Shaft seals and now stalling

[Crazyjoker77]

Well i replaced my non existant shaft seals on the throttlebody as well as replaced the O-ring on my BISS.

Now that i have it back together the car will fire up right away idle fine for about 30 sec and then just shut off like i turned the key to off. It will keep doing this till the car gets up to operating temperature and the stallings will go away and everything will be peachy.

-ive checked the ISC resistance and get 28ohms on all 4 coils as well i pulled it out and it is clean.
-Tps is reading correctly as per pocketlogger.
-ive adjusted the biss so that it idles around 1300 rpm when started cold and it idles around 800 once it warms up and stays rock solid with no surging.
- only other thing to note is that if i turn on my ac once i get the car idling by letting it warm up is that my rpm RISE from about 800 to 1200 or so.( if the isc was faulty i thought the opposite should happen)

So any suggestions on this very annoying problem it never use to do anything like this before i swapped out the shaft seals.

I can get a log or video if any of you request it.

 

[super97gst]

are you sure you reconnected all vaccuum lines correctly?? some of the vaccuum lines are used for vaccuum until the engine has warmed completely up. is the throttle plate closing completely after you installed new shaft seals??

 

[Crazyjoker77]

any other suggestion car is insured tommorow and i want to get it in proper running order.

 

[Crazyjoker77]

heres a video from awhile ago when i frst did the shaft seals and the stallnig started occuring

YouTube - dsm stall

also im waiting for another longer video that shows my gauges to upload to youtube that will be available shortly

 

[Crazyjoker77]

okay heres the longer in cabin video its about 4min long. Dont mind my dad at around 2.5min he showed up unexpectantly while i was taping. at about 3min i start to rev it till it stalled out. I let it run for another 10min after i finished filming and had no issues whatsoever other than a slightly higher than normal idle of around 970rpm as per my logger.

I dont understand why this is only happening while cold and once my coolant temps get to above 170degrees everything is normal except for my idle being high.

I also do a quick walkaround after and do a close up of my vacuum lines i replaced which i believe to be correct as per the diagram i got from another post but would love it if some1 double checked them

YouTube - dsm cold stalling part 2

 

[tbonitz301]

Are you sure that you got the isc back in the correct step?

 

[Crazyjoker77]

Are you sure that you got the isc back in the correct step?

Well unfortunately i don't have DSM link to check its step. and ive played around with the BISS alot with very little success.

As well when i first removed the throttlebody i never removed the ISC from the throttlebody but when i reinstalled the whole assembly this problem arose.

as well even if the ISC was off step why would the car just completely die out i mean air is still getting past the BISS and also why is it only during the first few minutes of the car running?( also if i hold the gas pedal down slightly to hold the RPMs at say 2krpm the car will still just shut off like in the video but yet air is obviosuly getting past the throttle plate.

as for setting the idle the only thing i can seem to find on adjusting it (other than the mistu scan tool for holding the ISC) is to get the vehicle to operating temp see if the the idle is high or low shut the vehicle off adjust the BISS accordingly remove the battery cable for a few min to reset the ECU then let the car idle for 10minutes.

 

[Crazyjoker77]

Under mild acceleration(10-20% on the logger) it will sometimes randomly buck and also completly random backfires.

I didnt want to get on it to hard with the car acting like this but it would behave fine when i was acelerating in mild boost and really the only time i had issues was when i was stuck behind another car.

Also when i left my house my idle was at a solid 950rpm for a good 5-8min but by the time i was 2 blocks down my idle raised to about 1200rpms and stayed there the whole drive.

I did 2 logs on my way back(both about 5min) but i cant post them on here without the formatting gettin messed up but i will include the graphs so you can get a idea.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Now at the end of the first graph my CEL came on so i stopped the log and checked the code it was a po300 (random missfire) cleared it and started up the logger again and finished my drive home.

Why on the second graph does my O2 sensor barely cycle as well as being super lean except for a few spikes? as well my STFT doesnt change as well.(also during this time id say the car ran the best.)

also on the second graph right at the begining when the timing and RPM both drop at the same time was when the car was doing its little bucking thing. It also did at least 15 or so more times during the 15min drive i did but that is the only one where i got the time off the logger to check it out.

still open to ideas

 

[super97gst]

okay heres the longer in cabin video its about 4min long. Dont mind my dad at around 2.5min he showed up unexpectantly while i was taping. at about 3min i start to rev it till it stalled out. I let it run for another 10min after i finished filming and had no issues whatsoever other than a slightly higher than normal idle of around 970rpm as per my logger.

