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talon20g

15+ Year Contributor
206
6
Mar 21, 2007
WHITAKERS, North Carolina
Here's the progress from a $300 completely blown up talon. Blown turbo, bent valves, grinding tranny and over half the nuts and bolts missing 4 years ago... then a rebuild with bolt on mods and then the build. The new build has been on going for about 2 years now with 6 months of it trying to get everything machined to my satisfaction.

Balanced to within a 10th of a gram
Manley Rods
Wiesco Pistons
4 layer mitsu head gasket
ARP mains, rods and head studs
Fully ported and polished head
1mm o/s SS valves
Bronze guides
Brain Crower 280 cams, springs and retainers
JMF smim
Rebuilt HY-35 with ported exhaust housing
SS autocrap maifold rewelded, braced and port matched
Tial 38mm wastegate
Full 6an feed and return line
Aeromotive FPR
Manaul Steering Rack
Relocated Alternater
Used Shep stage 2 awd tranny (shes wrong wheel drive though)
Awd axles
Oem gaskets, oil pump gears and housing, tensioner, and everything else
Fidanza flywheel
Zoom clutch
1000cc msd injectors
255hp walbro (an extra one when I cross the 500hp mark)
Chip burned by keydiver
N/T throttle body
32*12*3 ebay intercooler
Maft translator
Innovate wideband
Full 3'' exhaust (no cat) borla muffler

Theres more but this is a decent amount.
 

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Looks like alot of hard work, good to see.

Also good to make sure stuff meets standards you set instead of just rushing stuff to get it done.

hope it turns out and works out well!

Can sometimes find DSMs cheap, but one way or another, we all seem to throw tons of money at them! :cry::shhh::sneaky:
 
Twice the money and time went into this motor to make sure I had a reliable and quick car. I know reliable and dsm don't belong in the same sentence but we all have dreams. I dry fitted this motor twice and measure multiple times. I even kept a book of all the measurements so if anything goes wrong I can go back and look at the build specs.
Just incase anyone was wondering the wheels aren't going to be white for long. I was thinking a dark bronze might be nice. Now if could only find somewhere to powdercoat for a reasonable price and close by.
First time I had welded cast aluminum also it proved to be a little harder than I tought but not bad.
 
Almost forgot....:D everything from the winsheild forwards was stripped bare, cleaned, prepped and dupont truck bed liner sprayed in. :cool:
 
Yah really nice man, I love the build path too. No dsmlink though? Also where did you get that manual steering rack from, i have a bad power steering leak from the pump and the rack so i want to get trid of them both.
I already had key diver make me a chip for the last set up and also had MAFT already. At $20 for each reburn... it's beats $545 for the time being. Next step will be dsmlink.
Try Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market and search under steering gear.
 
I already had key diver make me a chip for the last set up and also had MAFT already. At $20 for each reburn... it's beats $545 for the time being. Next step will be dsmlink.
Try Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market and search under steering gear.

Or just get the software and a Williem Eprom burner and some rewriteable Eprom chips and burn your own chip tunes when you feel like it with TunerPro or Evilscribe. ;)
 
Why not go COP? Pretty cheap....total setup cost is $140 for me. That's with 6 junkyard coils and then a $80 plate.

Very nice tho. I hope one day my talon can compete with the quality of work done. Also, why an N/T TB?
 
Or just get the software and a Williem Eprom burner and some rewriteable Eprom chips and burn your own chip tunes when you feel like it with TunerPro or Evilscribe.
I had thought about the ostrich with tuner pro or possibly even dsmap (speed density) but for the time being this will work fine. There are a few 10 sec and 9 sec cars with key divers (jeffs) chips. He knows his STUFF. :) I might get one of my other dsms running and try to chip it so if I mess anything up it won't be much of a loss.;)
Why not go COP? Pretty cheap....total setup cost is $140 for me. That's with 6 junkyard coils and then a $80 plate.

