safely run mid 20's psi

eclipsemustang · 05-09-2008, 08:15 PM

is there anything else i need other than some new head studs and a head gasket to run my boost in the mid 20's on my evo III turbo?

casperfast · 05-09-2008, 08:24 PM

fuel pump, injectors, fmic would help, air/fuel controller

dsm-onster · 05-09-2008, 08:33 PM

A logger.

Why do you want to run mid 20s psi? Why not later 20? or 21.324567432536324562psi? My H1c flows 4 lbs/min more at the same boost than my small 16g. You need to use a lb/min and/or hp goal to determine what your setup needs. Then log running up the boost and see what you can get. . .

. . . Truely, boost is just a sideeffect of any horsepower goal.

eclipsemustang · 05-09-2008, 08:35 PM

i guess it doesnt have to be mid 20's i just want close to 320-350 hp, i just noticed people boosting 20 psi on thier EVO III were getting around 300hp

RU2SLOW? · 05-09-2008, 08:38 PM

It would definitely be a bit easier to run that much boost safely if you had DSMLink vs the SAFC2 you have listed in your profile.

eclipsemustang · 05-09-2008, 08:45 PM

im not to worried about the tuner because i know someone who is proffessionally tuning my car on his dyno. unless a dsmlink would still help

casperfast · 05-09-2008, 08:48 PM

dsmlink will ALWAYS help. i cant wait until i buy mine, i have $200 hidden from the wife on the fridge for one, almost tere lol

rarson · 05-10-2008, 07:44 PM

You're going to have to lean out a lot to run 20 psi on a stock ECU just to avoid hitting fuel cut. DSMLink is a nice option because it eliminates fuel cut from the ECU. You also get to log and adjust fuel, timing, and airflow individually, instead of hacking the airflow input to the ECU (with the AFC, you gain timing when you lean it out because you're placing the ECU at a lower load, which isn't always desirable).

There's also a ton of extra features with DSMLink, but you can read all about that on their website.

eder-loco · 05-10-2008, 09:02 PM

i had a evo III 16g, stock head, stock block ( 6bolt ) .
front mount, 550s. 255pump,aero FPR, safc2. on a conservative tune, i pushed 275hp at 20psi.
couple of more pounds and a bit more aggressive tune would of gotten me in the 300s.

haioku-rocket · 05-11-2008, 03:03 AM

I am running a stock HG @ 26 psi on my 50 trim for about a year in a half, so might as well dispell that HG "need" in that list, also my wife has been running her 60 trim at 20 psi for about 6 months now too with a stock HG.

Like most have already said...

-fuel pump..walbro 190
-injectors..atleast 650s or larger
-Engine management/fuel controller (tons of different combos here won't even go into it)
-ARP head studs (have heard of people eclisping 30 psi on stock head bolts...but I wouldn't reccomend it)
-FMIC (I don't think the sidemout is up to the task)
-logger (IMO definately a must if you are going to boost that high)

Just for reference mid 20s on 93 pump is going to be tough. Car is going to have to be tuned well. My engine has a bit higher compression than yours (9:1 vs 8.5:1).... but I could not run more than 21 PSI on pump gas without knocking like crazy. 20-21 psi about 7-10 counts was about it for me at 14-15 degrees of timing. Until I got methanol injection. ;-)

rarson · 05-12-2008, 05:02 AM

Yeah, I second pretty much all that.

I'm still on the original head gasket that the car came off the lot with. The head has never been off. My car doesn't seem to like much more than 20 psi on pump gas, but at 22 psi, with a dash of race gas in the mix, the small 16g pushed about 35 lbs/min which was good for 11's (three in a row). That was just one track visit two years ago; unfortunately, I was only able to run the car once in the past 6 or so years (stationed on Guam, moved to Michigan, blah blah blah).

If you ask me, 300 hp on an EVOIII 16g sounds low. The fact that it's taking 20 psi or more to even get that far tells me that something is missing: cams. The great thing about adding cams to a 16g car is that it really makes the turbo work hard to keep up the boost... meaning, you can make more power with less boost which is a good thing on the 16g, since it doesn't seem to like all that much boost (at least not in my experience, not on pump).

As far as injectors go, 650's at least, I would have to agree with that. 550's are pretty much maxed out on my car. I wouldn't call my tune aggressive at all; the key is just getting the engine to breathe better so that you don't have to run crazy boost.

dsm-onster · 05-12-2008, 08:57 AM

With 650s, you'll never come close to fuel cut with an SAFC a 350whp goal. Considering how much correction an SAFC has to make to the airflow curve. He'll be pushed far away from fuel cut wth the low IDC 650s can allow at 320-350whp. ShapeGSX (one of the very first e3 16g cars in the 11s) ran several 380+whp trap speeds (best of 117.5mph a full weight => 400whp) and was pushing his 660s to 84% with a bit higher horsepower than the top of your range. Shape's setup (stock shortblock, FMIC, 272s/fp2s, stock head/intake) pushing That idc with 660s comes to arond .52-.53 brake specific fuel consumption with his tune slighly on the lean side.

With PTE 660s, I've pushed a small 16g to 36lbs/min and seen 78% IDC. And I've pushed a td05h 18g to 38lbs/min and seen 83% IDC. These lb/min numbers are what your 350whp goal likely will be needing airflow wise. I've also seen 52% IDC with 1000cc at 35.8 lbs/min with a small 16g. 52% of 1000cc is dead nuts with 80% of 650s.

Try to meet your goal with the safc you already have, 650s, and a logger. How big is your greddy intercooler?

4g63ttalon2g · 05-12-2008, 09:04 AM

see i have the same problem i got a fresh 4g63t motor and put a 16g turbo on it the guy told me that im at 300 but i highly doubt it ### i dont even know if he really like swwapped the motor is like ####in with me and just saying it and cleaned up my stock one