Boost Controller Suggestions

[kevspyder]

Hey Guys,

I've been doing a little research on Boost Controllers. I think I'm headed toward the Hallman Evolution RX one. I'm looking for one that has a in cabin control on it.

Any other suggestions and past experience with the one you're using would be great help! Thanks so much.

Kevin

 

[kenamond]

In-cabin boost adjustment sounds like a good idea in theory, but I doubt you'll end up using it (or shouldn't be using it). What I figure you'll do is find out the maximum boost you can run safely and then it'll just stay there. If it's sitting there so easy to adjust, I could see someone cranking it up when they shouldn't just to catch up to someone who just blew your doors off...and then you blow your motor as a result.

I'd recommend just getting an under-hood model and saving yourself the money. I also don't know if the in-cabin boost controllers are bleeder-types. If they are, you could do better with a ball-spring model.

I like my Joe-P IL MBC. Cost $50, looks (and is) very high quality, and works perfectly (running 15psi and get spikes to 16psi).

 

[kevspyder]

In-cabin boost adjustment sounds like a good idea in theory, but I doubt you'll end up using it (or shouldn't be using it). What I figure you'll do is find out the maximum boost you can run safely and then it'll just stay there. If it's sitting there so easy to adjust, I could see someone cranking it up when they shouldn't just to catch up to someone who just blew your doors off...and then you blow your motor as a result.

I'd recommend just getting an under-hood model and saving yourself the money. I also don't know if the in-cabin boost controllers are bleeder-types. If they are, you could do better with a ball-spring model.

I like my Joe-P IL MBC. Cost $50, looks (and is) very high quality, and works perfectly (running 15psi and get spikes to 16psi).

I liked the ability to adjust the boost and not having to get out of the car. If I'm just driving to work then just have it set low but if I'm out and I have to turn it up a bit not having to pull over and pop the hood.

 

[kenamond]

I liked the ability to adjust the boost and not having to get out of the car. If I'm just driving to work then just have it set low but if I'm out and I have to turn it up a bit not having to pull over and pop the hood.

Not to be too much of a prick, but the car comes equipped with a "knob" that will regulate peak boost. It's called the gas pedal. If you want to go to work and hit 12psi, just don't floor it. I'm serious here. When I have to get going to work before my car is fully warmed up, I baby the gas pedal and don't boost more than a couple psi. I don't find it inconvenient at all, but that's me. Again, I'm just making suggestions based on my own opinions. I'd check out that MBC, though. I don't know much about it, but if it's a bleeder, it might not do as good of a job as a ball-spring model. I'd worry the most about it doing its job well before having an in-cabin option.

 

[snowborder714]

I agree with kenamond. As cool as the in-cabin adjustable MBC sounds, you probably will hardly touch it. I also agree with the gas pedal being a good boost controller. I normally don't build boost at all when I'm driving. But yet if I need/want to get on it, I have my MBC set at the max boost I can run and I know for a fact it will be there when I go WOT.

I say you build yourself a underhood MBC (costs about $10) and see how you like it. It's easy to do. Then, if you honestly think you need adjust your boost on the fly, buy the Hallman. But I'm sure that you won't really think about adjusting it while you're driving it.

Here's the how-to on building your own MBC:
http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html

 

[kevspyder]

Not to be too much of a prick, but the car comes equipped with a "knob" that will regulate peak boost. It's called the gas pedal. If you want to go to work and hit 12psi, just don't floor it. I'm serious here. When I have to get going to work before my car is fully warmed up, I baby the gas pedal and don't boost more than a couple psi. I don't find it inconvenient at all, but that's me. Again, I'm just making suggestions based on my own opinions. I'd check out that MBC, though. I don't know much about it, but if it's a bleeder, it might not do as good of a job as a ball-spring model. I'd worry the most about it doing its job well before having an in-cabin option.

I don't take offense to anything you guys are saying, I really appreciate your past experience suggestions. That's what I need. That hallman does have the ball and spring it has 2 different springs you can get also.

 

[DSMULATOR]

I also thought that an in car boost controller would be useful so I got the Greddy Profec II electronic and I am not that impressed. When you set it to PSI it shows up in a weird format, 12 psi displays as 120, and then you have to figure out all the settings like set gain, and start boost, yadda yadda yadda. I originally wanted to have a low and high setting for DD and the strip. Now I just set it to the max and drive it easy on the street and floor it when I want boost. Save the 200$ or so and build a manual and call it a day.

