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Tranny bolt fell out....

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keithscianna

Banned Member
78
0
Oct 20, 2006
denver, Colorado
Well today i went into the mountains(12,000ft). After the drive up i get to the top and turn off the car. a few mins later i go to start it and it wont start, after a few mins i figure out that the clutch was not hitting the switch at the pedal. So i fixed it and started it up, right after i started it, the engine and trans where vibrating alot and shaking badly. So i turn it off and started it back up and it was fine. But when i push in the clutch now i get a loud squeeling, and it is only when the clutch is half way in. So i get home and loot at the tranny and the top bolt ont he tranny is off. I figure that all the vib made the bolt come out. I want to make sure there is no more that came out. where are all the tranny bolts i should look for? Also would the bolt coming out cause the clutch to squeel? and would adjusing the master cylinder rod at the pedal make the squeeling go away?

thanks,
 
would a missing bolt cause the squeeling? i was alos thinking it could be a TOB. but the way it happend would not make sence.
 
looking for answers to my problem, but here's a picture that might help you find some tranny bolts...


if you look right along with the engine mount holes, on the bottom of the block, where the banjo screw is for the clutch, you can see where the bolt goes through. there is a corresponding one in the same place on the other side of the tranny.

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I had this exact same problem last week.. Also coming home from boarding at copper mtn! Every time i'd barely touch my clutch the car would shake, die and squeel.. Thought i had crankwalk, but my tranny bolt was loose too.
 
I had a very similar problem except I didnt notice it until it was too late! There is a bolt on the firewall side by the motor mount(easier to get it from the bottom)that fell out and went unnoticed, then somewhere along the way of my high speeds and high rpms, a second bolt fell out which was abruptly brought to my attention. I luanch pretty hard(not knowing two of four bolt were missing!)I heard this awful noice, then it was so bad, it still was driving still but I knew was wrong, I pull over to a stallout. Try to srart the bi*** wierd noise and not fully disengaged clutch. Got a tow home, tore it apart...

:cry:

Well the tranny bolt in the front of the car took a chunk of the block out because the tranny twisted, causeing a plethura of problems. The through-out bearing guide sleeve that covers the tranny's input spline was busted. I got new tranny and made a custom welded bolt/nut into the front motor mount. Bolted up nice ran good for a bit... then it started consuming or rather drinking water/coolant... nect thing I know after about a month of driving or so the engine warms up and gets the oil nice and thin or some shit and just pukes oil from what seems to be around the head block surface... wierd thing is... every time that happened another wierd thing occured, the metal return pipe for coolant became loose and blew off between the water pump and pipe. I dont know what the ####! dont let this happen to you! get some red lock tight and use the #### out of it! I used it on my head bolts the new tranny bolts and other places I couldn't afford to loose a bolt!
 
If I remember correctly they are are m12 1.25 thread pitch but dont quote that, auto stores have them, take in one that you have, they will measure it, and buy some damn lock tight while your there you'll be glad later...
 
Well i just went and got some bolts.... All the wrong size... M12 1.25 was too big.
Also i went to check the other botls and the other top botl was finger loose!!! so i went to tighten it and nothing happend.... It would not tighten!! Is the bolt the wrong size? why would it not tighten?

thanks,
 
CAPS # - Mitsubishi # - Size - Price

20999S - MF140021 - 8 X 12 - $0.29
20999P - MF241223 - 6 X 1 - $0.80
20999V - MF140271 - 10 X 65 - $1.46
20999Y - MD740892 - 10 X 43.5 - $1.89
20999U - MF140266 - 10 X 40 - $1.05
20999Q - MD706012 - 8 X 6 - $1.53

OEM Mitsubishi Parts
 

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Ok well i went to the junkyard and got the correct size. When i got home i was still having a B**CH of a time getting them to catch the thread. Well then i noticed that the whole transmission was not lined up with the holes. Then i located the inverted bolt on the bottom of the trans, And it was finger loose as well. So now my whole trans is on by one bolt. I cant line it up to get the bolts in. What is an easy way to line it up? maybe with a jack?

thanks,
 
This is one of the most frustrating things i have done in a looooooooong time. I got one of the top ones in flush, And the bottom inverted one is almost in all the way. But it is REALLY REALLY hard to turn. The only problem is the last top one. It wont line up correctly, even witht he other 3 in place. What can i do to get the last bolt fluch and tight..

thanks
 
When I was trying to get my transmission bolted up I had the same issue. It was easy to get the top bolts in but then it was hard to get the other ones lined up. I loosened the other transmission bolts so the transmission wasn't binding. Don't take the other transmission bolts completely out. This should give you some wiggle room. Hopefully that helps.
 
You say you were driving with only one tight bolt? Sounds pretty dreadful... I would drop it out and make sure nothing is cracked but I dont know how easy that would be for you to do. Definitly a couple hours worth of work dropping a tranny by yourself. not to mention install. They are b*tches to reinstall though, I hope you didnt do the same thing that I did... not fun!
 
Is those bolt sizes for a1g?
yes, both for 1g and 2g (4g63), one of those bolts goes un-used if you have 2g tranny 1g engine. And although i did not see it being mentioned, i have a suspicion; it appears that the original op might have been missing the guide pins that hold the tranny in-place to allow for the bolts to line up, so i recommend to you(420) that you replace your guides if you need them.
 
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