1g Fuel tank New $900.00

[JrCRXHF]

Well the top of my fuel tank access door is rusted every bolt broke off even after 1.5 weeks of pb blast and wire wheeling the rust off.

the dealer wants 900 dollars for the tank. So i guess my question is Should i do a fuel cell if so does anyone know of one that fits where the stock tank was. Or is there a way to fix all the bolts on the fuel sender/pump.

I searched and found people doing what i would call a temporary repair with JB weld and RTV.

I would like to weld in new studs but with gas fumes that would be still in the tank after it was drained and off the car i don't think this is a good idea.

maybe i could weld up a split ring with the studs on that then put that into the tank with the holes that might work.


Any idea's of how people have fixed this problem would help.

 

[bastarddsm]

good luck finding a fuel cell... I'm in a similar dilema with my awd conversion. you can try and drill and tap new holes..

 

[Burnett03]

Im sure a junkyard has one, or someone who is parting out their car.. Or i believe JMF makes a bolt in cell now for 1gs

 

[b00stedtalon2]

JM Fabrications 1g bolt in fuel cell.

 

[silver bullit]

On vfaq.com they show you how to repair those broken studs.


I priced out a fuel cell for my car it came to 200-250(depending on size of line) For the -6/-8/-10 an line 20 feet of it and all the an fittings i would need to feed the tank to rail and return fuel rail to tank.

Depending on The size of tank, I chose the metal outside rubber inside bladder type design one. That way if i did wreck or get rear ended hard the metal would prevent it from rupture and the rubber blader prevents it from leaking.

They range On the bladder ones from 1-22 gallons. I priced the 16 gallon one to 180ish.

Also you have to factor in size etc as some tracks/scca/auto x/etc wont allow bigger than 15 gallon with out its own cage around it and having a sub framed to the car.

Its a great idea if your lines are ####'d to replace it all.

It was gonna total me about 500 including having a friend with a welder to weld my trunk flat, all the lines and tank, brackets, fittings etc...
Or You can go this route find someone parting out an awd.

90-94 awd is what you need, does not matter if its an auto or manual, laser, talon, eclipse.

Find one for about free-100-150ish.

Finding one that the tank inside is not rusted is a problem.








Do the work yourself it is 6 14mm bolts. The tank itself dry no gas in it weighs 45 pounds or so.

 

[thiazole]

Of course it is only 7 gallons...

 

[JrCRXHF]

Yeah the JMFAB would work fine if it was double the size or even 12 gallons.

But 7 gallons for a weekend car is not going to work well.

We have a local shop that fixes these tanks for around 75-100 bucks they will clean all the rust put on new hardware so it looks like that will be how i am going to try and fix my fuel system.

 

[knochgoon24]

Most places purge the tank with a heavy gas to get all the fumes out before welding. I'd probably just hook up a shop vac to blow then stick the end down in the tank and let it run for a while. If that's the only problem with your tank, you might as well fix it yourself.

 

[99gst_racer]

I can't imagine a replacement fuel tank would cost that much.

Hell, the last one I had in my garage, I gave away to some high school kid that came by looking for scap to make a few bucks.

 

[andy4g63]

There is a very easy way to repair/fix broken studs on fuel tank, fuel sending unit:
I had the same problem a year ago, all but one of the studs on fuel sending unit were broken, so here is what I did:
You have to takethe tank out, or not it is up to you. Next, you buy this tool, which is pretty much a pop rivet gun, but works with special rivets/threaded/. Basically it is apop rivet gun, but has special inserts for the rivets/threaded. Cost around $100. You can find it in some specialty tool stores, not Sears or Pepboys.It uses rivets that have a threaded part on the bottom of the rivet and a flat/regular, before the ehead of rivet. When the gun squishes the rivet it flatens the FLAT part of it and after that you take the stem out on the bottom you have perfect thread:6-8-10mm. It is basically like welding nuts on inside of the fuel sending unit, without the welding part. It comes very clean and easy. Then on top you use bolts instead of nuts and that is it. I had mine redone and you can't even tell. Seals perfect. The rivets are aluminum. The kit comes with three metric size rivets and inserts, but domestic size threads are available on request. Hope this helps.

 

[pj91gsx]

I have a good awd gas tank with only 73k on it. I am parting out the whole car. also, when you are trying to get rusted bolts/nuts free, it helps to heat the bolt/nut with a torch. I dont use a expensive torch just a bunson burner from walmart for 27 dollars, I used it about 20 times in less than a year. You can free those stubborn exhaust nuts that hold on to the stud as well.

 

[JrCRXHF]

no open flames around the gas tank.

As for the AL rivets do you have a link I would always rather spend 100 dollars on a tool then 100 dollars to have someone else fix it.

 

[andy4g63]

OK, the tool is called RIVNUT and is made from Astro- Pneumatic/tool company and the model # is:1441 .
You are doing that repair on your own. Ijust spoke to my guy who fixed that for me and he said, that you definitely have to take the tank out of thre car, clean it, wash it, keep some water inside while you doing/replacing/cutting the studs. Install all the rivets, make sure that everything fits before you put on the car.
Then drain the water, clean it again and make sure it is dry, before you put it back on the car. Absolutely no flame around during that repair is allowed at all. Be extra CAREFULL, it is a FUEL TANK you dealing with.

 

[JrCRXHF]

cool i will look into getting the tools


I am not going to use any flame around the tank that is for sure.

 

[GreenGSX]

You can safely cut, weld, drill, and tap any part of the tank if you do the work with the tank out of the car and full of water.

 

[crimsondragon]

Yeah the JMFAB would work fine if it was double the size or even 12 gallons.

But 7 gallons for a weekend car is not going to work well.

We have a local shop that fixes these tanks for around 75-100 bucks they will clean all the rust put on new hardware so it looks like that will be how i am going to try and fix my fuel system.

No way to bolt the two of them together and have seperate fuel lines running out of them?

 

[99gst_racer]

No way to bolt the two of them together and have seperate fuel lines running out of them?

I don't think two square cells would even fit underneath a 1G.

 

[Smitherines]

Call Mitsu Gary at Mitsubishi Graveyard...he's ###### got what you need, thats where I got my replacement tank from when I did my resto. If not, then use the rivet method, but also pick up some Permatex "Right-Stuff". It's fuel impervious and will act as a great sealer. I used it on the top plate on my fuel tank and you cant smell a thing.

Just make sure you put a big fuel pump in now so you never have to open it again.

 

[JrCRXHF]

yeah a walbro-255lph is going in the tank now that is why i started trying to get into the tank.

 

[pj91gsx]

I was just wondering, do you have a good adjustable fpr?

 

[JrCRXHF]

yeah i already put the aeromotive FPR in i am doing 1000cc injectors and a AEM EMS
all at this same time.