I dont understand why this is only happening while cold and once my coolant temps get to above 170degrees everything is normal except for my idle being high.

I also do a quick walkaround after and do a close up of my vacuum lines i replaced which i believe to be correct as per the diagram i got from another post but would love it if some1 double checked them

YouTube - dsm cold stalling part 2

! this po300 crap is really getting old. it must be some kind of dsm infection that's going around lately. this is only happening when the engine is cold, you are certain of that?? if so your problem is simply a coolant temp. sensor. i hope for your sake it is. these po300's can be a real PIA. my gst has been down for 2 months with one, totally undrivable. you can get yourself a CTS at any auto parts store for like 30 bucks. swap it out and let me know what it's doing then. your logs make me think it's even more likely to be the CTS.

also, are you getting really low idle now?? like barely high enough to idle at all, maybe 100-200 rpm's. i think it you need to test your TPS as well. just run through both TPS tests with a multimeter, then post back the results. the po300 code always seems to come with lean running conditions.

 

[Crazyjoker77]

! this po300 crap is really getting old. it must be some kind of dsm infection that's going around lately. this is only happening when the engine is cold, you are certain of that?? if so your problem is simply a coolant temp. sensor. i hope for your sake it is. these po300's can be a real PIA. my gst has been down for 2 months with one, totally undrivable. you can get yourself a CTS at any auto parts store for like 30 bucks. swap it out and let me know what it's doing then. your logs make me think it's even more likely to be the CTS.

also, are you getting really low idle now?? like barely high enough to idle at all, maybe 100-200 rpm's. i think it you need to test your TPS as well. just run through both TPS tests with a multimeter, then post back the results. the po300 code always seems to come with lean running conditions.

actually my idle is the exact opposite it is really high the biss is almost completely screwed in and after driving it for five or so min it rises up to 1200 or so.

The stallings are only happening when the vehicle is cold but it is bucking and backfiring once its warm and i can drive it. THe buckin and backfirings only happen at cruise and mild accelartion if i get into it a little bit there are no issues

I dont believe my coolant temp sensor is faulty as i can check it with the logger and it correctly read the temp of my coolant and my fans kick on at 199degrees as they should and the temp drops.

As well my tps is fine i checked it with a multimeter when i rebuilt the throttle body. and put it back on per the factory service manual specs. I found these to be a little bit off when i checked it on the logger (only went up to 89 with the pedal WOT so i adjusted it with my logger till it was correct.

also i have been gettin a Po300 code for awhile now and kinda atributed it to the fact i had i wicked vacuum leak from my shaft seals and use to get the code sometimes just cruising. this is the first time the code poped on since i did the throttlebody(only about 60km though) and when it did it really didnt seem like a misfire at all compared to some of the backfiring it was doing earlier.

I think im gonna order up a wideband here if i dont find a solution quick hopefully that will help things along

 

[super97gst]

well, there are just so many things that can cause a po300 that it's just really hard to diagnosis it. you'll probably have to start going over every single vaccuum hose t omake sure there are no dry rotted crackeup hoses. or hoses that have just come loose. could be the egr or evap system causing it.

 

[Crazyjoker77]

well, there are just so many things that can cause a po300 that it's just really hard to diagnosis it. you'll probably have to start going over every single vaccuum hose t omake sure there are no dry rotted crackeup hoses. or hoses that have just come loose. could be the egr or evap system causing it.

would'nt leaking vacuum lines be show by a boost leak test?

 

[Crazyjoker77]

allright so i tore apart my throttle body today again. found some interesting things first off i found my ISC to be uplugged. Now i do remeber unplugging this when i removed the ISC to take it to work to test it so this whole time it hasnt even been plugged in. What kind of issues does a car expierence with the ISC plugged in.

Also when i removed the coolant lines going into the FIAV there was almost no coolant that came out (compared to the first time when probably close to 1/4L came out. so it seems that my FIAV was airlocked. Again what symptoms would this cause.

anyway just posting here for some insight before i throw it all back together or if there is anything else i should check while i have all the IC piping and throttlebody and battery out of the way.

Im seriously considering doing my fuel filter since i have easy access at it at the moment and im not positive it was changed when my fuel system was done. As i know a clogged filter would cause the stalling issue im expierencing and mabey even the missfire.