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Rod knock? (video)

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dsmulla

15+ Year Contributor
200
1
Jun 27, 2007
Scarborough,
I am trying to figure out what is this noise that seems to be coming from the bottom end and is also evident on timing belt side. Now, there is no knock/noise during idle only when the motor is revved you hear it at the top of the rev.

Moreover, I had been battling overheating problems and changed the waterpump and that fixed that. This knock sort of sound was there before that as well. Could overheating have caused this knock noise? Also, the car vibrates a lot more escpecially when I give it some gas. My driver side motor mount is done and I think that could be it but the car vibrates very hard. My balance shafts have not been eliminated and could this sound having anything to do with them or the bearing?

Keep in my mind I can feel this knock is the gas pedal, throttle control from under the hood and the clutch. I don't think its crankwalk because I have inspected the crank by pulling on the crank pulley and there seems to be no movement.

All help is appreciated and just listen for the sound at top of the revs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_yBmLuxy6o

Osman
 
Pull off the spark plug wires one by one while it's idling and check for any difference in the noise. If it is rod knock, it will narrow down which cylinder. Also, check your pan for the remains of a bearing, or metal chips. Just draining and checking the oil sometimes will show nothing, such as my case. The sound is very similar to mine with a spun rear balance shaft bearing.
 
Drain the oil and drop the pan. Report back with your findings.

Here's what symptoms I had when my balance shaft bearing(rear shaft, spins with oil pump) spun:
Obvious initial noise and immediate loss of power when it happened
Engine would often die after being revved or pressing in the clutch coming to a stop
Constant drag on engine
Ticking/knocking sound depending on rpm
Somewhere between 3-4k rpm it sounded the worst
Idle was noisy but more like a tick than knock
Audible when the car drove by
 
Now I was just reading and I think my rear balance shaft is out of phase and thats what is causing the car to vibrate a lot under accerlation. Would that also effect the car dying out after coming to a stop or after it being revved? I don't think so but just wanted some other thoughts.
 
It would do nothing for putting drag on the engine if it was only out of phase, it would vibrate like crazy though. It is possible that it is 180 degrees out of phase and isn't that hard to screw up, but it wouldn't make any strange noises unless it is vibrating something else.

I suggest pulling the pan ASAP, otherwise there is a possibility of causing more damage, such as snapping the timing belt or having debris get into the crankcase.

My findings:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262587&highlight=reason+to+remove+balance+shafts
 
You see, I am not familiar with the 4G63 motor itself as I have never done a rebuild over even taken out the engine. I am just learning about this balance shaft stuff now. I guess you learn from your mistakes.

So BUCK, so you think it is the BS bearing then? I will dropping the pan 2morrow to see whats going on.

P.S I know, the video is kind of crappy and the sound is really only there when I let of the rpms or as RPMS rise.
 
When you pull the pan you'll be able to feel the knocking rod. If not, then get the BS elimination kit. If there is metal in your oil, you'd be wise to do a rebuild even if everything is A-OK. If no metal in the oil, and the BS elimination doesn't make it go away then I would start looking into accessories making a clacking sound. My old Volvo sounds like it has the worst piston slap ever, but it's just the PS pulley slapping against the bracket.
 
Aight, went to the mechanic today and he is saying it is for sure the rod bearings that are knocking. He says if he is going to drop the oil pan, might as well change the bearings. Now I told him how I tested the each cylinder by unplugging each spark plug wire at a time and the noise was still there. He replied by saying that it doesn't matter there will still be compression in the cylinders to cause that noise. So I am kinda confused now? What should I do?
 
I had hks cams 264/272s installed and never and still haven't had them tuned and car has never once died in 1300 miles (with the exception of spun bearings last year (nothing to do with cams though)).
 
When you pull the pan you'll be able to feel the knocking rod. If not, then get the BS elimination kit. If there is metal in your oil, you'd be wise to do a rebuild even if everything is A-OK. If no metal in the oil, and the BS elimination doesn't make it go away then I would start looking into accessories making a clacking sound. My old Volvo sounds like it has the worst piston slap ever, but it's just the PS pulley slapping against the bracket.

Just a little heads up too if you go with the BS Elimination Kit...MAKE SURE YOUR MECHANIC PAYS ATTENTION SPECIFICALLY with the kit. I spent about $8,000 building a new engine and only 1100 miles later, I spun ALL FOUR rod bearings and scored my NEW balanced and polished crank cause the initial builder installed the block-off bearing wrong. Then had to spend an additional $2200 (I could have cried) having a turbo mechanic fix the problem (turned and polished the crank) new ACL Race Rod/Main bearings.
 
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