Engine oil or assembly lube.

[packinkimber45]

Been reading up on engine assembly. I am replacing my bearings (main and rod) in my 6 bolt. The manual states to use engine oil on bearing face and journals. I've been reading to use assembly lube. Can you guys tell me which is better, pros and cons between the two? Also since I am replacing my oil pump/water pump/ main and rod bearings, is there any break in procedure I need to perform? Oil changes in between or anything? Thanks.

 

[Stainbox12]

I prefer assambly lube, just for the fact you work cleaner. Working with engine oil is fine too, but the only downside i´ve found is that it catches moisture pretty fast. Whatever you choose, make sure you do it in a very clean area, and you have plenty of unused white rags to clean surfaces. Regarding break in, it depends, you will have people saying to treat it slow, to not boost it, to cruise, etc. I do believe that if an engine is well assambled you can hammer it right away, and that´s what i do, when i build mine. Read this link, it might help you understand some facts. Good luck.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

[95mitseclipsegs]

I prefer assambly lube, just for the fact you work cleaner. Working with engine oil is fine too, but the only downside i´ve found is that it catches moisture pretty fast. Whatever you choose, make sure you do it in a very clean area, and you have plenty of unused white rags to clean surfaces. Regarding break in, it depends, you will have people saying to treat it slow, to not boost it, to cruise, etc. I do believe that if an engine is well assambled you can hammer it right away, and that´s what i do, when i build mine. Read this link, it might help you understand some facts. Good luck.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

Not trying to thread jack but, how many pulls(1 pull= 1 acceleration and 1 deceleration) do you make in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th before you switch between gears while breaking in the motor?

 

[Defiant]

Read this link, it might help you understand some facts. Good luck.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

Make that "facts". And, snoop through our merged thread:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...eak-merged-10-6-a.html?highlight=engine+break
The point is that break-in "secrets" probably haven't applied for about twenty years.

 

[97boostedTSI]

to the original poster.. i would use assembly lube. it sticks to parts better like previously stated.

 

[JaxTalonTSi]

Oil is way too thin to use as an assembly lubricant. Any good parts chain store like NAPA will carry good assembly lubes. I recall the one we used on our last engine build came in a blue tube, and the lubricant itself was white. Stuff worked great. We used it to pack the oil pump when priming as well.

 

[brute]

Oil is way too thin to use as an assembly lubricant. Any good parts chain store like NAPA will carry good assembly lubes. I recall the one we used on our last engine build came in a blue tube, and the lubricant itself was white. Stuff worked great. We used it to pack the oil pump when priming as well.

Good call, that's almost exactly what I was going to say.

If you use engine oil, it can run out of places you want it (ie oil pump gears). This is the reason that vfaq and others suggest white grease or similar. It's more of a solid than a liquid, so you literally 'pack' the oil pump gears with it. I also used it on cam and crank rotational surfaces.

 

[Rick@AP]

Please use a good quality assembly lube and not something like white lithium grease. While I wouldn't expect you to go out and buy the same stuff I use which is about $15/can get something that will not break down under a little heat. The reason I say this is that I am assuming you are assembling this enigine in your garage like a lot of people. When the summer comes around and your garage temps start to soar, the lithium grease will start to melt under the heat and it usually doesn't stick around long enough for the oil pressure to get up to par on initial priming of the engine.

 

[want_a_gsx]

Rick- I went to advance auto to get some assembly lube. I bought some of what they had (in a black tube), but I'm not sure if I should trust it. In the back, it says it's lithium based. When I squeezed some out, it's kinda like a black paste.

What do you think about it? Where can I get QUALITY assembly lube?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Rick@AP]

I know what your talking about. It comes in a black tube with white letters, right? IMO, and IMO only, I think that stuff is ok for winter/fall builds where it has no chance of getting any hotter than 80 degrees. It runs off parts pretty easily when applied.

For me, a good determination of a lube is how easily you can get it off your hands. If you can put it on your finger and wipe it off on your jeans in one stroke then you probably will not want to use it.

You can order a quality lube on line from somewhere like Summit or Jegs for the average build or hustle down to your favorite old school speed shop. If you want to spend some dollars look for Royal Purple's Max Tuff. Redline also makes a good lube as well. I personally recommend a product called Ultra Gel Tech but it will run you about $9 for a small container.

 

[AWD_DSM08]

In the motors we have built we use stp. thick stuff and works great

 

[Defiant]

Ragweed oil? Welcome to 1952. No, join this century, pop the heavy dollars for real assembly lube.

 

[packinkimber45]

Once I get my motor back together using assembling lube, is there any type of procedure I need to perform such as after car has run to temp change oil. Also after so many miles to change it again? Thanks.

 

[Defiant]

Depends on your superstitions. It won't hurt anything, it probably won't help anything. Give it 200 and change it out. Use real oil, not synthetic. If you think it's worth it (it isn't) switch to something that says "synthetic" (but isn't) on the bottle after a few thousand.