New To DSM (loving it BTW)

[GunnaBaSleeper]

Just got a 97 Taoln TSi FWD. Body is in great shape runs allright, well on day one scared the shit out of this kid in a MX-3. A few things though.
-How loud is the factory turbo supposed to be? Its loud so i am thinging boost leak
-What turbo should it have it dosnt look like the the 14B that powers my DD but i thought it was the standard DSM turbo?
-Oil leaking from the valve cover easy fix though
-How well does Seafoam work on DSM i know its a lost cause on my 8G Galant (turbo DD)
-Best mods to start with? Intake,Exhuast or what.
Look foward to building my DSM in to an awsome undercover fighter.

My DD Specs: 2001 4G64 Galant, 14B Turbo, FMIC, Stock Boost, custom piping and exhaust

 

[crimsondragon]

The only thing I'll answer on here is the loudness of the turbo. Everything else can easily be searched for.

With the proper mods, you can hear the turbo clearly spool up when driving. A boost leak will not overpower the sound of the engine+turbo. But you will hear and feel the effects of it.

 

[spectr019]

hey, welcome to the 2G club!! So personally it bothers me when somebody spends more words telling you to search for something than to answer you, ESPECIALLY when that was your FIRST post. But to hopefully save myself from getting yelled at now by somebody who probably will take offense to that, you'll save yourself some thumbs down faces and such later on if you do search.
Your stock turbo (assuming that it IS the stock turbo) on your 2G (95-99) is the T25. I THINK it's a different one on an automatic 2G, but I'm not certain. Mitsubishi wanted a better 'responding' turbo for their 2G, and that's what they came up with. It flows less than your daily driver 14b, ESPECIALLY at top end and even in the mid. Even porting it is pretty much worthless. But as bad a turbo as it is, you can still get pretty decent power out of it with simple bolt ones and ultimately a nice tune. First thing's first - Allow the turbo to breathe unrestrictedly. Since a turbo works off of exhaust gases, it's maybe wisest (people have their own opinions on this, this is MINE) to start with the exhaust. It would be ideal to do all of these pieces together, but if you don't have the money right now and don't want to wait, I would say start with the exhaust. Get a 2.5" or 3" (depending on your ultimate goals) cat-back exhaust. Then do a 2.5" or 3" downpipe (get rid of the cat or get a higher flowing unit. For N/A cars, it's a difference of MAYBE 1 or 2 horses, but on a turbo vehicle is makes a world of change). After that do the O2 housing. When you get to the O2 housing, I would say get it ported now instead of later. Finally for the exhaust, get a higher flowing exhaust manifold (you can even port the 2G manifold since it has proven to be a pretty durable unit. Again, this is just depending on what your goals are). So there is the exhaust all done. By now you'll be noticing an increase in boost pressure as well as a little more lag, but not much, especially on the T25. You'll also hear the spool a little more. Now for the intake, it is important to get a cone filter. I've seen some people get away with keeping the plastic charge pipe, but I would personally just say get a hard pipe. Also, get hard intercooler pipes - the bottom j-pipe and the upper pipes. When you do this you'll want to get an aftermarket blow off valve or a 1G blow off valve. A good majority of the kits you'll find are flanged for a GReddy bov, but you can always drill holes to fit whatever. You can find nice intercooler pipes on ebay, just use 3-4 ply silicon couplers, not the ones that will come with the kit. Also, use T-bolt clamps. Too many times when I started out did I freak the hell out by my intercooler pipes coming undone because of shitty couplers.
As for the seafoam, I have absolutely no idea. There's your first search project right there
Alright well I hope that I could help you out there. oh oh also for your questions on upgrading paths, check out the "upgrading paths" under the 'tech' tab. Probably would have saved me a bunch of typing, but hey, it was fun anyway. Alright go to it, and have a good time!!

Ben

 

[whiteflash]

*Both the auto and manual 2g's have the t25, and it is a pretty loud spooling sound. Alot louder than the 14b.

Tech Guide: 2G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtuners

 

[crimsondragon]

It's nice to have people do the work for you isn't it? Don't get used to it. Since I have been called out on providing more words on searching then actual advice, let me give my own opinions on what should be a more logical mod plan. I believe exhaust should come later. Why? Because mainly of boost creep. Instead, invest in more reasonable things such as a boost gauge. Or do some free mods first. Best thing to do is get a boost controller as well. You got learn to walk before you can run. Our main power adders are bigger turbo. Remember, each mod we do is to unlock more power of the turbo. Don't expect to run 10's with a restrictive exhaust or a stock fuel system. Boost creep is something not to be taken lightly which is why I say to keep the stock exhaust to prevent the creep. Read the FAQs on the forum, and also study www.vfaq.com

Also all 2g's except the N/A run the T-25. Doesnt matter if you're auto, manual, Talon, or a Mitsubishi.

 

[knochgoon24]

I can hear my T-25 clear as day, and I haven't done any underhood mods but a BOV.

 

[turbodsmawd420]

+2. You can definately here the T25 even with stock level mods.

 

[lgoss5127]

the oil leaking in the valve cover is an easy one. the seals on the cap are bad. you can probably find one on the internet for really cheap.

 

[spectr019]

I agree with Crimson Dragon on the boost gauge and boost controller, absolutely. And now I learned that the a/t also has the t25, so thanks yall!! I didn't think too much about boost creep with exhaust first - a good majority of my exhaust was my main first modification and I didn't have any problems with it, but that certainly doesn't mean it won't happen!

Ben