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quick help please! cam timing wont center

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Daaan

15+ Year Contributor
229
0
Aug 15, 2007
Courtice,
Im putting on my timing belt and when i do so all timing marks line up properly, oil sprok is set up right, but the 4 marks on the cams wont line up exactly when i place a ruler up to it.
is this normal?? or should it line up dead on.. its only off a tooth (3 will line up and the last one is off about | | that much.
 
You need to get the marks on the cam sprockets lined up perfectly. If you are off one tooth on one of them this is most likely your problem.

But even when i take two wreches and make them perfect, but belt wont go into the teeth.
ive had the belt off for about 6 monthes due to the winter, and not having a garage. this wouldnt have shrunk or expaned the belt would it?
 
What I do is get the motor at TDC, then get the belt set across the top of the cam pullys, then use two wrenches and rotate the cams so they are timed correctly (marks lined up with the cyl head and eachother) then set the belt into the cogs. I used two vise grips to hold the belt to the pullys and work the rest of the belt down around the pullys clockwise. I loosen the tensioner pully so it'll rotate on the eccentric. It makes it a lot easier to slip the belt over, then I use a small pry bar and rotate the eccentric back out as far as it'll go. Tighten the tensioner pully and remove the allen wrench from the auto tensioner.
Rotate the engine a few times to make sure everything still lines up and you should be good to go.
 
I just got done with my timing for the first time and it helped to use some monster zip ties to hold the belt on the exhaust cam and intake cam to keep them aligned with the timing marks then work the rest of the belt on. But it does sound like your a tooth off.
 
Thanks im going to keep working on it.
any more opinions would be great. it will start and idle fine when i do put like it is tho.

All three crankshaft marks on the bottem line up perfectly, when i hold to wrenches with the cam gears so the marks line up perfect, the belt wont fit in, i have to let it fall into the next divet...
 
Sounds to me like you got a cheap parts store belt. Been there and seen them. Your timming built is a very important so dont go cheap. Forgive me if im wrong but thats what I have seen from cheap belts.
 
Sounds to me like you got a cheap parts store belt. Been there and seen them. Your timming built is a very important so dont go cheap. Forgive me if im wrong but thats what I have seen from cheap belts.

Its a factory belt from mitsubishi, but ive had it off for the past 6 or so months, would this of distorted it at all?
 
I just finished my first T-belt job as well. Took me 3 days, but I got it done!
Maybe you're not accounting for the belt being taught on the cam gears. When I did mine, I had to turn the exhaust cam gear 1 tooth off in a clockwise direction while I was setting the belt, but once I released the gear and allowed the belt to got tight across the gears, they would line up fine.

Make sure you zip tie or somehow hold the belt onto the gears once you have them set, or as soon as you start messing with the lower sprockets, it'll just fall out of place.
 
I had the same issue with the 1 notch off. It helped me to use a white out pen to mark the belt and cam to make sure I got the belt on perfect. Good luck!
 
I just finished my first T-belt job as well. Took me 3 days, but I got it done!
Maybe you're not accounting for the belt being taught on the cam gears. When I did mine, I had to turn the exhaust cam gear 1 tooth off in a clockwise direction while I was setting the belt, but once I released the gear and allowed the belt to got tight across the gears, they would line up fine.

Make sure you zip tie or somehow hold the belt onto the gears once you have them set, or as soon as you start messing with the lower sprockets, it'll just fall out of place.

I did my belt today and learned a similar technique as mentioned above from another dsmer. I lined up the two on the bottom and got the exhaust cam gear straight, but I set the intake cam gear off by one tooth(clockwise) and used two clips to hold the belt. Then I rotated the crank 6-7 times can't remember but everything lined up perfect.
 
No no its not that it was jumping out of the tooth, i used 2 wrenches and alligned them perfect. the belt just wouldnt fit into the gear. Hard to explain. it wasnt off very far at all, i did start it up and fired good, also took it for a spin, seemed fine to me...
 
If you took it around the block with no problems your good as long as tensioner is tight. I've done several timing belts on them and sometimes I can get them perfect and other times the cam marks will look like they are out but the crank is in and vice versa. If you have it off by a tooth they will run like a real dog, personnel experience.:D:laser:
 
If you get that auto tensioner gap set at the correct .157 to .185 (5/32 to 11/64" drillbit size) in doing the tensioner pulley adjustments as shown in repair manuals and this http://vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html site, the two cams markings should align up right to specs - which I've got it the first time I did a belt.

If you're one tooth off, take it all apart and do it right. Otherwise, performance will seriously be hindered.

Good luck-DSM
 
One thing happend, i just rebuilt the cly head myself and when i pushe the TB today it sagged with a little force. so i turned the crank by hand 3 or so times. then the belt was real tight again. Is this normal? im going to change the tensioner this week somtime but just wondering. Im only 19, experience is limited but i do know quite a bit.
 
I'm going to change the tensioner this week sometime, but just wondering. I'm only 19, experience is limited but I do know quite a bit.

We were wondering if you put new parts in outside of your new belt, for if the tensioner had that much 'give', it needs to come out real bad.

This pict below showing the marks, is what you need to achieve with alignment and settings in their correct form.
 

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We were wondering if you put new parts in outside of your new belt, for if the tensioner had that much 'give', it needs to come out real bad.

This pict below showing the marks, is what you need to achieve with alignment and settings in their correct form.

what i mean by it not lining up it when you place a straight edge along the 4. it wont all line up precisly. its a little off. but i took it for a test today and ran great, hmm weird i know.
 
...it won't all line up precisely...
Since you got the new OEM belt (which isn't your problem since I did the same with my DSM), the belt isn't the problem. I'd call it your autotensioner isn't gapped right - either too tight, or too loose causing the exhaust sprocket to turn slightly from the line.

When you do the belt trick, the exhaust cam will rock forward just a bit from center without the belt on. You put a bulldog clip on the intake cam to hold the belt, and with the two 17mm wrenches holding the two sprockets, you roll the exhaust cam towards the firewall to meet the sprocket teeth with the belt teeth, then slip the belt over the exhaust sprocket and bulldog clip that belt down over that sprocket. THEN, you get the belt over the tensioner pulley and do the autoadjuster measurements. If you get it right, all four marks should be dead on in alignment with the head to block line.

Yes, if it's off a bit, the motor will still run, but it's not being full effective in operation since one cam is being retarded (or advanced) to be effective.

Try these tricks out. Good luck - DSM
 

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I just went outside and pushed on the timing belt between the exhause and intake cam gears and it moves slightly with berly any effort. is this a sign my tensioner needs to be replaced? or is it normal for it to slightly move up and down?

or should it be tight, so you cant move it?
 
is this a sign my tensioner needs to be replaced? or is it normal for it to slightly move up and down?
No..with a good tensioner, the cams will be rock solid whereas you got the unfortunate movement when you push down the belt inbetween the cam sprockets.

With that much play that you have, your belt is bouncing something fierce underneath the belt cover and could break without much effort (or, at least cause a tooth jump and your motor dies suddenly) and in a much shorter time than the recommended 60k mile changeout.

Go get you a new tensioner....be the best and safest bet for you.
 
Thanks for the help. Im going to buy a new tensioner regaurdless, but i have all the t-belt covers off. and just put all together to see it. but when i rev the engine by hand the belt shows no sign of movment. weird huh?

Oh and is that your car in the pick above? if so can you place a ruler or straight edge along all four cam timing marks and tell me if they all line up? that would be supurb ;)
thanks for all the help again man, appreciate it
 
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