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what brand is the best cam gears

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DIS1KRAZY

15+ Year Contributor
51
0
Feb 19, 2006
CORONA, California
I am fully building my 2gen gsx and I want to know who thinks what brand is the best cam gears
 
Short version, cam gears are cam gears. You aren't going to gain much from adjustables, regardless of what the Honda kids might tell you. About the best result you're going to get is the ability to smooth out the loping idle of longer duration cams a little bit.
Aside from that, they're pretty much a waste of money, unless 5hp or less for $150-300 is worth it to you.

If you're just throwing money for the looks, buy what looks good to you. Otherwise, stockers in good shape will do you fine.
 
No they are not just for looks, I just got hks 264/272's, so i just wanted to know a good brand
 
Cam gears are a mechanical way of adjusting you're timing as well as adjust the rate and charateristics of the air exchange. I never personally used them. But I have heard that they can be a good way of putting that last UMPH in your setup. I suggest you do some extensive research on them. Because you mess it up and you're valves will have a nice curve to them
 
Im sure aem, unorthodox racing, or fidanza can set you up with a nice cam gear for you 02 eclipse. There are other brands but for the most part, these have been the most popular in the past couple of years. If in deed you are building a 2g and not a 3g, you need to update your profile to include a car that fits in with this forum's protocol.
 
Adjustable cam gears can also be used to shape the torque curve in favor of low end torque at the expense of top end power.

The OP's profile doesn't mention transmission or TC but just in case:

But don't try it with a high stall torque converter. With my 4200 RPM stall TC the engine would not stay in the low RPM range on the dyno at WOT. I ended up with the gears zeroed out for my effort.
 
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Good luck. Here's hoping you won't be back asking about low compression soon.
 
Good luck. Here's hoping you won't be back asking about low compression soon.

That was good for a laugh! LOL

The only reason I'd get cam gears is to correctly degree in a set of cams--some people are unlucky and their drop in cams end up being very far off from being zero'd out.
 
If I had to choose I would get a cam gear with a 5 point lock instead of some of the 3 point just so you kow you have less chance of them slipping. I haven't heard to much of cam gears failing from the OBX to the AEM.
 
well i figured, everything else is fully built on the engine, why should i just stop on getting cam gears. rite?

Because you don't really need them, the difference they make is minimal at best, and you can REALLY screw up your valvetrain if you don't know what you're doing and just randomly put them on and mess with the settings? Also, it's just one more moving part to fail, whereas the OEM gear is just a solid chunk of metal. And if you just leave them zeroed, there's no change from the stock part, aside from your wallet being $300 lighter and the cam gears being a purely visual change. Which will tempt you to run without an upper timing belt cover so you can see them, which is a BONEHEAD move.

Seems like getting a water/alky injection system would take priority over 'bling bling' cam gears that do very little.

Also, you may want to fix your car profile to actually list the DSM you're working on, rather than a random 3g Eclipse.
 
Because you don't really need them, the difference they make is minimal at best, and you can REALLY screw up your valvetrain if you don't know what you're doing and just randomly put them on and mess with the settings? Also, it's just one more moving part to fail, whereas the OEM gear is just a solid chunk of metal. And if you just leave them zeroed, there's no change from the stock part, aside from your wallet being $300 lighter and the cam gears being a purely visual change. Which will tempt you to run without an upper timing belt cover so you can see them, which is a BONEHEAD move.

Seems like getting a water/alky injection system would take priority over 'bling bling' cam gears that do very little.

Also, you may want to fix your car profile to actually list the DSM you're working on, rather than a random 3g Eclipse.

He will benefit more from adjustable cam gears than you will with the arp main studs. Just because he is spending his $ in a different manner than you doesnt mean he will gain nothing from them. Add cams to your car and dyno it. Now add the adjustable gears, dyno and adjust them, and I am willing to bet that you can move your powerband all over the rpm range. You can also pick up peak torque and hp over the stock nonadjustables. When I added adjustable gears to my comp 200's, I was able to pick up 17whp and 12ft/lbs of torque at 26psi over what it made with gears zeroed out. It has nothing to do with bling and yes, I run an upper tb cover.:rolleyes:
 
well, i guess i should explain myself alittle bit more. The reason as well i want to do the timing gears is because the engine is apart right now. The cam gears are the only thing i would want to make the whole engine complete. so like i said before i thought the adj. are upgrades, i already have arps mains, heads, rod ends. i don't want to do water/alky injecton because the car is going to be used for road racing. and i personally havent heard anyone using that on a road car, if have school me please.
 
oh yea, and i also still work on my 3g, i am currently fully building that as well. thats my first baby. the gsx is my 2g is my second baby.
 
92awd, the reason I have ARP headstuds is the same reason I put in forged internals and did up the valvetrain at the same time. So when the time came to crank the boost (after I find a local shop willing to do a socket job on my ECU, so I can drop in DSMLink and the set of 850s that have been gathering dust on my shelf for a year and a half), that the engine would be more than ready and willing to take whatever was thrown at it, without having to rebuild it again, including if I get bit by the boost bug and bump up to a bigger turbo. Which is likely.

Okay, so 17hp, with how much loss under the curve? What was your total peak output, again? 26psi... with a good set of supporting mods and a decent tune, I'd spitball that at around 350hp or likely more on a decent-flowing turbo, with zeroed cams. Which is under a 5% gain, at peak power adjustment (as opposed to drivability), lowballing the output numbers.

Water injection can be used on a road racing vehicle, provided a large enough reservoir to last a lap, even if it isn't the best idea. At that point a larger FMIC core would serve better, and the $300 would go toward that nicely. And if the car is to be used for road racing, you'll be adjusting the cam gears to smooth the band (reducing peak power) so you will have more usable power without spiking in the middle of a turn if you romp on it too soon. And the stockers tend to be more than adequate for that kind of driving.

Just was commenting about the profile change given that 3Gs aren't DSMs, and you're asking about a DSM on a DSM tuning site. Would probably be a good idea to list your DSM instead. :)
 
Galant VR-4s are DSMs. Built in Normal, just like the rest of our cars. 3Gs are not. It could be *argued* that some 2Gs are not, but in the interests of community spirit, they're included under the DSM banner.
3Gs are simply me-so-bitchys, and generally are accepted as being sporty-looking cars, with little actual potential, even in the V6 trim.
They can be made fast... but well, with enough time and money, you can teach a pig to sing. It's generally easier to just get a bird though.

VR-4's were not made in the US, they were imported from Japan.

Galant VR-4 falls under the dsm category because the engine and drivetrain are almost identical to the US dsm counterpart.
 
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