Engine running hot still. Replaced everything I can think of.

[EagleTalonTim]

After buying my 93 TSI AWD automatic for $300, I have dropped over $1000 in it just on repairs! This is getting ridiculous! Apart from my major tranny problem that no one knows what the problem is (Posted in the Driveline forum), my car has been running hot, or so it seems. I am still running the stock gauge, but I have never had a problem with them in the 3 other talons that I have owned (All N/T). I am not exactly sure if the gauge is supposed to read a little higher on the turbo models than the N/T's but my turbo model temp is running exactly in the middle of the gauge. My N/T reads right at the first squiggly line well under the middle mark.

Things I have replaced :
Radiator
Water Pump
Thermostat (180 degree)
Main Coolant fan (Thin one from Oreilly's)
All sensors on the T-stat housing with new ones.

Things I have checked :
Coolant fans turning on - they both worked when supposed to.
Air flow though the front - Brand new radiator, removed front A/C cooler.
Trans cooler is clean too.
Exhaust leaks - None.
Coolant color - Still green. 30/70 mixture.

I can take the car for a 2 mile test drive around the block and before I even get to the first turn, the temp gauge is already going up. By the time I get back to my place, it is at the middle and I can't touch anything under the hood for over an hour. I can take my N/T around the block 3 times before it gets up to normal running temperature, then let it sit for 30 min or so and the under hood temp is fine.

 

[Xit40]

Well it seems like you replaced most all of the main culprits of overheating. Do you have any way to actually check the coolant temp (i.e. a logger, etc.) other than the gauge because that's more of a general estimate. Just so you know my gauge reads about the same place. Then again I have no heat sheilds on my turbo. A turbo does add a ton of underhood heat though and you just may not be used to it.

 

[DoyoFCT]

in the middle of the gauge, isn't really abnormal in my opinion. i think you can buy some stuff that flushes the coolant system out. may unclog up some debris etc and make it more efficient. you may also want to consider better fans. also is your 30/70 mixture more coolant or water?

 

[EagleTalonTim]

I have nothing to actually read the temp and I don't have heat shields either. It still ran hot before I took it off. I removed it to see if there were any cracks in the manifold. There were none.

EDIT * 30 coolant, 70 water

 

[EagleTalonTim]

Sometimes, the gauge will shoot up past the middle mark if I am driving normal. My girl was driving home and the trans got stuck in limp mode and the temp gauge almost went to the red. I don't know what happened first...I was not in the car. I have checked the compression too. 155 across the board.

 

[Xit40]

Get a Palm Pilot (m100 can be had for next to nothing), make a obd I cable, and download some free logging software (mmcd works great for 1G guys). That way you can log your water temp and we can have something to go by. Besides it'll be one of the most useful tools you'll ever have for the car.

Just a thought: If the plastics under the bumper have been removed when your body kit was put on the cooling air might actually be going around your radiater rather than thru it.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

The pic on my avatar is actually my N/T model. I just recently removed the plastic skirt on the front bumper of my TSI because it was hanging and did not look good. It did not affect the temp at all when I took it off.

When I can get a reading, what is the temp supposed to be around? What is too hot?

 

[Catlin M2g]

My temp runs in the middle of the stock gauge most of the time...the turbo does add alot of heat... if you cant come up with anything and dont end up data logging try just getting an aftermarket gauge to actually check the real temp

 

[DoyoFCT]

You may also want to run an external transmission cooler. i guess there's a possibility your transmission is overheating bad and causing additional coolant temps. But I honestly don't know that much about auto dsm's to say that for sure. you may want to try that redline water wetter as well. Oh and is the radiator cap new?

 

[EagleTalonTim]

Yes, the radiator cap is brand new. I bought it when I got the radiator and water pump. I will see about getting a logger. That seems like it would be the best thing for me to do right now. Apparently it is a good way to keep track of what is going on with the car while I am driving

 

[BUCK]

After buying my 93 TSI AWD automatic for $300, I have dropped over $1000 in it just on repairs!

Completely NORMAL, I usually say $3K to get an old $300 AWD up to a reliable D/Driver.

