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03-03-2008, 07:08 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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New Member/Lurker
From: elkhart, Indiana
Registered: Sep 2005
Posts: 13
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1g fuel rail tap size?(afpr setup)
I have done the search and at least found a couple of answers, but the reality is i need a straight answer for the following...
Tap size for the fuel rail to put in a -6 an fitting, which is what i intend to run to and from the rail.
Aeromotive regulator 13109.
I intend to run the regulator right from a 90 cast angle from the rail, but refuse to pay the almighty dollar for the conversion fitting.
Findings on the search include one member using a 3/4npt/-6an fitting(only available in straight), and another person using a 3/8npt/-6an. WTH? HUGE DIFFERENCE IN SIZE!!!
Any clarification would greatly be appreciated!!!
Thankx 
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03-04-2008, 08:30 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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New Member/Lurker
From: elkhart, Indiana
Registered: Sep 2005
Posts: 13
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bump......WISEMAN?..........
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03-04-2008, 08:52 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Boise, Idaho
Region: Rocky Mountain
Registered: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,474
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Ugh, this isnt a Honda forum, dont bump your post. If Defiant sees this consider it closed.
I easily use a M18x1.5 tap with a M18 to -6 or -8 AN adapter fitting.
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Eric
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03-04-2008, 09:12 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Whittier, California
Region: SoCal
Registered: Jul 2004
Posts: 125
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I tapped my rail with a 3/4"-16 tap.
Fittings:
-6 w/ o-ring
-6 90* w/ o-ring
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03-04-2008, 09:12 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Boise, Idaho
Region: Rocky Mountain
Registered: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,474
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^ True. I use ANplumbing for all Earl fittings and they are great to deal with. They have never caused me any problems or not been able to get a part for me.
Plus with NPT fittings you wouldnt need the aluminum crush washers  Ill have to remember that.
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Eric
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03-04-2008, 09:22 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman
From: Chesterfield, Virginia
Region: Mid Atlantic
Registered: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boosting_laser
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Why does the 90* fitting have left hand threads? I think that may be the wrong part #.
Another advantage to using npt as opposed to metric or sae straight threads is oreintation of angled fittings when tight. With o-rings or crush washers, once it is tight, it is tight. If it is a 90* fitting and pointed 180* opposite of what it needs to be, the only remedy is to start indexing (stacking crush washers or o-rings until it points to where it needs to) which is prone to leak. With npt fittings, once tight, you should have at least120* of adjustment tighter to get the optimal oreintation of the fitting.
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Keith
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03-04-2008, 09:33 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Boise, Idaho
Region: Rocky Mountain
Registered: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,474
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92awddsm
Another advantage to using npt as opposed to metric or sae straight threads is oreintation of angled fittings when tight. With o-rings or crush washers, once it is tight, it is tight. If it is a 90* fitting and pointed 180* opposite of what it needs to be, the only remedy is to start indexing (stacking crush washers or o-rings until it points to where it needs to) which is prone to leak. With npt fittings, once tight, you should have at least120* of adjustment tighter to get the optimal oreintation of the fitting.
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Well put. It may cost more, but I use straight AN adapters, then 90* swivels.
Ill learn how to save money eventually.
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Eric
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03-05-2008, 02:00 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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New Member/Lurker
From: elkhart, Indiana
Registered: Sep 2005
Posts: 13
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Sorry for the bump, but................
 Thankx for the info fellaz!!! Feel free to add more, as I said this (old-previous)info is a little skechy!
Also, is there enough room on the driver's side to run a 3/8-6an staight fitting and a -6an 90* with swivels without hitting the covers? Any pics?
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03-17-2008, 06:40 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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New Member/Lurker
From: Wonder Lake, Illinois
Region: Midwest
Registered: Aug 2006
Posts: 2
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leaky
A few months ago I tapped an extra fuel rail for 3/8" npt and I'm using 3/8 to -6 an fittings from earl's. I just installed it yesterday along with an AFPR. I've tried twice now (removing and tightening) to get the NPT side of the adapter to NOT LEAK. The second time I really cranked on the fuel rail while using a screwdriver thru one of the 3 mounting holes along with keeping the rail portion held in a bench vice. This worked better than the first time, but I still have an extremely slight leak. At this point I'm tempted to jb weld the threads...
Any suggestions? Any one else have these problems? Should I not use teflon tape?
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03-17-2008, 07:11 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman
From: Chesterfield, Virginia
Region: Mid Atlantic
Registered: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,709
Reputation:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricR287
A few months ago I tapped an extra fuel rail for 3/8" npt and I'm using 3/8 to -6 an fittings from earl's. I just installed it yesterday along with an AFPR. I've tried twice now (removing and tightening) to get the NPT side of the adapter to NOT LEAK. The second time I really cranked on the fuel rail while using a screwdriver thru one of the 3 mounting holes along with keeping the rail portion held in a bench vice. This worked better than the first time, but I still have an extremely slight leak. At this point I'm tempted to jb weld the threads...
Any suggestions? Any one else have these problems? Should I not use teflon tape?
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You have to use a fuel safe sealer or tape. All tapered pipe threads need some sort of seler on them.
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Keith
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03-17-2008, 07:42 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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New Member/Lurker
From: Wonder Lake, Illinois
Region: Midwest
Registered: Aug 2006
Posts: 2
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I bet it's the home plumbing kind of teflon tape I'm using. I didn't realize it would make a difference. Thanks!
Edit: after searching around I found that loctite 567 is supposed to work very well.
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