Cutting, turning, and welding a stock T25 turbo outlet

[r6speed]

So I am getting ready to cutt off the outlet of my T25 spin it and weld it back on so I can get better air flow with my FMIC. Although the turbo is made out of like a cast iron and I am wanting to use a wire feed welder...any suggestions on how to do this? I dont want to melt it down or screw it up.

Thanks in advance

 

[Black95awd]

WTFthe compressor cover is make of cast aluminum. that being said, and you not knowing Iron from Aluminum I would suggest finding someone to do it.

 

[r6speed]

WTFthe compressor cover is make of cast aluminum. that being said, and you not knowing Iron from Aluminum I would suggest finding someone to do it.

Ya your right, I knew it was cast something. My goal is to not have this horrilbe 180 degree turn coming out of my turbo and heading back towards the driver side to hit my FMIC.
Still cerious to know (so that I know where to take it) is it possible to wire weld this? Or am I going to have to take it to someone with a stick welder so that they can use the right rods? Or is this going to have to be done with an aluminum welder?

EDIT: I was thinking part of the turbo was made of steel and part of aluminum. Seems weird to me that you would bolt a big chunk of aluminum to the exhaust manifold...I know it doesn't but I would think it would melt more often than crack...

 

[cyclonekid77]

i worked in a metal shop over the summer and im pretty sure you can only weld aluminum with an aluminum welder.

 

[TrboANTsi]

i cut the elbow off my t25 to make it down facing in case i blow my big turbo i can swap it out and use my fmic.

 

[absolute_DSM]

Ya your right, I knew it was cast something. My goal is to not have this horrilbe 180 degree turn coming out of my turbo and heading back towards the driver side to hit my FMIC.
Still cerious to know (so that I know where to take it) is it possible to wire weld this? Or am I going to have to take it to someone with a stick welder so that they can use the right rods? Or is this going to have to be done with an aluminum welder?

I will 2nd what Black95AWD just said.

If youre not even knowing what material it is, or even how to weld aluminum, there is no chance you can make this look decent and hold boost.

To weld aluminum, you can us a TIG set on AC, which is what I highly suggest. You can MIG it with a spool gun with a little preheating, but its not as pretty. Plus its a very quick weld.

Find a guy that can TIG aluminum and pay him some beer and youll be set. Make sure you prep it VERY well because aluminum gets dirty very easily. Ive actually never seen someone do this so if you do, post back with pics. Hell, ship it to me and Ill do it for you.

Personally, with your tools and knowledge, you could make it easy, hack off the 90* bend, clock the turbo and call it good.

 

[Black95awd]

Ya your right, I knew it was cast something. My goal is to not have this horrilbe 180 degree turn coming out of my turbo and heading back towards the driver side to hit my FMIC.
Still cerious to know (so that I know where to take it) is it possible to wire weld this? Or am I going to have to take it to someone with a stick welder so that they can use the right rods? Or is this going to have to be done with an aluminum welder?

EDIT: I was thinking part of the turbo was made of steel and part of aluminum. Seems weird to me that you would bolt a big chunk of aluminum to the exhaust manifold...I know it doesn't but I would think it would melt more often than crack...

turbine side is iron, compressor side is aluminum. I would cut the elbow off and use a PTE elbow to weld back on.

i worked in a metal shop over the summer and im pretty sure you can only weld aluminum with an aluminum welder.

you can use a mig, but you need to use argon and aluminum wire. Tig is preferred method, it will penetrate better.

 

[DGajre777]

Why don't you just cut part of the 90 degree bend on the compressor housing and get a 90 degree coupler?? You are making this way more complicated than it is.

 

[r6speed]

Why don't you just cut part of the 90 degree bend on the compressor housing and get a 90 degree coupler?? You are making this way more complicated than it is.

Not a bad idea realy, only thing I am thinking is if it was that easy why don't all turbos come this way even stock and just use a coupler? There has to be a reason.

i cut the elbow off my t25 to make it down facing in case i blow my big turbo i can swap it out and use my fmic.

Some more info on HOW you welded it would be nice

Find a guy that can TIG aluminum and pay him some beer and youll be set. Make sure you prep it VERY well because aluminum gets dirty very easily. Ive actually never seen someone do this so if you do, post back with pics.

