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[RESOLVED] 2g Wheel bearing

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Viper588

15+ Year Contributor
131
1
Oct 4, 2006
manalapan, New Jersey
Hello i am in the middle of replacing the front passenger side wheel bearing in my 95 Eclipse GS... I am a little confuse abotu a couple of things....The first is how can i get the 4 bolts holding the wheel bearing hub to the knuckle, there is no room for a socket to fit and tried an open ended and wouldnt budge... The second question is will i need a puller to remove the hub/bearing once i finally get the bolts off? Thanx
 
You need to take the axle out of the hub first. Then you will be able to remove the 4 bolts holding the hub in.

Some people are able to remove the hub with a hammer. I had no luck with this way, so I used a slide hammer I rented from Autozone.
 
You need to take the axle out of the hub first. Then you will be able to remove the 4 bolts holding the hub in.

Some people are able to remove the hub with a hammer. I had no luck with this way, so I used a slide hammer I rented from Autozone.

How do i remove the axle from the hub? will it just slide out once all the other connections are unbolted?
 
How do i remove the axle from the hub? will it just slide out once all the other connections are unbolted?

1. Jack the car up and remove the wheel.
2. Remove the cotter pin from the axle.
3. Pop the center cap out of your wheel and put it back on the car. Bolt it back up. Lower your car. Get out your breaker bar with helper pipe and remove the axle nut. (If you have a helper, you might be able to avoid putting the wheel back on and instead have them stand on the brakes while you use the breaker bar on the wheel nut.)
4. Unbolt the lower control arm where it attaches to the body of the car.
5. Unbolt the boomerang-shaped control arm from where it attaches to the body.
6. Put the axle nut back on the axle and tighten it down so that the nut slightly hangs off the end of the axle.
7. Using a board and a large hammer, smack on the axle nut to drive out the axle from the hub. You might have to ditch the board and the hammer and just use a brass head hammer.
8. Pull the axle out of the hub.
9. Pull on the hub and rotate it so that the hub is perpendicular to the side of the car.
10. Remove caliper and rotor from hub.
11. Unbolt 4 bolts holding hub in.
12. Reattach both lower control arms to body.
13. Remove hub (using slide hammer, hammer, puller, etc.)
14. Insert new hub after applying grease to where it will slide in knuckle. (Tip: Apply a coating of anti-seize to outside of hub, then gently rub it off to leave a very light coating. This will make future rotor removal easier.)
15. Use Loctite on 4 bolts holding hub in.
16. Put rotor and caliper back on.
17. Put axle nut on and torque to 150-180 ft. lbs.
18. Put NEW cotter pin on axle nut.
19. Put wheel back on, and lower.
20. Drive.


Procedure modified from this site: ColumbusDSM - 2G Turbo FWD Transmission Removal


I made this list all by memory, so I may be missing a few steps or same may be out of order.
 
regarding step "7. Using a board and a large hammer, smack on the axle nut to drive out the axle from the hub. You might have to ditch the board and the hammer and just use a brass head hammer."... i do not see how the axle would loosen from the hub assembly... Thanks for the help so far though
 
regarding step "7. Using a board and a large hammer, smack on the axle nut to drive out the axle from the hub. You might have to ditch the board and the hammer and just use a brass head hammer."... i do not see how the axle would loosen from the hub assembly... Thanks for the help so far though

Once you take the axle nut off of the axle the axle is free to slide out of the hub. However, the axle may be stuck in there pretty good if it hasn't been taken out in a long time. The hammer and board trick is just a way to break the axle loose from the hub so that it may slide out easily. Does that make sense?
 
Once you take the axle nut off of the axle the axle is free to slide out of the hub. However, the axle may be stuck in there pretty good if it hasn't been taken out in a long time. The hammer and board trick is just a way to break the axle loose from the hub so that it may slide out easily. Does that make sense?

i see what your saying would happen the part that im not getting is where is the axle going to move when you hit it? i was under the impression that its a solid piece of steel that is fixed in the position its in. no?
 
i see what your saying would happen the part that im not getting is where is the axle going to move when you hit it? i was under the impression that its a solid piece of steel that is fixed in the position its in. no?

