Need advice from the Pro's on my build

[Steveman09]

Ok I'm new to these forums and I want to know what this setup should be capable of realistically.

Here's all the parts I purchased and have in my garage for the build.

The car is a 1992 Talon TSI FWD 6-bolt


4g63 2.0L 6-Bolt Block bored (0.20)
Stock Crankshaft
Balancer Shafts Deleted
Rotating Assembly Balanced
8.5:1 Wiseco Fordged Pistons *0.20*
Eagle H-Beam Fordged Rods, pins and locks
Complete ARP Hardware (Mains, Rods, Head Studs)
Cometic MLS Head Gasket
H.V. Oil Pump
New Heavy Duty Radiator
Gates H.P. Blue Timing Belt (all new tensioner components)
Stock Cylinder Head
Crower 264/264 Cams
Crower Springs w/TI Retainers KIT
Adjustable Cam Gears
Coil-On-Plug Ignition
STOCK Intake Manifold
DSMLINK Engine Managment w/EPROM ECU
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Larger Fuel Rail w/AEM Adjustable FPR
850CC or 1000CC Injectors (Havent Decided Yet)
Tubular Turbo T3/T4 Turbo Manifold w/External Dump
Full 3-inch Catless Exhaust
Large XSPOWER FMIC
5-speed FWD Transmission Completely Rebuilt by English Racing
ACT 2600 Clutch w/Street Disc

The things im undecided on are the Turbo Charger to use and the Injector size.

My goal is to have enough power to run mid to low 11's in the 1/4mile

This car will be mainly a street warrior and mostly raced from a 50+mph roll, im looking for some really good power since the majority of the cars I race in the past with my 12-second 1987' Subaru were Vette ZO6's, Mustang Cobra's, and a few 500hp SRT4's.

I would like some advice and comments from the DSM People who have expierence in some good builds.

I have no idea what these internals im using can handle?

Thanks in advance.

 

[1gDSM4g63]

You may want to go 272/272 cams, switch to 2600 w/ 6 sprung puck, bov, tial 40mm, light flywheel, downpipe and coil-on-plug it not necessary. You will need your engine block blueprinted, ported, honed, and polished. Same goes with you head too to get anywhere near low 11s.

 

[Steveman09]

You may want to go 272/272 cams, switch to 2600 w/ 6 sprung puck, bov, tial 40mm, light flywheel, downpipe and coil-on-plug it not necessary. You will need your engine block blueprinted, ported, honed, and polished. Same goes with you head too to get anywhere near low 11s.

I was deciding on the Street Disc ACT Clutch and the 264 cams, since Drivability is important, this car will be driven daily, I've had many 6-puck clutches and they can be very harsh on drivetrain and hell to drive daily. The 264 Cams should also have a decent low end power band for stop and go while still opening up the top end a bit. I've been researching for awhile now and this is what I have found so far.

The block is balanced and blueprinted, as far as the head goes, I have no idea how much material to remove for porting, and from my Subaru experience, porting doesn't always net positive performance unless its done to perfection for the engine at hand, as all engines seem to like different amounts of airflow in different places.

 

[AKGEN1DSM]

well if your going to have a t3/t4 manifold, you may want a t3/t4 turbo, and I think 850cc is pushing it let alone 1000cc for the street, How much boost are you going to be running? under 18psi? 720s would work fine for that.

 

[Turbo Monk3y]

sleeved bored .20 4g63 block nice.............

 

[Steveman09]

well if your going to have a t3/t4 manifold, you may want a t3/t4 turbo, and I think 850cc is pushing it let alone 1000cc for the street, How much boost are you going to be running? under 18psi? 720s would work fine for that.

The plan is to run 2 different maps.

Street 18psi
Race 26-32psi

Thats why I was considering the larger injectors.

 

[Steveman09]

sleeved bored .20 4g63 block nice.............

What do you mean? Could you elaborate?

 

[Steveman09]

Bump

 

[hopwoodp]

What do you mean by "sleeve bored"? Did you have your blocked sleeved? Just an fyi, we don't sleeve our blocks.

 

[prostreetdsmx1]

What do you mean? Could you elaborate?

we don't sleeve your beautiful Iron blocks my friend. Do you come from the Honda community? I mean that as a real question, not sarcasm.

 

[hopwoodp]

Steveman09, who built your engine or building your engine? Also, turbo selection is another thing. What is your budget like?

 

[underradar92]

mostly raced from a 50+mph roll, im looking for some really good power since the majority of the cars I race in the past with my 12-second 1987' Subaru were Vette ZO6's, Mustang Cobra's, and a few 500hp SRT4's.

.

Bump

^ Thin Ice^

With DSMLINK you can use any injector you want. No such thing as too big, go big. My vote? 1000cc.

 

[Steveman09]

we don't sleeve your beautiful Iron blocks my friend. Do you come from the Honda community? I mean that as a real question, not sarcasm.

The machine shop I sent the block to recommended to sleeve the block, so i figured thats what happened.

I'm from the Subaru world and those are all Aluminum blocks, this is my first cast iron block.

The sheet I got back from my machine shop says bored 0.20' but after reviewing the recept I dont see any sleeve charges, I bet this is why!