Very nice tho. I hope one day my talon can compete with the quality of work done. Also, why an N/T TB?
COP isn't need for my hp goals. And I can't justify the money just to clean up the engine bay. But... I've thought about it and it sounds sweet.
The main reason for the N/T throttle body is so I could use a 90 degree 4 ply elbow. But I had also done a very slight porting job, polished her up and replaced the shaft seal.
 
I had thought about the ostrich with tuner pro or possibly even dsmap (speed density) but for the time being this will work fine. There are a few 10 sec and 9 sec cars with key divers (jeffs) chips. He knows his STUFF. :) I might get one of my other dsms running and try to chip it so if I mess anything up it won't be much of a loss.;)

I have no first hand experience with using the Ostrich but i know it works good and makes the tuning convience similar to that of dsmlink. My friend had a Ostrich when he used to drive a dsm. Also, Tunerpro is good stuff but i havent used that either, but i tune with evilscribe which i find very very simple to make minor timing, AFR adjustments and it takes me literally 10 minutes total to reburn my own chips and swap them into the ecu.
Learning to change the HEX codes is a little bit more tedious but i believe Tunerpro has it setup were even that is cake. Its good stuff and a cheap way to properly tune a dsm. Give it a shot.
 
After being lazy for a few months I'm back at it.

I guess I can only post the pic once on this site. Here is the link to the homemade O2 housing. It's post #98.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/303969-holset-turbos-part-4-a-4.html

I was able to cut a few small pie sections to make the tight turn needed off the turbine housing and attach the O2 housing and downpipe with a V-band. Now I'm able clear the oil filter with pleanty of space. Then came the wastegate and an ebay dumptube that had to be hacked up and rewelded. Got the intercooler piping finished and thanks to reese92tsi a tial bov mounted on. The coil on plug set up turned out nice too. The pics were taken with my phone so they may not be the best in the world.

I need a catch can and an overflow tank so if anyone has something drop me a pm.
 

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Thats pretty. I like how much effort you're putting into this to make this a reliable dsm. Wait... those two words again. The only thing I have a problem with is the truck bed liner in the engine bay. I know its designed to protect and withstand a lot, but I've seen the spray on liners catch fire when they get really really hot. And correct me if I'm wrong, but dsm engine bays tend to get really really hot. Just something to keep an eye on. Keep up the good work!
 
with that oil feed line and filter from the head, you might have problems with the filter leaking. I bought mine and put it on, and it leaked a ton of oil out the two ends. Im gonna put some thread sealer on it to make sure that doesn't happen. Looking good, though. Builds always continue to inspire me to my own someday.
 
Its looking really good. I would like to do a little something to clean up the engine bay on my car. I like your alternator relocation. Engine bays looking great.
 
What´s the benefit of puting BOV right after turbo?

There is no benefit at all. Well, none that I'm aware of. The reason I put it there is because all the intercooler piping is aluminum and the only place I had access to a tig welder was at the tech. At the time I welded the cast aluminum elbow shown in the first post I was taking a tig class. As of now all I have is a Miller 135 mig welder and the short section the bov flange is welded to, is mild steel. So short answer is ease of installation at the time.
If there are any disadvantages of this someone please let me know.

I know its designed to protect and withstand a lot, but I've seen the spray on liners catch fire when they get really really hot. And correct me if I'm wrong, but dsm engine bays tend to get really really hot. Just something to keep an eye on.

Hadn't heard of this before. I'd definatly be interested in finding out how much truth there is to that.
 
Hadn't heard of this before. I'd definatly be interested in finding out how much truth there is to that.

Well like I said, I've seen truck bed liners catch fire. But an engine bay is a different story. Probably more the exception than the rule. Could have just been the truck drivers fault.
Another thing I just thought of is the rollbar install on vfaq.com. They were welding to the body and the underbody coating(similar enough to bed liner) was catching on fire. Now I'm not sure that the engine bay will get as hot as welding, but just something to keep an eye on.
 
Didn't get much done but I did have a great idea for a catch can. See if ya'll can figure out what it is?
Anyone have any ideas as far as the gas tank goes?
 

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