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Maf-t/Eprom/1000cc's

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blownturbotsi

15+ Year Contributor
408
1
Jun 21, 2005
Jupiter, Florida
So, what the hell is up with my car? Backing story:

I have a Translator that I've been using for a while with my 660's. I finally got 1000's and an Eprom. I got a chip burned for the 1000's, but the ECU ended up not working. So I went to a friend's house to check out my chip in their ECU. It fired and instantly died. So this happened multiple times. We went and reburned the chip for 650's and it started and idled (a bit low) and drove somewhat smooth. Now I have yet to return the non-working ECU, but I'm back on the stock ECU for the time being with the 1000's and no tune.

I accidentally left the Translator on 450's for injectors and it's been running much better than it should. I haven't pushed the car at all or even gone over 3000 rpm for that matter, but it doesn't really enjoy being put back on 1000's in the Translator. I'm wondering what is up with my Translator?? Any help?
 
Well From All The Cars Ive Seen Tuning 1000cc Injectors Isnt Easy Especially For A Dd, But I Have A Translator And To Be Honest Tuning With Is Very Basic And Tends To Leave You Ruff, If You Are Trying To Get 1000cc To Idle You Might Look Into Something That Give ,s You Better Tuneablility. I Use 770,s And Zeroed Out My Maft And Tune With A Safc2,,, For You Id Recomend Dsmlink Im Sure That Will Let You Dial In Those Bigger Injectors,, Good Luck Tho.
 
If you have the chip burned for 1000ccs, leave the MAFT at the stock injector setting.

I don't have a working Eprom yet, that's what I'm saying. I only have the translator to use for the time being.

Also, an additional question. I have always had to set my Idle setting on the Translator to max richness for it to idle correctly. If it's zero'd out the car won't run, even with an Eprom and chip burned for those injectors. When I had my 660's it was the same, would have to be maxed on rich on the Idle setting. Anyone else having this problem?
 
Anyone else having this problem?
I'm 99% sure mine is at max-rich for idle with the same setup (compensated chip for the 1000cc and MAF-T). I purchased the vehicle with this setup and have yet to fool with the idle.
 
Tunerpro R/T and an Ostrich 2.0 emulator, you can also go Ds-map with the tuning hardware and a ait and map sensor (AEM). Ditch the translator/s-afc, thats all hack-shit. E-Prom editing is a cinch and tunerpro is the easiest program ever. I don't care, DSMLINK is queer, overpriced, and weak, argue against this and you are a fool. Edit your own code.
 
If I remember correctly, MAF-Ts, like SAFCs are only rated up to 660 injectors. Any tuning with them past that injector size is impossible.

With an EPROM chip to compensate for it, tuning becomes possible. Theoretically, the 1000's should act like stock, and the limitations for tuning will go from there.
 
Tunerpro R/T and an Ostrich 2.0 emulator, you can also go Ds-map with the tuning hardware and a ait and map sensor (AEM). Ditch the translator/s-afc, thats all hack-shit. E-Prom editing is a cinch and tunerpro is the easiest program ever. I don't care, DSMLINK is queer, overpriced, and weak, argue against this and you are a fool. Edit your own code.

Crappiest response to a legitimate question *EVER*. DSMLINK is not overpriced by any means and is a great solution and would definitely be useful in this scenario.
 
Have you tried to set up the maf-t to comepensate for the injectors. Buddy of mine ran 1000cc injectors with a maf-t on a huge t3/t4 setup and made great power. Only tuning off the maf-t and did it for years.

The maf-t is actually known to tune up to 1000cc injectors without issues and doesnt shoot timing way up like an safc, at least not in my buddys scenerio. Get a wbo2 and tune that maf-t to a good afr.
 
Have you tried to set up the maf-t to comepensate for the injectors. Buddy of mine ran 1000cc injectors with a maf-t on a huge t3/t4 setup and made great power. Only tuning off the maf-t and did it for years.

The maf-t is actually known to tune up to 1000cc injectors without issues and doesnt shoot timing way up like an safc, at least not in my buddys scenerio. Get a wbo2 and tune that maf-t to a good afr.

I had a MAF-T prior to DSMLINK, and had problems with timing going up even with 650cc's. Maybe your buddy had the base timing way down?? Who knows. The MAF-T is nice and all, but I honestly wouldn't try to use it for a tuning device, its settings are too vague.
 
http://www.fullthrottlenetwork.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=37&d=1093665074

Look at page 3 under Initial Setup.

Have you tried to set up the maf-t to comepensate for the injectors. Buddy of mine ran 1000cc injectors with a maf-t on a huge t3/t4 setup and made great power. Only tuning off the maf-t and did it for years.

The maf-t is actually known to tune up to 1000cc injectors without issues and doesnt shoot timing way up like an safc, at least not in my buddys scenerio. Get a wbo2 and tune that maf-t to a good afr.

I always thought that the MAF-T Gen 1 (the original one) was known to have a max tunability limit of 550cc injectors.
 
Have you tried to set up the maf-t to comepensate for the injectors. Buddy of mine ran 1000cc injectors with a maf-t on a huge t3/t4 setup and made great power. Only tuning off the maf-t and did it for years.

The maf-t is actually known to tune up to 1000cc injectors without issues and doesnt shoot timing way up like an safc, at least not in my buddys scenerio. Get a wbo2 and tune that maf-t to a good afr.

It will work. It is not fun to tune. Don't recommend this to a newb. No offence to the OP. . . However, whether or not he knows aything about anything, it takes much time and a base timing retard to begin to tune a MAFT and 1000cc injectors. After you tackle WOT timing, you'll have incredible dead time issues. It is possible. It is also possible to save the time and a headache. I mean. . . sh!t floats, but it makes a terrible life preserver.

From personal experience anything over 650s becomes a b!tch. 1000cc injectors ALWAYS have incredibly high deadtimes. The dead time KILLS idle. The idle knob has to be richened up so very much that it affects the mid trim hertz curve. Because of high deadtime, the high trim needs more fuel at the lower flows ofhe high trim hertz range, but less at the higher high trim flows. Yet, the MID knob-- the next to tune after the idle-- does the opposite when richened up. And completey *screws* your transition from closed loop to open loop when leaned out enough for lower high trim flows.

With WOT tuning, you have to retard your base timing. Or you will destroy your engine. Unless yu never go wideopen. Who wants to see 30 degrees of timing at 20psi and pumpgas? :toobad: The problem with this is base timing now is retarded for cruise and light throttle. . .It's drivable, but subpar gas mileage and a "lazy" street car is what you will enjoy. Along with the tip-in issues, and mid trim bogging.



OP, just wait for your eprom install. Yor car can run because the dead time is so high with the 1000cc injectors that a 450cc base tune allows it to idle and run light cruise.
 
I'm not going to try to tune it, I'm just waiting for the Eprom. I'll have it tuned later on by a friend of mine. He got it to run really well previously on the 660's with only the translator. I currently have it set for ~950's on compensation, idle is as rich as it can go, and mid and WOT are both zero'd for now.
 
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