Before you smack the axle to loosen it, you have already unbolted the lower control arms from the body. The hub is free to move a little bit because of this. The axle will flex enough to break free from the hub when you smack it. Then, to completely remove it from the hub you will have to swing the hub outwards as you push the axle through the hub.

I hope I'm making sense here. :coy: I'm not the best at explaining things but this will make more sense once you start trying it.
 
Before you smack the axle to loosen it, you have already unbolted the lower control arms from the body. The hub is free to move a little bit because of this. The axle will flex enough to break free from the hub when you smack it. Then, to completely remove it from the hub you will have to swing the hub outwards as you push the axle through the hub.

I hope I'm making sense here. :coy: I'm not the best at explaining things but this will make more sense once you start trying it.

Lol i think i know what you mean...im gonna go take a look and try it, ill post back in a lil with the results. Thanks for all the help
 
Use a hub puller. Actually it's more of an axle pusher.
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I sure as hell dont know why you guys are using all that stuff. I did mine with nothing but a socket wrench and a box wrench. I also definately didnt have to pull the axle out, I think you guys create more work for yourselves than you need too. stick a pry-bar on the end of your box wrench an that gives you more leverage to get the bolts undone. Now i know why some people are paying outrageous amounts of money to get their DSM's fixed. (The mechanics are doing a bunch of $hit that they dont need to) LOL good luck with your hub installation though, let us know how you make out.
 
Most hubs are so rusted/stuck in place you'll never get them out with all the hammers, PB Blast, and torches you can find (very few come out easily and you're a blessed person if they do). I even broke a car hub puller in half trying to get mine out after doing the hammers, PB Blast, and torches thing. The thing to use for stubborn hubs is what Wret shows (I finally got mine using it). It's a heavy duty truck hub puller with 1" screw (CTA4320) you can only get at a place that has truck rental specialty tools (not an auto parts store). Check the yellow pages. Oh and make sure you leave the axel nut on flush with the end of the axel shaft when you use it or you will mangle the axel threads (don't ask how I know that :sosad:).
 
Ok i finally was able to get out and work on it after a day of rain/snow... i was able to do everything fairly easy except for getting the lower control arm off... i got the two nuts off but i can not get the arm to detach, is there anything other than those two bolts on the bottom hold them together that im not seeing? Thank you for all the help!!
 
You slid the bolts out, right? Beyond that, just apply a little leverage and it should pop right out.
 
I was trying to disconnect the control arm at the other end... can it be done from that side? which is what im having trouble separating btw
 

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You need a pickle fork.
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You drive the fork between the ball joint boot and the spindle. Take precaution when doing this as not to tear the ball joint boot.

If you can't get a pickle for, and if have the room, loosen the nut until the top of the nut is flush with the ball joint stud and smack it with a heavy hammer. Usually one good square blow will pop it out.
 
I was trying to disconnect the control arm at the other end... can it be done from that side? which is what im having trouble separating btw
Yes it can be done from that ball joint end but it is 10 times harder and 95% of the time you will tear the ball joint boot. You don't need to take it off from that end to remove the axel and/or replace the hub bearing. So unless you need to replace the ball joint, disconnect the other ends and save yourself a lot of headache. I've done this proceedure many times.
 
Yes it can be done from that ball joint end but it is 10 times harder and 95% of the time you will tear the ball joint boot. You don't need to take it off from that end to remove the axel and/or replace the hub bearing. So unless you need to replace the ball joint, disconnect the other ends and save yourself a lot of headache. I've done this proceedure many times.

LOL that might be why i was having so much trouble :coy: ... but thanx for the help luv2rallye, ill do it from the other side as soon as it stops raining =/ and let you gus know...
 
Yo i just helped out my buddy and his GSX and his wheel hub was jacked up....make sure you got the right side tho...just cause it feels like its coming from the passanger side doesnt mean its that side it prob most likely to be the drivers side or visvera....we ended up having to use a torch to get them off....and a bfh....big f'n hammer....good luck i know your pain
 
oh and remember to check your bolts on your control arms to make sure the locks on them are still good....his got to hot and melted the rubber and the control arm fell off while driving....haha that was fun too....im taking it over today cause some girl bought his car....to many probs....i told him that he needs to put like $20G into it like i did and you wont have a prob
 
when i looked online they ranged from like $120-170 at most places i looked for a front assembly but when i went to the local auto store by me it was only $80...
 
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