6-bolt swap in a 2g ECU question

[Kalisko]

Is there anywhere that I can get my ECU burnt for a 6-bolt swap specifically for eliminating sensors etc that will flag my CEL?

 

[bane3d]

Have you done the swap already and are getting a CEL or are you worried about a CEL after your swap? I didn't get a CEL after mine but I kept my 2G head. That seems the best way to keep it from happening imo. There are also work arounds for this and I believe RRE's site has it documented here: RRE's Eclipse 2g Turbo to 1g Head Swap Tips

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[snowborder714]

What sensors are you talking about specifically?

If you're talking about the common misfire CEL code, DSMlink will be able to make the ECU not to see/throw that code. It will also allow you to get rid of some solenoids as well.

 

[bane3d]

I thought it was because the CAS signal is inverted commonly in a 6 bolt swap and DSMlink allows you to compensate for this. By putting a 2G head on a 6 bolt, it allows you to reuse both of your sensors (crank and cam) without having to worry about getting a CEL. I wasn't 100% sure on that so didn't post that information. I just didn't feel comfortable putting this in writing without being absolutely sure. Please someone chime in and correct me if I'm wrong. Original poster, please don't take what I say for truth. I'm actually asking to make sure I have my information correct.

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[snowborder714]

The CAS inversion has to do with putting a '95 ECU in with a 1g or '97-'99 CAS. If the OP were to keep his head and sensors, he wouldn't have to check this as the CAS signal is already inverted. Here's the info about that from DSMlink's site:

- What does CAS inversion mean?

For 1G DSMLink, nothing. For the 2G guys, the '95-'96 style Cam Angle Sensor (CAS) sends out a signal that's electrically "inverted" from other DSM cam sensors (1G or '97+ style). When you put a '95 ECU into a car with a non-95 CAS, the ECU ends up swapping the firing order of the injectors. In most cases, this produces very little noticeable difference in drive quality. But we offer the option to invert the CAS signal anyway just in case. You can selectively invert this signal with the DSMLink software as you wish. You will still need to swap your spark wires, though. We can't control spark firing order in the EPROM at crank time. So even with CAS inversion, you still have to swap plug wire 1 with 2 and 3 with 4.

What I am talking about is the misfire code(s) people commonly get when doing a 1g swap. I don't know if it happens with specific CAS's or not though. My car used to have the pot mod done to it to eliminate the CEL. Now I have DSMlink do it. My brother had unchecked the box that stops the ECU from looking for that specific CEL earlier this year and I was really confused as to why I was getting misfire and cylinder 1 misfire codes. And that's why - because the box was unchecked. I would get them every few miles or so. But DSMlink will handle almost any CEL problems that I have.

 

[Kalisko]

Well the CEL Codes I got were many.

second o2 sensor code. DUe to having a turbo back exhaust that doesn't have a 2nd o2 bung.

EGR valve.

Temperature Sensor

a couple other..I just can't remember right now at work.

Knock sensor too, but I plugged that in after looking at it.

The reason that I'm asking is because I had the swap done at a local shop beings I didn't have the time. I get the car back and I have 7+ CEL Codes going off. and the car idles like shit.

 

[Kalisko]

Also I believe all those CEL codes led to the destruction of my vehicle. I had the car a week after getting it back from the shop and put maybe 150 miles on it, and the motor seized up. I have pics on my myspace.

MySpace.com - NaPaLm - 20 - Male - INDIANA - www.myspace.com/kalisko.

OH and also another CEL code that was going off was the speed sensor. This was due to them leaving no speed sensor in the transmission, letting at least of quart of gear oil spew out while driving around clueless.

 

[snowborder714]

Wow, uh, never go back there again.

Those codes should have nothing to do with the swap if it was done properly (which it sounds like it wasn't). I can't look at what DSMlink can block right now since I'm not near my car. The program won't make those go away though as they're important ones. It can temporarily clear them, but that's about it.

I would get all your codes ran (if your car is running and throwing them right now) and then start trying to fix each of them.

Here's a suggestion if you don't want to get a bung welded on for your rear o2 sensor:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/274546-my-busy-morning-work-making-car-parts.html

 

[Kalisko]

Yeah I figured..Just the fact that they didn't even run the car after they did the swap. Just let it idle for 5 minutes and said it was done.
But I fixed the knock sensorand speed sensor. The codes that are popping up now are the EGR, o2, a temperature gauge sensor malfunction, and a couple other. I'll get it ran when i get the car back from the shop, which will hopefully be within a week. But thanks for all the help with it. I have a feeling it is idling like crap because the mass amount of not working sensors.

 

[Kalisko]

wow..that o2 simulator is exactly what I've been searching for. Is that it? just make a simulator like that and the codes will go away? Also, Where can I get just the plug for the o2 sensor so I can just splice it and have a plug that way it'll be easier to plug it in.

 

[snowborder714]

If you still have your rear o2 sensor, just cut the plug off. If not, go to a junkyard and get one. Then go to this tech article (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...making-your-own-rear-o2-bypass-simulator.html) and the 4th picture will show you how to wire the simulator up to the o2 plug.

 

[Kalisko]

Ok I made my own o2 sensor using that guide. the only thing that radioshack didn't have in stock was a 1 Meghom resistor..so I got a 64 - ohm. Will that still work? if not I can go back I guess before my car gets out of the shop. Let me know because I'm about to box it up into my box and would rather fix it while it's open.

 

[snowborder714]

That is something I'm not sure of, as I'm not an electrical expert. But, if I had to guess, I'd say it probably wouldn't. The hierarchy goes Ohm, kOhm, and them MOhm.

You could either a) try it and see if it works or b) take it back and find an Mohm resistor. I would personally go with choice b.

 

[Kalisko]

for the sake of figuring this out..I'm going to just box it up and wait and plug it up myself. This is supposed to clear the 2nd o2 out of the check engine light right? I'll update you guys within a week if this works, if not I'll just pop it out and replace it with the correct ones. Thanks again, there's one more check engine light code down ..

 

[snowborder714]

If it works correctly, it shouldn't throw that CEL after you hook it up. Hopefully it works!