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Car dies when I go into 2nd??

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BigSorn

15+ Year Contributor
306
16
Sep 11, 2007
Williston, North Dakota
When I get on it in First, and shift into 2nd, my car just looses all power. I just replaced the battery and the alt. also while driving around 3500rpm the car starts to sputter, and I let off the gas a get back on it and its gone. My friend told me to do a boost leak check, but does anyone have any ofther suggestions???

Thanks,
Adam
 
i had a similar problem a couple years ago and it was due to engine breaking, and the torque converters kept giving out.
 
Are you venting your BOV or recirculating?

There is no excuse for not boost leak testing. If you've never done one, do one regardless of what other suggestions folks provide w.r.t. your problem.:thumb:
 
I've changed my plugs and plug wires when I first got the car aobut 2 months ago.


The car does stutter when free reving

and I am recirulating my bov.

everything is all stock on the car exept a K&N filter.
 
I've changed my plugs and plug wires when I first got the car aobut 2 months ago.


The car does stutter when free reving

and I am recirulating my bov.

everything is all stock on the car exept a K&N filter.

What plugs did you get and what did you gap them to? Should use NGK BPR6ES plugs gapped to 0.028". They're only $2/ea at NAPA. Many say you can get away with the colder BPR7ES plugs, but the 6's are what you need for stock-to-moderate boost (up to ~17psi).

If you have other plugs, I'd invest the $8 on the correct NGK plugs, gap them properly, and see if it helps.

But then do the boost leak test anyway.;) Many of the rubber parts that seal the boosted portion of the intake tract turn into a hard plastic over time and will begin to leak. Also, the PCV valve will leak boost from the IM into the VC; they don't last very long, either. There's a long but very informative thread titled "Stupid PCV question" posted by FORMONTOYA that will tell you ways to fix the PCV situation for good. Or you could just replace the bad PCV with an $8 OEM part (Autozone/Carquest/etc. will not work - they will leak out of the box). If you don't have a compressor to do the boost leak test, I highly recommend picking up a $40 11 gallon portable compressed air tank that you can freely recharge at a gas station.

To recap, make sure you have the right plugs and that they are properly gapped. Then do a boost leak test. Then you can move on to fixing the leaks you probably have.
 
What plugs did you get and what did you gap them to? Should use NGK BPR6ES plugs gapped to 0.028". They're only $2/ea at NAPA. Many say you can get away with the colder BPR7ES plugs, but the 6's are what you need for stock-to-moderate boost (up to ~17psi).

If you have other plugs, I'd invest the $8 on the correct NGK plugs, gap them properly, and see if it helps.

But then do the boost leak test anyway.;) Many of the rubber parts that seal the boosted portion of the intake tract turn into a hard plastic over time and will begin to leak. Also, the PCV valve will leak boost from the IM into the VC; they don't last very long, either. There's a long but very informative thread titled "Stupid PCV question" posted by FORMONTOYA that will tell you ways to fix the PCV situation for good. Or you could just replace the bad PCV with an $8 OEM part (Autozone/Carquest/etc. will not work - they will leak out of the box). If you don't have a compressor to do the boost leak test, I highly recommend picking up a $40 11 gallon portable compressed air tank that you can freely recharge at a gas station.

To recap, make sure you have the right plugs and that they are properly gapped. Then do a boost leak test. Then you can move on to fixing the leaks you probably have.

Alrighty, I'll have to make a trip to Napa


Thanks alot,
Adam
 
Alright, I got the new plugs and gapped them, and it doesn't die when I got into second now, just when I keep it in first and putt around parking lots and stuff at around 3000-3500, I still havn't done the boost leak check, but I should get around to that on Monday.

-Adam.
 
Still does it......I got about 10mpg on my 300 mile trip yesterday, and my boss got mad at me ### I used so much gas on a bisness trip. also my factory boost gauge reads nothing, when I start it up, it goes halfway, like it always did, the doesn't read anything. I'm at a total loss.

Thanks,
Adam
 
wait a sec you dont have a aftermarket boost gauge? if you dont id suggest geting one asap the stcok on is no good for telling you how much boost you are running...if you need a mass air flow sesnor let me know. i have my stock one i just took out because i put in a maft so let me know.
 
My friend is letting me borrow his tester tonight, so I'll get that done, but I talked to him and he said that a boost leak would only be at WOT...and this is just puttsing around in 1st. But I'll get that tester and let ya know how it went.

Thanks alot.

If you have a boost leak, it'll be there from idle to WOT. Most people notice it after 2500rpm's or so though, but it'll still be there and affecting how your car runs no matter what.
 
Check the gasket on the IC pipe that goes to the turbo, my gasket blew and it died everytime i would go hard then let off the gas, but i could still save it if i gave it some gas. Definitely do a boost leak test!!! :cool:
:dsm::talon::laser:
 
Alright, so a couple of days ago, I went and borrowed a friends mass airflow sensor, and I just put it in lastnight, and now it runs perfect.


thanks for all the help guys.

-Adam
 
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