Greddy Type RS...Can it hold boost?

[ThatGst]

I had a Greddy Type S in my car when I bought it. It was all Rigged with a screw because I guess the owner b4 me didnt know how to tighten the screw it came with. So I decided to go out and get an RS.... I didnt put it in till now that I just did a turbo swap. I adjusted it pretttty tight and took it out for a spin and it felt like once the wastegate opened up it couldnt hold the boost. Help me out if anyone has feedback.

 

[silver bullit]

How do you have it hooked up and did you try to loosen it up any?

 

[ThatGst]

Yes when I first put it on I didn't tighten it that much. When the car would reach 10 psi or so it would sputter... So I tightened it a lot more... The sputtering stopped but now when the wastegate opens up I completely lose power... Here is a pic of the set up...

 

[tkelly27]

Another cool thing about the boost leak tester is you can test to see at what pressure things pop open, or move, or what. If your BOV is opening, then your car will fall on it's face.

Another issue. It's not recirculated. Don't know, don't care what you've done, recirculate it.

 

[dSmgs-T]

why is it mounted so far from the TB?

 

[ThatGst]

Had the piping made. That's how the guy made it. The Maf sensor is higher up ill post a engine bay pic now

 

[ThatGst]

Here is a pic of the Engine bay... Let me know anything that you see wrong so I can fix it.

 

[GofaST4life]

Another cool thing about the boost leak tester is you can test to see at what pressure things pop open, or move, or what. If your BOV is opening, then your car will fall on it's face.

Another issue. It's not recirculated. Don't know, don't care what you've done, recirculate it.

the engine pic shows you have a GM MAF set up...so recirculation is not needed...

i have a GReddy Type RS, held boost fine and i didnt tighten it or mess with it one bit after the purchase...the highest it held was around 23psi...

 

[ThatGst]

The reason I'm asking is because a buddy of mine had one on his Evo and he was having the same prob with the sputtering and complete loss of boost.... Once he changed it... prob solved... from what he told me anyways.

 

[kenamond]

I agree that you should do a BLT and see when the BOV pops. Then take a vaccuum tester to the BOV-to-IM line and see that the BOV is opening under vaccuum.

What boost are you running?

Is your MBC/EBC boost source coming from the BOV-to-IM line (tee'd in)?

 

[ThatGst]

I just put in the turbo not too long ago so I just opened it up a little the other day when I got my exhaust done. So I really can't tell you what boost I'm running yet. I have a Manual boost controller on it. I hooked it up the way I was told to, but again this is the first time I do this much modding to the car. I'm looking up on vfaq how to make the Boost leak tester.

 

[kenamond]

I just put in the turbo not too long ago so I just opened it up a little the other day when I got my exhaust done. So I really can't tell you what boost I'm running yet. I have a Manual boost controller on it. I hooked it up the way I was told to, but again this is the first time I do this much modding to the car. I'm looking up on vfaq how to make the Boost leak tester.

Don't you have an aftermarket boost gauge? If not, you need one asap.

 

[ThatGst]

Yes I do but I dont use the car as a daily driver and I'm still breaking in the new turbo... So I dont want too drive it too hard

 

[silver bullit]

Yes I do but I dont use the car as a daily driver and I'm still breaking in the new turbo... So I dont want too drive it too hard

You dont need to break a turbo in you just need to prime it.

Is the bov lines taped and where is the source for it?

Are you referring to the maf?

 

[pj91gsx]

from the picture I can tell that you t-ed a vaccum line on the bov line. The purpose of the bov having a vaccum line is to keep the bov closed. When you let off the gas the throttle body builds up pressure in the intercooler piping and the bov goes off because it only holds so much pressure.

You need to t- in the boost gauge line at the fuel solenoid line to the intake manifold. I can't say that is your problem but it should help. btw do you know if you gm Maf is calibrated?

 

[OddNotion]

from the picture I can tell that you t-ed a vaccum line on the bov line. The purpose of the bov having a vaccum line is to keep the bov closed. When you let off the gas the throttle body builds up pressure in the intercooler piping and the bov goes off because it only holds so much pressure.

You need to t- in the boost gauge line at the fuel solenoid line to the intake manifold. I can't say that is your problem but it should help. btw do you know if you gm Maf is calibrated?

What you said is correct, but let's show him why it's important to reference pressure in the intake manifold AFTER the throttle body-

The BOV uses a combination of spring pressure, AND boost pressure to keep it closed while boosting. When you let off the accelerator, and the throttle body closes, the intake manifold suddenly sees a vacuum. This vacuum is what the BOV is referencing, so when the vacuum is applied to the "atmosphere" side of the BOV diaphragm, the backed up pressurized air is now able to overcome the assistance of the BOV spring, and vent properly. If you don't reference post-throttle body, you just have boost trying to force the BOV open, AND hold it closed.

 

[MrBentley]

the engine pic shows you have a GM MAF set up...so recirculation is not needed...

i have a GReddy Type RS, held boost fine and i didnt tighten it or mess with it one bit after the purchase...the highest it held was around 23psi...

I have a question.... can i leave it at the stiffness that it came with and still run on stock boost levels or will it cause problems? Like what happens if th spring in too stiff?