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whiteythepimp

15+ Year Contributor
92
0
Nov 26, 2007
oakdale, New York
I have a 90 gst... Fully built head (all valves, retainers, springs, seats, lifters, cams, sprockets.)... SBR-g60.. HAFE cast s.s. manifold, evo 3 o2 housing, SBR downpipe, Full custom exhaust, boost controlers, dsm link, full fuel uprgrades ect.. Spent over 2 hours custom making a whole bolt on motor pretty much with Dustin over at SBR (best place ive dealt with for parts cause of him).. Anyways... Boosting about 25 lbs, stock block... What should I be running and horse power wise.. (1st dsm i've owned).. I bought the car about a month ago from NYC.. Drove it home (all stock besides intake) and blew the head gasket cause the assholes didnt torque the head down enough.. Any suggestions and ways to go about this whole mess? Any ideas on how to install the shit a different way (someone was telling me about electrodes and running the gm-maf w/ dsmlink)... http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/images/smilies/mitsu-smiley.gif
:dsm:

whitey
 
I don't know about the cam specifics.. All I was told were that they were competition cams stage II.. The machine shop told me I was running ferrarea valves, IRD dual springs (titanium), IRD retainers (titanium), IRD valve seals.. The only two things i am certain about is the skunk works cam sprockets.. and the shop that did the work set the exhaust cam 3 degrees in advance to allow the turbo to spool faster, leaving the intake cam dead center.. But I always thought you had to set the intake alone with the exhaust?? :confused: The other thing is the port and polishing... They called it there stage 2 porting but I dont know exact measurements on how much.. Oh yea and the APR head studs..

Also could the cam settings be why I blew my head gasket in only 90 miles?.. And I don't wanna hear its cause I can't drive stick.. Been driving stick for years.. Never brought the motor over 3,500 rpm's the whole time because I was told not to by the shop..

Everything else I just bought from slow boy racing.. The HAFE cast s.s. 7cm manifold is port with the 38mm wastegate provision drilled.. (there stage II also).. Tial 38mm wastegate.. The EVO III o2 housing is ported (also there stage II).. SBR-G60 has the inlet and outlet ported but thats about it.. Walbro 255 hp fuel pump.. Full Aeromotive full set up w/ fpr and everything, beside the fuel rail.. Stock fuel rail.. Fuel Injector clinic's 950cc injectors.. DSMLink, Balance shaft removal kit.. SBR FMIC (greddy core).. Balance Shaft removal kit (bushar).. Snow Performance Stage II methonal/water injection.. SBR Coil on Plug setup.. Dump pipe's from an Evo VIII, Mark V crank scraper, Tomei 4g63 thermo killer.. Prothane motor mounts, ATI harmonic Dampener, SBR mbc.. Plan on running 25lbs.. Stock block... I think I got all the specs of it.. Anything else?..

Oh and any recommendations on throttle bodies or intake manifolds?... ROFL

whitey
 
I'm kind of confused about what you are doing. You just blew your headgasket but you are asking about other parts for your car?

Do you know how to tune your shit? Do you know if you shit is already tuned? I think you blew your headgasket because you put way too much stress on the engine and blew it up!
 
Not sure exactly why my head gasket went.. I never brought the motor over 3500 rpms as the shop told me to do.. The head was milled down to make sure of no warppage.. The only thing they can think of is that the head wasnt fully torqued down.. Either that or there lieing to me and possibly just tried to put the head on without a gasket and just some sealant (since I only had the within sight of leaving warrenty)... I figured it could be that.. But im not sure.. Hense why I asked about if cam timing can #### shit up like on my honda or my 240... Either way.. I already ordered all parts to fix.. Just waiting for everything to finish being sent by SlowBoy and then I'm gunna start tearing down.. I'll have the motor apart and together in less then a week... And from what im told I can tune AEM emanagement and Hondata so DsmLink should be a walk in the park..
 
If you can tune all of those systems, you should be looking into your mapping for ideas on why teh HG went out. Too much timing would be my guess, along with some major lean areas. You don't baby a new motor BTW, you need to constantly change RPM and load levels or the rings will never seat right. You also need to make boost for rings to seat. And not a lot of people know that to break in most cams, you have to start the car and hold it above 1500 for 15 minutes or so.

What makes you think the HG is blown anyway? coolant in the oil, not running on all cylinders?

I still don't honestly know what you're asking us. Are you just trying to figure out why teh head gasket went?
 
Well everything with the mapping, ecu... Cams were tdc... cams were already broken in by the shop... Everything was/is fine... Coolant? It looks like chocolate milk.. oil spewing out of the exhaust.. I smoked out my block within about 6 seconds on the head gasket going...

BTW the only reason i baby'd the motor was because i was always told never to bring the motor over 3500 any head rebuild.. Cause i've had a couple done on my other cars.. (not from breaking just to up hp).. But yes i'm asking to see if anyone had a clue to as in why the head gasket could of gone so I can address the issue during the rebuild...

The wideband that was on for the trip home to see what was up showed nothing on the lean side.. actually showed it running alittle rich.. Nothing to stress normally though.. and air/fuel was fine the whole band (well until 3500)...

And the reason im asking about the rest of the mods is because i'm tearing down the motor anyway.. So while its apart id rather have it all done and together and not worry about it later.. And since I have a shop lending me a lift for a week so I can get it done...
 
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