LC-1 issues i have tried everything.

[javier347]

I just got the LC-1 with the db gauge, i ran a new line from the block to the metal part whare you bolt the ecu to and grounded everything on that peace of metal, i am running my 12 volt suppy from the cig litter, i also cut the 02 sensor plug and wired the analog 1 (yellow wire) to the white wire from the 02 sensor cable that goes to pin (75). I choosed twebin in dsmlink and all i get is 9.0 I am also constanly getting 22.4 a/f on the gauge. I have upgraded the firmware and everytime i set my volt for the analog 1 and hit programm it dosent save. dont know if i wired the led right but the only way i could see if the light is lit or anything is if i press the calibation button, when i turn on the car and press the calibration button to see what kind of error codes i might be getting it looks like its recalibratin allover again but then it stays lit, when i use the lm programer to change the setting then it starts givin me anerror code 1. I dont know what else to do at this time. Please somebody help me.

 

[javier347]

Ok guys i grounded the gauge, the blue and white wire and the calibration wire all individually to the ground terminal on the batterie that seemed to solve most of my issues i also wired the led and calibration wired in paralleel and now it is working right. Then i did excatly what tenn-gsx told me to do and i am getting the same reading with dsmlink and the gauge, the only problem is that it is always reading between 16 and 19 a/f. I ran out of gas so my wife went on a gas run, after putting the gas and seeing that my a/f are high i thouth that it might be the gas and after asking what gas she got me itwas 87 octane. Is this the reason why i am getting these a/f. Thanks tenn-gsx for helping me with this.

 

[javier347]

Any inputs?

 

[44pirate]

Do you have the install instructions?

 

[Splitpi]

Here is what I did... with my instructions as I stated on the DSMLink Forums...
http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11173

Where are you sourcing power from for the LC-1 since it needs to be switched and have 5A, Cigarette Lighter? Also where are you mounting the LC-1? It is hermetically sealed, so it can be mounted outside the car.

The reason I am asking is that Welded the bung about 1.5 ft from the turbo outlet and just before the flex section of my down pipe. The wiring from the Sensor to the plug is not long enough to reach to the rear O2 hole (under driver seat), so I will need mount the LC-1 module on the underside of the car and route the wires up through the hole. I intend to remove the Rear O2 and cut the harness and solder:
- LC-1 (YELLOW) to Rear O2 (WHITE) - Signal
- LC-1 (GREEN) and LC-1 (WHITE) to Rear O2 (BLACK) - Analog and System Ground
- LC-1 (BLUE) to the Chassis Ground
- LC-1 (BLACK) will be routed under the arm rest and the LED and reset switch mounted into the arm rest
- LC-1 (BROWN) wil be taped up and not used
- LC-1 (Serial IN) will be routed to the armrest in the same manner as the Reset Switch

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...C-1_Manual.pdf

So to reiterate my questions, what power source is best and where would be best to mount it?

I ended up cutting the Rear O2 sensor [Pin 75 on 2g, I believe] wire going to the ECU and soldered the Yellow LC-1 wire to the ECU. I then spliced in the White and Green wires to pin 81, i believe which should be sensor ground. Blue I wired to a chassis ground point and Red was wired to cigarette lighter. Brown was taped up.

I mounted the unit on the center frame brace and routed the wires into the cab by cutting a small slitt at the bottom of the steering rubber boot.

I then set DSMLink to ignore rear O2 faults and calibrated the LC-1 per manufactors recommendations. It took me longer than I anticipated, ~4 hours, but I spent alot of the time trying to loosen the cap on the bung I had previously welded onto the DP a week prior (~2 hrs to weld the bung to the DP, stupid O2 sensor studs seized to the nuts and were a pain to get the studs restarted) and had seized up (I believe #10 hex fits cap), as well as replacing the stock front O2 with a new one since I was so inclined. I also spent alot of time triple checking my pin counts and wire to ensure they were correct.

 

[javier347]

Alright guys the gasket whare the 02 housing and downpipe connect was busted so i replaced it and it is reading pretty good now but i also have a hairline crack on the downpipe witch is getting fixed tomorow. Thanks for all the help.