Mods to run an engine bored .0020 over

[thatblondechik]

Hey guys!

Ok, up until this point I was a strictly 2.0 girl. But I just got a deal on a complete engine that I could not pass up.

-complete 7 bolt longblock with less than 250 miles on rebuild
-bored .0020 over
-eagle H-beam rods
-9:1 Wiseco pistons
-ACL Race Bearings
-ported 2g head with a Cometic gasket
-ARP head and Main studs
-3g lifters
-ported intake manifold with 1g Throttle body(60mm)
-Crower Valve Springs
-FP2 Cams

What I have already
-PTE 680's
-Adjustable cam gears
-GM MAFT (draw-thru until I get short route)
-SAFC2
-Big 16/GT30R Frank Turbo
-GReddy FMIC Long route
-Walbro 255lph
-3in turbo-back
-eBay special MBC

Now here's my question. I've only ever worked with 2.0's so what am I going to have to change up to make this bad boy work? What I have listed up there is everything that WILL be on my car once I drop this new engine in.
Do 9:1's require you to pull timing?
Can I run a bored and/or stroked engine without Link?
Will 680's be enough? The previous owner was running 950's I believe.

Thanks for all the help in advance guys!

 

[delta448]

Everything looks okay except the 680s combined with an SAFC and 9:1 pistons. Those injectors are at about the size limit for an 8.5:1 CR engine using an SAFC to tune. There will be a fair amount more timing advance added to compensate for injectors that large and you may have a difficult time tuning out knock with as much advance as will be added. You should consider either smaller injectors and less boost, or my pick would be to buy tuning equipment that will allow you to control timing, like DSMLink, a Keydiver chip or the AEM EMS.

An 0.020 overbore only increases displacement a from 1997cc to 2020cc and should not really have any affect on anything as far as tuning.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Well the good news is that if you buy the setup you will still be strictly a 2.0 girl.
No reals mods required for you to use an engine that has been rebuilt and bored .020 over. Link will not be required, but its a nice thing to have! Especially in light of the SAFC and 680cc injector limitations mentioned above ^^.

 

[thatblondechik]

Yay for 2.0's! I get to keep all my revs!

Ok, so what size are we talkin'? 600's or 550's? I will more than likely not be doing the tuning as I don't have the proper logging devices.

I'm also trying to dig up a good thread or "How to" article on doing an engine swap and I'm not finding much on here or VFAQ. This will be my first so I want to make sure I do it right...can anyone point me to a good thread/article for a 7-bolt to 7bolt swap? I know it's pretty straight forward, but I'd like a guide.

Any answers or suggestions, guys?

 

[delta448]

Sorry, no 7-to-7 guide here. There are a few out there for 6-bolts and 2.4L swaps, which should be pretty similar. Should be fairly straightforward. A FSM and/or Chiltons would help you a lot.

Refresh your memory on how to relieve fuel pressure. Drain the oil, trans fluid and coolant and pull the axles from the trans. Rent a cherrypicker with wheels from somewhere or find someone who will lend you one. Make sure you don't try to support the engine with it's oilpan. Cover or remove the front fenders, remove the hood, and pull the radiator before lifting the engine out.

The only other advice I can think of right now to give you is to take your time and make sure you label all the wires, vacuum hoses and connectors as you're disconnecting them. If you have a digital camera take plenty of pics.

 

[banishedmunk]

Use the GT30 and get some meth/water, injectors, and something besides the AFC.

 

[beating4g63s]

it's pretty simple unless the motor your getting is from a 95 gst then the only difference is the cam angle sensor is underneath the cam itself compared to 96-99 being to the left of the valve cover if you only want to remove motor and your doing it your self get a hoist remove the water pump pulleys,timing belt cover the timing belft and timing belt components, remove motor mount, either remove the turbo or just unbolt it from the down pipe, remove a/c compressor, and that stupid brace behind the intake, remove all hoses, and the 5 bolts holding the motor to the tranny. also if your removing only the motor remember to remove the bolt to the crank it's a 7/8 sized bolt you have to take the crank pulley off first then you'll see the bolt I'm talking about. past that should be able to get the hoist and pull it out oh yeah remove the wiring harness.

 

[thatblondechik]

Why would I have to take out the harness? I'm not selling the harness...just the engine. And I'm not receiving one with the engine...not being a terd...just asking.

 

[beating4g63s]

you'll have to undo the harness so you can remove the motor out of the car.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

Just wondering did you at one point have a 95 talon tsi with a pink strip. My friend bought that car and the girl who owned it then bought a black gst.

Yep i would agree kick the afc, Im saving for dsm link before i get all my fuel stuff.

 

[thatblondechik]

Haha, no. I've only ever had black DSM's.

I personally like the AFC. It makes everything easier to tune and doesn't cost 1k! But thank you for all of the advice guys, it's greatly appreciated.

 

[boosted86]

while im going to agree that dsmlink is the shiznat as far as tuning goes, the Afc can give you some nice results. since your running some perty high comp pistons, i wouldn't touch that afc without getting a logger of some sort; your knock threshold is going to be coming in really quick. IMOA id wait and keep shopping for a 6 bolt setup, their out there.

 

[thatblondechik]

I've already bought the 7 bolt setup. I'm pretty pleased with it, but yes, I'll be looking into a logger.

 

[1stGenTSi]

Shoot me a PM if you need any help. I've got an engine hoist and just about everything else you might need. -John