Yes your right I will just pull it off and take it down somewhere that knows what they are doing. And I will be posting pics asap!
Thanks for all the help guys

 

[turbosax2]

Not a bad idea realy, only thing I am thinking is if it was that easy why don't all turbos come this way even stock and just use a coupler? There has to be a reason.

The 90* couplers are fairly expensive so it's probably cheaper to make the compressor housing with a bend in it. In your case the 90* coupler is most likely cheaper than having somebody weld the elbow back on.

 

[absolute_DSM]

Why don't you just cut part of the 90 degree bend on the compressor housing and get a 90 degree coupler?? You are making this way more complicated than it is.

EXACTLY. The 90* elbow on a T25 is pretty useless in anything but a stock SMIC setup.

Just make sure if you do it this way, run a bead around the lip so you dont blow off the coupler on the turbo.

 

[r6speed]

So now I am really thinking about dong the 90 degree coupler...anyone know where I could get a
1 1/2" 90 degree coupler? or even better a 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" reducing 90 degree coupler?

 

[r6speed]

well If I am going to have to have a bead welded then I might as well just take it down and have it welded

And yes you were right I made it harder than it had to be, that is a great idea, but I might as well just have them weld it on at that poing

 

[turbosax2]

Ive actually never seen someone do this so if you do, post back with pics. Hell, ship it to me and Ill do it for you.

wret has done it:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...hose-who-want-fmic-big-t28.html#post151361976

So now I am really thinking about dong the 90 degree coupler...anyone know where I could get a
1 1/2" 90 degree coupler? or even better a 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" reducing 90 degree coupler?

1 1/2"? Dang, is it really that small?

 

[r6speed]

yup, well I think the ID is 1 1/2 actually, but ya its really small, BTW Dejon makes a J pipe for this install if you don't mind waiting, I am wanting to do this first thing in the morning (have a race tomorrow afternoon) thats the only reason I am not buying that. And thanks for the thread post

 

[turbosax2]

You need the od measurement if you were going to buy a coupler for it. And I think you meant ETS has the piece, not Dejon?

 

[r6speed]

I am reading this thread and to do this I have to extend it and inch or more also so it doesn't hit the heat sheald bung coming off the turbo.

No dejon sells one DEJON | Powerhouse under 2g FMICs towards the bottom of the page

 

[r6speed]

I just looked at ETS and theres is almost half the cost so I can afford to have it overnighted...I think i am going that route. So if anyone is looking for one ETS is 65 + shipping ETS (95-99) 2G DSM Eclipse/Talon T25 Pipe [ 2GDSM_T25 ]

 

[absolute_DSM]

Even if you order it overnighted right now, they arent open. They wouldnt process the order until tomorrow.

65 bucks for that... Man, Im glad I can weld. Like I said before just take a guy with a TIG that can do AC for aluminum some beer and youll be set.

What race is so important tomorrow that requires a FMIC?

 

[r6speed]

the FMIC is already on, it has been for months. I had an exhaust shop make me one but its bad...really bad, I beleave it to be the reason for "feul cut symptoms". But maybe your right, I should just have it welded, but then I have to get a peice to add to it because (look at pics in other thread) it will not clear the heat sheild bung unless you add an inch to it.


EDIT: By the way its 65 + 55 for overnight shipping

 

[Black95awd]

the FMIC is already on, it has been for months. I had an exhaust shop make me one but its bad...really bad, I beleave it to be the reason for "feul cut symptoms". But maybe your right, I should just have it welded, but then I have to get a peice to add to it because (look at pics in other thread) it will not clear the heat sheild bung unless you add an inch to it.


EDIT: By the way its 65 + 55 for overnight shipping

by the looks of that pic you can flip it and do a small pie cut to angle the outlet down and away from the mounting nub on the turbine side... or grind the "nub" off.....

 

[r6speed]

I'm thinking maybe have it welded and cutt of the nub and just leave that bolt off? Or is it better to just leave the heat sheild off?

 

[Black95awd]

now that I think about it oyu will want something sheilding the silicone. that turbine housing get hotter than a whores ass on pay day.

 

[r6speed]

that turbine housing get hotter than a whores ass on pay day.

Loving it ^ Ok the sheild stays on but is missing a bolt, sound good?

 

[Black95awd]

heat sheild stays on and still pie cut the compressor cover see paint below, pardon the bad paint sketch.

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