Sometimes, the gauge will shoot up past the middle mark if I am driving normal. My girl was driving home and the trans got stuck in limp mode and the temp gauge almost went to the red. I don't know what happened first...I was not in the car. I have checked the compression too. 155 across the board.

Also completely NORMAL, I'm sure you are incorporating just ditching that Automatic into your long Range Plan so IMO do NOT drop a lotta buck$ into that POS AUTO - Good Luck

 

[EagleTalonTim]

actually, in the long run, I want to convert it to a manual. My girl does not know how to drive a standard and I am really wanting to teach her, but I cannot afford fixing broken transmission and motor mounts.

 

[BUCK]

Good plan re: the Manual - Gettin back to running Temps in Texas I would GUT the Cat - I use an Impact & an Auger bit & wear a filter mask - Theoretically that could help it cool a tad , although it also leans it out a tad - But it'll DEFINITELY run better & sound better...

 

[EagleTalonTim]

The cat is already gutted and has a 2 1/2 pipe run down the middle (Gets rid of the hollow sound). Since they don't check actual emissions, I still have to have something that looks like a cat on there.

 

[Cobrasatellite]

On my 94 i had the same issues your girl did. After replacing everything on the car related to cooling, I was gonna replace the radiator and noticed a sensor on the bottom of the radiator near the lower hose. That was the problem. Like 20 bucks to fix.

 

[Nanan]

actually, in the long run, I want to convert it to a manual. My girl does not know how to drive a standard and I am really wanting to teach her, but I cannot afford fixing broken transmission and motor mounts.

Why not get your auto trans built up? There are several guys on this forum running IPT trans parts running sub 10's.

Heh my Ex-GF couldn't drive my car back when I was running the ACT 3200# clutch setup, she only weighed like 105, she just didn't have the leg strength to push the clutch down far enough.

Put your exhaust manny and exhaust side turbo heat shielding back on, they help more then you realize.

Check your T-belt alignment, a single tooth forward on the exhaust cam can make your EGT run hot thus the whole damn engine runs hot.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

ok.....new update. I just went to the J/Y to test some sensors that I though might needed to be replaced and on my way home the gauge shot way up almost getting to the line before the red. I got home and ran inside to get my infrared temperature sensor and tested around the T-Stat housing. The highest I got was 245 degrees right around the bend on the T-Stat housing. I hope I did no mess up anything.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

And yet another update.....I remembered that I got the head milled awhile back when I replaced the 2 bent valves in it, and the guy shaved 23,000's off. Would that cause my overheating problem? Still registers at 245 degrees

 

[nightspeed87]

If you have a front mount use a metal sheet to direct air from going under the car ,
and wire your fans to stay on at all times when cars running.
Could be a bad water pump. On my n/t when the water pump was going out it would start
to over heat after a while. I run straight distilled water with water wetter, think that combo cools best

 

[EagleTalonTim]

the water pump is brand new. It is not a remanufactured either. The overheating was happening even before I pulled the front plastic pieces. Once it goes over the middle mark, it will stay above that mark. Would the head being shaved .23 thousands have anything to do with my problem?

 

[nightspeed87]

the water pump is brand new. It is not a remanufactured either. The overheating was happening even before I pulled the front plastic pieces. Once it goes over the middle mark, it will stay above that mark. Would the head being shaved .23 thousands have anything to do with my problem?

Not likely, for the head to have caused a problem from being to low you wouldve known already with bent valves and scared up pistons... Its probably not too low... Run straight distilled water with water wetter and see if that helps then post back.

 

[bling5tatus]

well if it starts running shitty now, it's time to compression test again.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

I just wired the fans to stay on and got rid of the fog light mounts and moved the front license plate over to the right side (not in front of the IC) and it seemed to be alot cooler. It did not even get to half way. We will see about tomorrow. It is supposed to get in the 100's tomorrow. YaY.

 

[Cobrasatellite]

Glad to hear your not over heating, but u may still wana try and figure out what the problem was. (did u check the lower sensor previously mentioned?)

 

[EagleTalonTim]

no, I don't know which one to check or how to check it.