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what parts do you need to run 12s in a front wheel drive

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i've had a buddy run 12's on his awd talon with a 16g, however your gonna be looking at a lot of traction issues. I currently run a bigt28 on my fwd 2g (no LSD) and with traction issues I'm running around 14.7 best at the track, but i trap well over 100 and only like .5mph slower than my buddy running 12's. However on the highway I've pulled 2 cars on a car that runs 13.8 at the track. So your gonna be lookin at a lot of traction lose.
 
Urethane Motor Mounts are practically a requirement unless you enjoy replacing driveline parts. I'm not saying you're going to break everything the first time out, but you'll have a lot more fun and far fewer headaches with the mounts installed.

Also, as has already been stated, aside from the turbo upgrade, your skill as a driver is going to have the biggest impact on your times.
 
I have a 2g FWD in the fairly consistant low 12's.. I have a MPH enough for high 11's but traction is teh beast you're fighting here. you can get in the 12's with a 16g and supporting mods, if you can get it to hook up.. Slicks and motor mounts have been my 2 best friends in the quest for 11's, but i think i'm going to need a LSD because the more power i make i just end up spinning more. I run a quicker ET with less boost because i can hook up and go, but i still spin my 26'' slicks all through 2nd gear. Somewhere my buddy has a clip of my car lighting up the right front slick all through 2nd and smoke just pouring out of it as i went 12.10x at KCIR,, then i went 12.08x the next run doing the same thing, smokin all through 2nd

So you need at least

16g + supporting mods
motor mounts
slicks
and a Limited Slip Diff!

That should land you firmly in the 12's with a good driver, fast shifts and driving it like a 2-stroke dirtbike
 
what are the supporting mods? upgrade fuel system? fmic? things of this nature? what should be a good boost range? also will boosting high(20psi) with the 16g hurt your stock internals? i just rebuilt my engine. so im starting with a new slate. please let me know:)
 
what are the supporting mods? upgrade fuel system? fmic? things of this nature? what should be a good boost range? also will boosting high(20psi) with the 16g hurt your stock internals? i just rebuilt my engine. so im starting with a new slate. please let me know:)

Yes, supporting mods are just those things listed and other things of that nature. Injectors, some way to tune, fuel pump, FMIC etc, etc..

I am going out to try and break 11's here this month, i wish you luck on your quest for 12's ....... If nothing else get yourself a quaiffe and some good motor mounts and slicks. Those have been the 3 best time improving mods i've done to my car. I get such good traction now that i'm wanting to go down to a faster spooling turbo!!! BEfore i had to use the laggy'ness of the big turbo because it helped manetain traction when i was on a pegleg differential, but now i'm ready for a turbo that hits like a freight train :D

An you can run 20 psi all day, that's not high (well maybe for a honda, but not for our cars) I ran 20 daily on pump gas until i went to E85. Now i'm running as much boost as i can everyday...my wastegate spring is maxed out giving me 23-25 psi depending on weather( someitmes i get 25 in the cool night, i get 23 in the hot day) I run that everyday beating the car at least once per drive and i'm running a hell of a lot of timing. All this is on an old tired stock block and a fresh stock head (both 1g parts)
 
well what about a stage 1 or 2 weight reduct, stage one is cheap and easy, 2 is a bit more difficult, but that could at least shave off .5 poss 1 sec wouldn't it?

What the hell is stage one and stage two weight reduction LOL did i miss some kind of fast and the furious bulletin here? Rule of thumb is generally for every 100 pounds of unsprung weight you gain .1 seconds. Start with a/c, rear seats and if you can handle it the sound deadening and such. It all adds up over time.
 
What the hell is stage one and stage two weight reduction LOL did i miss some kind of fast and the furious bulletin here? Rule of thumb is generally for every 100 pounds of unsprung weight you gain .1 seconds. Start with a/c, rear seats and if you can handle it the sound deadening and such. It all adds up over time.


aside from being made fun of, try removing spare tire, bullshit interior peices, plexiglass windows, the list goes on, and on.
 
2nd on the question on what is stage one and two?

...are we in need for speed? I have a stage two boost controller and a stage seven bumper cover.

back to the thread. before you start bumping up power, check the health of your motor.
 
I myself have found 600(maybe 650+ pounds of useless crap to take out of the car Front or awd dont matter. Front drive weighs in at 2800ish awd is 3100ish.

All you need is a weekend. Wont cost you nothing but time and tools you already have.

You just have to get used to a completely striped car.

I have taken 200 out of mine looks bone stock inside the car, full interior.

Thats good for an easy .6 off your time.

Slicks, lsd, suspension (coilovers are best for fwd) and Some more engine mods.

Just make sure your car is in good overall condition.
 
As has been said, hitting 12's in an awd isn't all that hard with your basic bolt ons & 16g sized turbo. In a fwd its much harder. Last year I was making enough power for the car to run low 12's, no problem if it was awd but with a fwd in low profile street rubber I ran consistant mid 13's with traps around 113mph (running lower boost in 1st & 2nd & still breaking lose & spinning/hoping all over the place), though I've also ran the same times at 109 mph (less boost) as more power doesn't help as the car just breaks lose more. I think running 18" rims with 40 series tires is probably the biggest issue for me as they just don't have any sidewall flex. I've picked up some smaller rims & DR's, so hoping to see some mid 12's this year (can't run slicks with current brakes). If I don't, I'll be looking really hard for an awd doner car. So like Glenn has mentioned the most important things would be urthane motor mounts, slicks & a true LSD. Other then that, it would basically be all the standard bolt on's you'd use to run 12's on an awd. I would recommend a turbo of atleast the evoIII16g size or larger depending on your other goals.
 
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