it but, since he tore up the head putting it in it wouldn't really hold any torque so I could never get the fuel rail tight hence the injectors leaking. I do need some help on what I should do with the head though. I'm thinking just a stock rebuilt 2g head. I think it should be ok for my goals. I have thought about a 1g but don't want to bother with the water lines. I'm not planning on cams at the moment but i'm sure i'll want them in the future just don't have the extra cash right now. From what i've read the stock head is ok for up to 272's?