 

[nfernotalon]

Dont get the Turbonetics MBC

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/276946-why-am-i-getting-boost-creep.html

 

[91TsiTalon]

If you really want the in car adjustability, then I would go with a dual stage boost controller, as opposed to an in cabin. This is the one that I am running and it works great! I have it adjusted to stock boost and then 15psi on the high setting.

http://www.3barracing.com/product_2.htm

 

[kevspyder]

If you really want the in car adjustability, then I would go with a dual stage boost controller, as opposed to an in cabin. This is the one that I am running and it works great! I have it adjusted to stock boost and then 15psi on the high setting.

Multi-Stage Boost Control

So does this then have a switch in the cabin to go from stock to a preselected boost? Is it along the same lines as this one?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/parts/product_info.php?cPath=3_143_60&products_id=1195

 

[91TsiTalon]

Yep. And it works the same just not outrageously priced!

 

[kenamond]

Do they make (or does someone have DIY plans for) a dual-stage MBC with a knob so that you can dial anywhere between the two boost setting? So you could have a "lo" and "hi" and turn a knob to get anywhere in that range? Seems do-able, so I'd guess there'd be plans out there somewhere.

 

[97GSTURBOA]

I bought the Greddy Profect B and its perfect. Its expensive, but u can buy one for 10 bucks and it would do the same thing. The profect B has a nice cabin controller and it looks really nice; easy to use and adjust the boost pressure. But again, no different from a cheap knob/spring boost controller. Good luck

 

[project95gsx]

If you really want the in car adjustability, then I would go with a dual stage boost controller, as opposed to an in cabin. This is the one that I am running and it works great! I have it adjusted to stock boost and then 15psi on the high setting.

Multi-Stage Boost Control

That's cool! Someone walk me through how it works (pneumatically)? I was thinking of replacing my 30-30 boost gauge with an AEM Tru-Boost gauge/controller (anyone had luck with those?), but then I saw this. Let me get a better understanding of how it works, and I'll order it!

 

[jemsoccer]

Do they make (or does someone have DIY plans for) a dual-stage MBC with a knob so that you can dial anywhere between the two boost setting? So you could have a "lo" and "hi" and turn a knob to get anywhere in that range? Seems do-able, so I'd guess there'd be plans out there somewhere.

Are you talking about being able to run any boost between your highest and your lowest??? Or are you talking about making your own dual-stage MBC. If is the second, all you'd have to do would be make yourself 2 MBC's. One of which is set to low, and the other is your race boost. To make it work, all you would need to do is get a valve that has 3 inlets/outlets. 1 of which will come from the 'T' you make in your BOV-intake hose, the other 2 would be where the valve would open one, and close the other. This way, you just turn the valve to the desired MBC you want to be running with. Then, at the other end of the MBCs, you just T the outputs of them into the same hose you would if you were running just one (waste-gate actuator hose).

If you were talking about just varying between high and low, just set your boost to its highest point, tack on a washer or nut to the adjusting bolt so you are unable to go past that point, and just use vary the amount of times you screw it in.

 

[kenamond]

Are you talking about being able to run any boost between your highest and your lowest??? Or are you talking about making your own dual-stage MBC. If is the second, all you'd have to do would be make yourself 2 MBC's. One of which is set to low, and the other is your race boost. To make it work, all you would need to do is get a valve that has 3 inlets/outlets. 1 of which will come from the 'T' you make in your BOV-intake hose, the other 2 would be where the valve would open one, and close the other. This way, you just turn the valve to the desired MBC you want to be running with. Then, at the other end of the MBCs, you just T the outputs of them into the same hose you would if you were running just one (waste-gate actuator hose).

If you were talking about just varying between high and low, just set your boost to its highest point, tack on a washer or nut to the adjusting bolt so you are unable to go past that point, and just use vary the amount of times you screw it in.

I'm thinking of a variable boost controller that won't go below X or above Y but can be anywhere in between. I'd want something with a knob that goes from 0 to 10 and would give you X if you went to 0, Y if you went to 10, or went somewhere in between if you're somewhere between 0 and 10. AND X and Y could be adjusted. AND it would be in-cabin. AND I could make it cheaply .

The first option is very easy. Use the stock BCS but wire it to a switch. When the solenoid is open, boost signal passes through the BCS to MBC #1 set at X (the lower boost setting). When the solenoid is closed, boost goes to MBC #2 set at Y (the higher boost setting). Actually, the #2 MBC is seeing boost all the time, and when the solenoid is open, the lower-setting MBC #1 will "trigger" the WGA before the #2, so it doesn't matter. I've just designed this in my head, so it might have some glitches, but I think it'd work.