Noob installing 420A Hahn 1st Stage Kit...

[kergilman]

Since I am brand new to this forum, I was not able to post in the 420A conversion section when I attempted to so I will try here...

First of all, this was a project to understand the physics and functionality of the Turbo as much as boost a little power...I'm a noob and am a little cautious...I have had my 99 GS for 8 years but finally getting around to playing with it...

I finished the installation this past weekend and had a couple of post installation questions. I had attempted to call Hahn support directly to confirm this, but I found out that thier support consists of solely a guy named Aaron who is pulled off the production line half-way through the day to answer phones for 4 hours...I didn't get through...Aaron must be very busy...

I have no guages yet so reference on PSI boost...

Fuel pressures @ idle and under load are correct @ 55psi & 90 psi respectively. I have not adjusted anything beyond this. Turbo spools up and seems to function correctly, but under higher PSI the engine will "buck" a little until I let off or push in the clutch. OBDII code will sometimes pop up after this happens as P0108 for Absolute Manafold Pressure being excessive in the intake. One thing I was weary of: The Fuel Mapper connections specify soldiering connection but i only t-crimpped them because of lack of working space for a soldiering iron. I verified I tapped into the correct 2 of the 3 wires but not certain about needed lack of resistance in these connections for fuel timing. I amn also thinking about replacing ther MAP Sensor but would like to verify this 1st...

Thanks for any info someone could offer...

 

[Ajax]

I have not worked with the Hahnkit but does it require a missing link? Running without the missing link would throw the code if you go into positive manifold pressure.

 

[kergilman]

Missing link? Not quit sure what that means... Do you mean running w/o the MAP sensor plugged into the engine harness...?

Sorry...

 

[TsiRevolution]

hahn kits come with a fuel cut defencer (missing link), at least mine did.

 

[kergilman]

From what I read on functionality, the Fuel mapper connects it's poistive lead to the MAP sensors signal lead and ground to ground. The Fuel mapper function is stated from the MFGR as:
Fuel Mapper is a compact, easy-to-install voltage clamp that will anchor stock MAP sensor output to prevent over-rich fuel mixtures and over-retarded ignition timing.

I wonder if this is same function...

 

[98gsspy]

get some gauges

 

[Shadow98]

First of all, you can still post in the 420A tech section even if your a new member.

As for you bucking, it sounds like fuel cut. Send Pual (ViolcitaPaola) a message for a FCD (yours might be faulty or just suck, ). BTW, you should at least get a boost and an A/F Gauge.

 

[TurboAnything]

The hann kit comes with a Voltage clamp. When the map gets to a certian voltage 4.5v i think it stops it there tricking the computer into thinking you are not boosting. you have it wired wrong and or badly try agian.

 

[Shadow98]

The hann kit comes with a Voltage clamp.

Which is the same thing as a FCD (fuel cut defender)...

 

[95TalonOwner]

My hahn kit didnt come with a voltage clamp but maybe that's because I have an early 95 which doesn't throw the MAP code or need a missing link. This is what the missing link is....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Syna...012QQitemZ220164522763QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

The bucking is probably you knocking or just plain misfiring. You did close the gap on your plugs when you put this kit in right? I had to close the gap down to .028 in order for it not to misfire under higher amounts of boost. Intake temps without and intercooler are extremely high which is why i made my own sidemount setup.

 

[kergilman]

The hann kit comes with a Voltage clamp. When the map gets to a certian voltage 4.5v i think it stops it there tricking the computer into thinking you are not boosting. you have it wired wrong and or badly try agian.

I think you hit it on the nose. The car will drive normally if I keep my foot out of it, like it has for the last 8 years...it only "bucks" once in a while and only if spooled up @ 3000 rpm, give or take...the voltage clamp (fuel mapper) that operates off of the center "signal" wire from the MAP sensor/TPS connector might sometimes be missing the "signal", causing it to fail to "clamp" the sensors mass air intake pressure trick, and the computer kills the fuel line until the intake pressure falls back...

 

[kergilman]

BTW, you should at least get a boost and an A/F Gauge.

I plan to. Just trying to find an option that wouldn't be obvious...(every kid in civic/integra pulling up next to me already want to rev thier retarded sounding POS's and I try to keep a low profile)...I have spotted the DSM Bezel piece that allows for 2 standard guages @ the lower far corners but I have seen it online for $65-$79...and the piece of plastic is worth about $1.50... I guess I should order the guages, regardless of how I'll figure on mounting them... The boost PSI guage's I've seen either show all positive pressure or will have a 0 mark and also show vacuum. Do you think the A/F is more important then pyro sensor...?

 

[jiggysnitz]

Check ebay for something to stick the gauges in, there are usually some good deals and its hard to mess up a gauge pod. Not sure if you can find it for the 2g but if you want to remain descrete I got my center airvent pod on ebay for 12 bucks and shipping. I know people make them for the 2g

 

[TurboAnything]

I would do the EGT gauge and a boost first. An air/fuel is not that useful save for a wideband.

 

[kergilman]

I would do the EGT gauge and a boost first. An air/fuel is not that useful save for a wideband.

Check ebay for something to stick the gauges in, there are usually some good deals and its hard to mess up a gauge pod. Not sure if you can find it for the 2g but if you want to remain descrete I got my center airvent pod on ebay for 12 bucks and shipping. I know people make them for the 2g

Roger, roger. Thanks for the info!