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Punishment 2G IC pipes, no 1G bov love...

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OddNotion

15+ Year Contributor
135
3
Jan 15, 2006
Fairfax, Virginia
The Punishment Racing 2G Intercooler Pipe kit looks nice, but there's no provision for a 1G BOV.........

It comes flanged for a greddy BOV I believe.

After asking them about the lack of a 1G flange they said they might produce a run if demand was high enough so those of you who think $139 shipped for IC pipes is a steal, but want to use the 1G, PLEASE TELL THEM!
 
Research rendered little satisfaction as to how easily, or reliably, one could mount a 1G BOV on a Greddy mount. Having it welded is an option, but why not just have the Vendor do it right the first time?

Jusmx141, since you got the Greddy flange to work I would be interested in knowing more about it too if it doesn't require something like 8 gaskets and half a tube of RTV... ;)

The point of the thread however, is to lobby Punishment to supply something so...

POST HERE IF YOU WANT THEM TO MAKE THE 1G FLANGED PIPES!
 
We modified the 1G BOV on my buddy's 2G to fit a Greddy flange because the piping he bought was flanged for Greddy but he couldn't justify spending another $150+ on a blowoff valve with a fairly alarming failure rate; so we modified the 1G valve to fit.

I'll post pics of this once the car is unburied from the snow we've gotten over the past 2 days.

- Start by tracing the Greddy gasket centered onto the base of the 1G BOV. Be sure to include the mounting holes when tracing.
- The next step is to trim the ends of the 1G BOV off just inside the mounting holes (toward the center of the valve.) You'll see how much will get trimmed off once you have traced the gasket onto the 1G valve. You can round the ends of the area you've trimmed once you're done if you'd like.
- Next, find a tap sized around 1/4". We used 1/4" x 20 bolts to mount the modified 1G BOV to the Greddy flange because there's not much clearance to go bigger.
- Drill and tap the mounting holes appropriately. Be careful when doing this....if you screw up, there's not enough room to put nuts on top of the valve anymore; you WILL need the holes in the valve to be threaded.
- Mount the valve to the flange using the Greddy gasket, a little RTV *just to be sure*, and lock washers on the mounting bolts. Again, I believe the bolt size be used was 1/4" x 20 x 3/4" long. You can't have too long of a bolt or it will not fit up into the mounting hole between the pipe and the flange.

Again, pics will follow as soon as possible.
 
Not sure why you're so adamant about properly tapping the flange for a screw. Just get a couple appropriate allen bolts (with washers) and it'll hold down.

I won't ever use the 1G or Greddy gaskets again (or any other similar gaskets). Using a fair amount of Ultra Black RTV will do the job every time.

What happened near the old boost source? Went a little too crazy with the drill bit? Looks like a really bad boost leak spot. Good luck getting it fixed. Might need to be filled-n-milled.
 
Not sure why you're so adamant about properly tapping the flange for a screw. Just get a couple appropriate allen bolts (with washers) and it'll hold down.
Impossible. On the side of the valve where the quick release chamber is, you cannot put a bolt in from the top because there is zero clearance. Not even an Allen could work properly.
I won't ever use the 1G or Greddy gaskets again (or any other similar gaskets). Using a fair amount of Ultra Black RTV will do the job every time.
I don't agree with this method at all. I will use RTV on either side of the gasket paper, but I still rely on the paper gasket itself to fill any gaps between the flange and the blow off valve. In many cases neither the valve or the flange are flat enough to do a "flange-fit" seal using just RTV.

What happened near the old boost source? Went a little too crazy with the drill bit? Looks like a really bad boost leak spot. Good luck getting it fixed. Might need to be filled-n-milled.
Not sure what you're talking about here, unless you mean the area where a little bit of JB Weld remains on the flange after I installed the plug that caps off the old source for the quick-release chamber. This very valve held 25psi on my buddy's 2G without leaks, so yeah.
 
I can't figure out how you cannot understand this.

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Explain how you're getting an Allen bolt's head squeezed between the quick-release transfer chamber and the center of the bolt hole.


I modified the valve the way I did for a specific reason. It's been tested, proven, and it saved my buddy from buying a $150 Greddy valve to fit his piping- so I figured I'd pass the useful information on how I constructed this valve on to other DSMer's who were asking. This isn't a topic that is up for discussion....simply a "how-to" regarding the valve I built.

If you think you can build one better, post it.
 

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Here is how I modified my 1g bov to fit on a Greddy flange. I used M5 bolts with lockwashers on top, and a flat washer and locknut on the bottom. This was the absolute biggest bolt I could use. There wasn't enough room to use a flat washer on top. By using this size bolt I was able to keep the new bolt holes out of the recess in the bov flange. I did it this way because I didn't want to tap the bov if I didn't have to, plus I knew if I screwed this up I could always drill the holes out bigger and tap them. Used a new Greddy gasket with black RTV. There is only 3mm of overlap between the bov flange and the Greddy flange in the front and back, so I'm wary of how well this will seal. The sides should seal fine because there is more overlap and the bolts are located there. I rounded off the edges, blasted, and powdercoated the bov to make it look nicer.

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