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Possible Fuel Cut???

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Stealthrida

15+ Year Contributor
67
0
Oct 10, 2005
spotswood, New Jersey
believe im having a problem with fuel cut off. Im running the stock turbo, no boost controller, cat,intake,bov, upper and lower intercooller pipping.

Anyway this happened last tuesday i was driving to class going about 55 and was slowly accelerating when all of a sudden i didnt get past 65. My gf was behind me and was like you are blowing out black smoke...im like what the hell. toay i checked to make sure everything was tightened and nothing was wrong. The problem still was happening. I went yesterday to Meineke to get my check engine light checked, i cant exactly remember each code but i know there was one for Fuel pressure Solenoid, Turbo, and actuator. I un hooked the intake to check if there was any shaft play but still nothing. Im confused as anything. Oh and the car burns fuel Like theres no tommorw.


Well today i replaced the plugs they were are black from the fuel, i changed the Fuel Pressure Regulator, and the PCV valve. I know its not going to fix it but its a temporary fix. Anyway i was playing around looking to find out whats wrong and realized that the Connector is not clipped into the MAs Airflow its just on there. I tried having it click but for some reason it wont could that be the problem?

Oh and one more thing i checked all my hoses, there all connected. I hear my intake sucking up air and the car not going anywhere.
 
In the top left side of your engine bay there should be fuel pressure solenoid. Make sure that it has a vacuum line hooked up to it, and that the line is pulling vacuum. If the vacuum line is disconected, it will dump fuel thus the black smoke, and fouled plug's.
 
In the top left side of your engine bay there should be fuel pressure solenoid. Make sure that it has a vacuum line hooked up to it, and that the line is pulling vacuum. If the vacuum line is disconected, it will dump fuel thus the black smoke, and fouled plug's.

The Fuel pressure solenoid is on the right. I checked all the hose they were all connected .
 
Its up near the brake booster...correct? Well thats the leftside of the car if it is up there. Thats where it is on my 1G's.


You might want to see what your MAF is reading when accelerating by back probing the MAF. If its readings are off then thats probably due to not being connected 100%, and there is ONE of your problem's. I'd get it fixed anyway's though.
 
Its up near the brake booster...correct? Well thats the leftside of the car if it is up there. Thats where it is on my 1G's.


You might want to see what your MAF is reading when accelerating by back probing the MAF. If its readings are off then thats probably due to not being connected 100%, and there is ONE of your problem's. I'd get it fixed anyway's though.


On 2gs there on the right. Im not really sure how to get a reading, and how can i fix it.
 
Probably the only way would be to "T" in a fuel pressure guage, or get an AFPR :) As for the actuator. Do you know what actuator its talking about? Also it does't sound like fuel cut to me...Fuel cut generally happen's when acceling hard, and then it feel's like you hit a brick wall. I was rubbing my fore head after the first time it happened to me in my 1G...hit my head on the steering wheel.
 
Left side of car = driver's side. The fps is on the left side (drivers side) of the car.

Did you do a boost leak test yet?
 
Probably the only way would be to "T" in a fuel pressure guage, or get an AFPR :) As for the actuator. Do you know what actuator its talking about? Also it does't sound like fuel cut to me...Fuel cut generally happen's when acceling hard, and then it feel's like you hit a brick wall. I was rubbing my fore head after the first time it happened to me in my 1G...hit my head on the steering wheel.

i believe it was P1103 Turbocharger Wastegate Actuator.
P1104 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid one of those are the codes.

I didnt get to do the boost leak test its hard with school, and work not enough time in the day.

I forgot to add that The actuator supposedly doesnt close. That it stays open. The car takes forever to accelerate.
 
like 98% of the ppl have already said, there is NO sense trying to diagnose the problem when you haven't done a leak test first

hell, i carry my boost leak tester in my car with me in case i need to test it at a gas station, friends house, etc.
 
Check to make sure the actuator arm is still connected to the WG flapper...sometimes the cotter pin [that keep's the arm on] breaks off due to rust, and the arm will fall off, and this will cause the WG to open with the slightest amount of boost.
 
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