Glad someone pointed this out.

I assure you I'm not a ricer newb, this is my first DSM Car so I'm learning as I go I appreciate the feed back tho!

My 1987 Subaru Loyale AWD 5-speed car I built ran 12.7@118mph and dyno'd 268AWHP and Weighed 2600lbs, I built and tuned the entire car myself from ground zero. Even did a 5-lug Full Time AWD Conversion on it.

This DSM has proved to be allot different compared to Subaru world, but thats why im here asking rather than just go out and do it without some experienced advice and blow it up being stupid.

 

[prostreetdsmx1]

oh no problem at all bro. that's what we are here for. Welcome to the dark side!

You'll love the iron block, it looooooooves boost.

The DSM is apples and oranges to the Subie world. We can go much further with a lot less.

The machine shop I sent the block to recommended to sleeve the block, so i figured thats what happened.

I'm from the Subaru world and those are all Aluminum blocks, this is my first cast iron block.

The sheet I got back from my machine shop says bored 0.20' but after reviewing the recept I dont see any sleeve charges, I bet this is why!

Glad someone pointed this out.

I assure you I'm not a ricer newb, this is my first DSM Car so I'm learning as I go I appreciate the feed back tho!

My 1987 Subaru Loyale AWD 5-speed car I built ran 12.7@118mph and dyno'd 268AWHP and Weighed 2600lbs, I built and tuned the entire car myself from ground zero. Even did a 5-lug Full Time AWD Conversion on it.

This DSM has proved to be allot different compared to Subaru world, but thats why im here asking rather than just go out and do it without some experienced advice and blow it up being stupid.

 

[hopwoodp]

I understand where you are coming from. Its good you ask questions. I just can't believe your machine shop didn't point that out to you.

One thing. Don't talk about street racing here. You will be banned for that.

 

[oldman]

sleeved bored .20 4g63 block nice.............

Play nice.

Bump

Welcome to Tuners, please familiarize yourself with the forum rules, bumping your thread will result in thread closure around here. As for street racing, hopwoodp has got that covered.

 

[90gst_sean]

dont forget your boost gauge and wideband. Theres some essential info in the dsmlink forum pages. You'll have to get a user name with your dsmlink purchase if you haven't yet.

Welcome...

... Chalk one up for the Pacific Northwest! WTF

 

[Steveman09]

I'm sorry about the forum rule about bumping, wont happen again.


Yeah bought a NGK AFX Wideband System for the car and I have an Autometer Vac/Boost Gauge allready installed along with an Oil Pressure Gauge in my 2-pillar POD.


So how much power should I expect to see with this build or can it handle with the internals im using I should say?

 

[chrish1440]

Everything looks fine exept I would switch the 264's for 272's, use an act 2900 clutch, run 1000cc injectors, use an externaly gate wastegate, and run a GT35R. That will get you low 11"s or even high 10's driven well, and probably 525-600whp.

 

[JohnTSI]

Ditch the coil on plug and spend the money on a SMIM.

 

[Steveman09]

Ditch the coil on plug and spend the money on a SMIM.

What is the SMIM?


I was looking at the GT35R and it looked good, the TO4R also looks very appealing


So hard to choose!!!!!

 

[stockfornow]

SMIM = Sheet Metal Intake Manifold

The runners, become a restriction pass like 6K rpms...

As far as your internalls, I wouldn't worry about them at all, except blowing head gaskets.

GT35R, has a great potential, and spools fairly quick.

 

[underradar92]

Sheet-Metal-Intake-Manifold. I agree with that trade, a stock intake will likely hinder your goal. I'd also say, since you believe a set of 272's isn't to your liking, may I suggest a 264I / 272E combo? It is said to be as torquey in the low to mid as an all 264 set, with noticably better HP numbers.

Someone beat me to the intake Q. ^^^

 

[Steveman09]

Sheet-Metal-Intake-Manifold. I agree with that trade, a stock intake will likely hinder your goal. I'd also say, since you believe a set of 272's isn't to your liking, may I suggest a 264I / 272E combo? It is said to be as torquey in the low to mid as an all 264 set, with noticably better HP numbers.

Someone beat me to the intake Q. ^^^

I will definitly look into the HKS 264/272 combo, I've heard good things about those cams with a GT35R. THE SMIM definitly looks like a good thing to try, but my concern is the fact that loosing the IAC valve might not be a good thing, but I'm guessing tuning with the DSMLINK can take care of that problem from what I've read on its capabilities.

Now I'm going to have to work on traction, I will definitly be making use of the FWD LSD installed in the tranny

Guess I'm going to have to spend allot on suspension setup to get the car to be usable below 50mph Any suggestions on this area anyone?

 

[underradar92]

but my concern is the fact that loosing the IAC valve might not be a good thing, but I'm guessing tuning with the DSMLINK can take care of that problem from what I've read on its capabilities.

If you use a stock style throttle body, and you can order an intake flanged that way, You may keep the ISC and the FIAV. I don't know if using a TB from another production car allows an idle speed controller to be grafted in, I would hope it's possible, as all it is, is a computer controlled vacuum leak.

Don't fret the smallness of the 60mm TB, it can easily meet your stated goals.