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went to spin the crankshaft and nothing can't get it to budge

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crensinivon

15+ Year Contributor
179
0
Oct 16, 2007
Martinsburg, West Virginia
Just got my crankshaft, pistons and flywheel back from the machine shop yesterday
Bearings, gasket kit, head bolts and timing belt kit all arrived today
So I honed out the cylinders, then flipped the motor upside down and put the bearings in.
Drop the nice shiny new crankshaft in place, repeat the above process, and then making sure all of the arrows were facing forward torqued everything down.....

Well went to spin the crankshaft and nothing can't get it to budge with any torque.

So I released the caps to relieve pressure, and sat down to ask for help.....

So should the crankshaft on a 4g63 not spin at this point, because from my past couple of motors they spun easily by comparison. Also I torqued the main cap bolts to 49ft-lbs of torque....

The crankshaft was turned .010" under and the bearings are .25mm larger. I thought that was the same measurement. could be mistaken I'm double checking now....

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Didn't us plastigage yet. Picking some up tomorrow.
 
Sounds like the gaps or tolerances were not set properly when torqueing the crank down. Re-do this with the plasti-gauge strips and it should fix the problem. All said and done the crank should rotate with very little resistance
 
Sounds like the gaps or tolerances were not set properly when torqueing the crank down. Re-do this with the plasti-gauge strips and it should fix the problem. All said and done the crank should rotate with very little resistance

Plasti-gauge doesn't solve anything. It is just a measure device, like a ruler. Your crank should spin freely. DON'T force it! Take the caps of and see what is wrong. If you don't what your doing, get some one that does. It's not hard to, but everything must be done carefully.

If your crank was cut, your bearings should be smaller, not larger.
 
So, even if the plasti-gauge is used it only tells you the amount of clearance from the crankshaft to the main bearings. I didn't think that is actually fixes anything. Am going to recheck the gap on the main cap and try one more time before I give the machine shop a call. Also am going to get a micrometer tomorrow and double check what the machine shop said. I did have my neighbor involved he works at the dealership up the street as a mechanic and this isn't my first rebuild. Was just curious if there was anything particular to these machines. I appreciate any input.

And in order to post pictures I have to put the motor back in the car for the calendar. Don't want you guys to think it lives up on the jackstands. :thumb:

:cry:
 
Also I was wondering will the crank off of a 6 bolt crank fit into a 7 bolt motor casing if so is there a way to tell the difference in the 2???
 
6 bolt has 6 bolt holes on the end of the crank where the flywheel bolts up. 7 bolt has 7. you should do some searching on the forums for questions like that before other members give you shit about it.
 
re-read the question please. I bought the car with the motor torn down so I'm not 100% sure of what I have I was hoping I didn't have a 2g block and a 1g crank. I know the difference in the crank. They are both 4g63 motors so are the casings the same?
 
If your crank was cut, your bearings should be smaller, not larger.
Wrong. Less material on the crank journal = more material on the bearing. If the crank journals are undersized, then it only makes sense that the bearings for them are oversized.

re-read the question ###. I bought the car with the motor torn down so I'm not 100% sure of what I have I was hoping I didn't have a 2g block and a 1g crank. I know the difference in the crank. They are both 4g63 motors so are the casings the same?
If you have main caps like this, then you have a 6-bolt block: PIC

If you have a main girdle like this, then you have a 7-bolt block: PIC
 
Your bearing are wrong,mic the crank and take a reading. Then put both bearings on #1 main cap and torque it down, then mic it with the bearing in that will tell u what wrong.....
 
i believe thats what i said, bigger crank OD will equal smaller bearing OD

You still have it backwards. A "cut" crank does not have a larger OD on the journal - it's smaller. So the bearing is thicker (or larger, or oversized) to compensate.
 
Plasti-gauge doesn't solve anything. It is just a measure device, like a ruler. Your crank should spin freely. DON'T force it! Take the caps of and see what is wrong. If you don't what your doing, get some one that does. It's not hard to, but everything must be done carefully.

If your crank was cut, your bearings should be smaller, not larger.

In means of making sure everything is set correctly it will...It will determine if something is out of wack or not set properly so you can further trouble shoot the problem.

If you are unsure with how things are going, Most machine shops (for engines) Will do this for you.
 
Plasti-gauge doesn't solve anything. It is just a measure device, like a ruler. Your crank should spin freely. DON'T force it! Take the caps of and see what is wrong. If you don't what your doing, get some one that does. It's not hard to, but everything must be done carefully.

If your crank was cut, your bearings should be smaller, not larger.


not to hijack this thread...but I'm Putting together a bottom end for the 1st time...I plastiguaged everything and its all in tolereance, but how "freely" should it spin...I mean mine spins fine, but it take some pressure...its not like I can spin it and it keeps rotating...
 
i believe thats what i said, bigger crank OD will equal smaller bearing OD

I hope that you're not a real engineer. A larger crankshaft outer diameter will require a larger bearing inner diameter to maintain proper clearances. Therefore the opposite is also true that a smaller crankshaft outer diameter will require a smaller bearing inner diameter to maintain proper clearances. If we went by your rules none of our crankshafts would be spinning right now! LOL
The key word is reqire not equal. The outer diameter of the crankshaft won't change the inner diameter of the bearing unless you physically change the bearings. And in this case we are talking about the ID of the bearing, not the OD. Unless his maincaps are align honed/bored the OD of the bearings will remain the same.
 
not to hijack this thread...but I'm Putting together a bottom end for the 1st time...I plastiguaged everything and its all in tolereance, but how "freely" should it spin...I mean mine spins fine, but it take some pressure...its not like I can spin it and it keeps rotating...

I have read in a book that you should be able to give the crankshaft a good spin and it should rotate twice on it's own. This of course is all going to depend on the temperature of the engine and the lubricant. It will also depend on what type of lubricant you used. I used a heavy assembly lube that didn't allow it to rotate as stated above. All in all if the plastiguage is within tolerance and you can rotate the crankshaft with even force then you are probably alright. Don't forget to check the thrust measurement. I'm not sure what they are but it is important to check. If while turning the crankshaft over and you feel it turn harder in one spot you may have a burr or something else that needs to be inspected. You can isolate the problem by loosing one cap at a time to localize the problem. i hope this helps.
 
Here's the scoop went to the machine shop looks like the person that I bought the car from switched the main caps on the two motors that he gave me. Not all were switched over though. Still confounded. Anyway, It spins great now. :thumb:

But I went to put the pistons in and broke an oil ring doh..... :cry:

So now I'm waiting to get a new set before I can continue.
 
Man before you go any further, i would seriously consider taking that block to the machine shop, and getting the mains aligned honed since you don't know if those caps are the correct ones......just my 2cents
 
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