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Would you build your 7 bolt?

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RedWagon

15+ Year Contributor
93
0
Mar 10, 2005
Lincoln, Nebraska
Well right now Im in a deliberation deciding if I should risk it and build my 7 bolt in my 97 GSX or if I should get raped and buy a 6 bolt that are expensive around here for some reason. I've done the swap before on my old 95 GST that walked. My car currently has
95k miles and dont see any signs of it walking yet. The only issue is my tranny grinding in 1st and reverse but I didnt know if just changing the clutch or adjusting the rod under the clutch pedal would resolve this. Let me know what you guys think.

I just found a cheap 6 bolt longblock for 200 without manifolds and timing accessories like the pulley's and all the timing stuff but didnt know if the 7 bolt timing would work on a 6 bolt.
 
Well right now Im in a deliberation deciding if I should risk it and build my 7 bolt in my 97 GSX or if I should get raped and buy a 6 bolt that are expensive around here for some reason. I've done the swap before on my old 95 GST that walked. My car currently has
95k miles and dont see any signs of it walking yet. The only issue is my tranny grinding in 1st and reverse but I didnt know if just changing the clutch or adjusting the rod under the clutch pedal would resolve this. Let me know what you guys think.

I just found a cheap 6 bolt longblock for 200 without manifolds and timing accessories like the pulley's and all the timing stuff but didnt know if the 7 bolt timing would work on a 6 bolt.


You cant use 7 bolt timing components on a 6bolt. Get brand new timing components for a 6 bolt from machv.com. A 6 bolt for 200 is good. I sold my longblock for 500.
 
I built my 7 bolt and 50k miles later its still running strong, but if you have access to a cheap 6 bolt in decent shape I would build that instead.

I wouldnt reuse the timing components even if you were just rebuilding the 7 bolt, the timing components are one of the most important things on your motor, if one of them gives out you will most likely blow your motor, dont risk it and get new timing components either way.
 
If you've got the extra $200, swipe up the 6-bolt and continue on with your 7-bolt. That way you have the other motor to fall back on. Always nice to have options.
 
Loco4Life has the right idea. Scoop up a 6-bolt motor, and fall back onto it if needed. A lot of people have gotten away with 7-bolt build ups without problems, but a lot of people feel the chance of getting crankwalk isn't worth it, so they go directly with the 6-bolt swap.
 
I have 152k miles on my 95 not a problem i will be rebuilding shortly and the grinding problems...no a new clutch isn't going to fix it, its your gears.. might have cut them down a littlebit maybe rev`d and drop it into first that will shoot the gears. My brother had this problem in his stealth
 
i just built my 7 bolt. didnt want to go the same "safe route" and i like trying things. I did however nitrate my crank. basic build. pistons, rods, bs removal.
 
You could aways buy all my new 7 bolt internal parts and build one hell of a 7bolt LOL. My 7bolt went over 200,000 miles and never had a problem, till it spun a bearing, cause the oil pump went out I say be different and go with a 7bolt
 
I was thinking of building my 110k 7-bolt for strength, not for some "lofty" HP goal (I used to want like 1,000 when I was younger). Ross pistons, 1g big rods or Eagle, clevite bearings, arp studs and cometic hg. All I'm looking for 300 @ the wheels. This setup may be overkill to some for that goal but, I just want longevity and strength in case I do something stupid or my car decides to DSM itself. My opinion is go for it but, always have a Plan B.
 
Listen... this is what you do if you can afford it. With the seven bolts, make sure you tap it for arp's then have it honed. If you look at the mains, 7 bolts have huge girdles which realistically is stronger, IMO. But what i've seen out there are the billeted main caps (kick ass!!!) for the six bolts to strengthen even more the mains on the 6 bolt. Back to the seven bolt... if necessary, the one doing the build, make sure they check to see if dowls are needed to prevent the main and the block itself from adjusting or from having any movement. There are many theories to crankwalk, and I've read alot of people saying they had CW even though they never broke down their block. Either way, if you tap your mains, hone them for ARP's, either block would basically be bulletproof, as long as the machine shop knows what they're doing... like bearing clearances, etc. etc. I'm actually quoting slowboy on a 2.6 (yes they do exist) stroked out 4g64 (brian crower kit). They quoted me a good price but shit has changed job wise so the stroker kit that I already have in room along w/the 7 bolt is going to auto jackson machineing for there 2.3 stroker build and assembly service. Borg warner ET next, then Jacks Transmission... oh boy can't wait to go back in saving for that 2.6 :thumb: ridiculus tork baby!!!!
 
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