Newbie ForumBeginner/newbie/general DSM questions. first mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum. New Members must limit their tech posts to this forum and sub-forums.
Got a little problem. I did a boost leak test recently and I found that air was escaping out of my BOV recirculation tube. This is not supposed to happen is it?
The BOV is an authentic Greddy Type RS and I've messed with tightening and loosening the screw, but it still leaks out.
Could the BOV be bad? This would piss me off because this is the second brand new Greddy that I've had that has had problems!
Any info on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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There definitely should not be any air coming out of the BOV when performing a BLT. If you can replace the Greddy with another valve, such as a 1G RV, and confirm it's the Greddy then you'll have the cause. But it sounds like the valve isn't sealing properly. When you put the soapy water on, where were the bubbles exactly coming from?
I back up the diaphragm theory, because these BoVs are no longer made, I doubt yours is brand new unless its a knockoff(but you said it wasnt). So Im sure its your diaphragm, eventhough the one dsmunkown is showing you says its for a type S it will for sure fit the RS you have(I know from personal experience). If you need further help with the install PM me, Ill be glad to help!!!!!
The recirc tube itself is not leaking, it's when I boost leak test from the turbo inlet my intake is not hooked up so the boost is leaking thru the bov and out of the end of the recirc tube. There are no soapy bubbles coming from anywhere on the bov the air is just escaping out of the blue "horn" area on the bov.
Unfortunately I can't try a different BOV cause my intercooler pipe is flanged for the Greddy. To check if it's the diaphragm do I just unscrew the screws at the top of the bov and open it up?
If you read carefully youll see that thats what i said!
Just reiterating your statement.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Champ Masters
Thanks everyone for the replies!
Thanks for the link DSMunknown. I'll inspect the diaphragm but it's a brand new bov so I don't know why there would be a problem.
Sometimes you're just one of those unlucky people. There have certainly been others who have had this diaphragm problem right at the start. If it is the diaphragm, others have taken some Permatex Ultra Black RTV silicone sealant and lubed it up to make a proper seal (you can find it at any NAPA or most automotive stores). You may want to try this first before spending ~65 bucks on a new diaphragm.
And don't even think about using any other than the Permatex Ultra lineup.
Quote:
The recirc tube itself is not leaking, it's when I boost leak test from the turbo inlet my intake is not hooked up so the boost is leaking thru the bov and out of the end of the recirc tube. There are no soapy bubbles coming from anywhere on the bov the air is just escaping out of the blue "horn" area on the bov.
Unfortunately I can't try a different BOV cause my intercooler pipe is flanged for the Greddy. To check if it's the diaphragm do I just unscrew the screws at the top of the bov and open it up?
Thanks again guys!
Try putting lots of soapy water on the inside of the BOV. This way you can see if the bubbles are coming from the top or bottom of the inside of the valve.
Yes, just find an appropriate allen wrench and take off all the screws. I would loosen all the screws first, then back them out in a cross pattern. There are two springs in the center, so hold the top of the BOV down so it doesn't shoot up in your face or fall on the floor (scratches ).
I'll inspect the diaphragm and see what I can see. I'll give the RTV trick a chance and if all else fails, just order a new diaphragm. I must have the worst luck when it comes to Greddy bov's
You should be greatful that other vendors offer this part. A few years back, you would only be able to get these diaphragms directly from Greddy. And with their shitty customer service, it could take anywhere from several weeks to several months to get your clammy hands on a new one. Not to mention they were 80-100 bucks, not including shipping. So contemplating on getting another Greddy (or another CBV) was something to seriously consider.
Buddy. I have the exact same BOV and mine leaked horribly bad. Right out of the box.
I ended up pulling mine Completly apart. Polished everything inside to a mirror finish. Except the piston! its either anodized or nylon coated. So I just gently gave it a smooth buffing. Nuthing extreme, just smoothed it out..
Polished the brass piston seat so good it makes Gold look bad Then lapped the piston to the seat useing mothers aluminum polish.
Then used a hardening Silicon around the edge diphram. Top and bottom on the sealing edges...
Gave the entire thing a nice silicone spray lube and put it back together useing Tiny amounts of blue loctight on All screws...
It now holds 30psi with No leaks... been doing so for like 7 months. (Well it was bench tested at 30. Its currently running at 16.5 daily)
The greddy is actually a decent BOV. its QC is what makes it suffer... Once you clean them up and givem a good ol polishing. they work great.
I'll inspect the diaphragm and see what I can see. I'll give the RTV trick a chance and if all else fails, just order a new diaphragm. I must have the worst luck when it comes to Greddy bov's
Thanks again for the tips!
The diaphragms are expensive, but I do have a brand new one that I was going to use on my greddy which I never ended up needing, so if you or anyone needs one pm me and I can sell for cheaper than 80-100.
A 1g bov can hold quite a bit, it will depend on the individual piece but I've known them to handle 20psi without shrugging, crushed and dodge garage modded bovs can hold even more than that. I've just switched to a forge bov though and it holds beautifully.
If you are afraid to do it yourself (or just don't want to) dejon make a "stop leak kit" that does the dodge garage mod but a little better in that it still actuates normally at low boost.
When your car is on boost, the pressure is the same on both sides of the BOV(valve and diaphragm), just leaving spring pressure to close the valve. When you let off the throttle, you're just removing the pressure from the diaphragm, but the pressure on the IC pipes(and vacuum on the diaphragm) will open the BOV. While doing the Boost Leak Test, you're basically doing the same thing, more pressure on the valve than on the diaphragm. You should try to somehow to equally pressurize both sides of the BOV while doing the test. If it still leaks, replace it.
BTW, each BOV brand is different. Some will open while doing the test, some won't. There are more facts involved here, like BOV spring pressures, diameter of the diaphragm, etc. But just try it.
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