Need some help

[NeilR777]

I have a 1995 Eagle Talon TSI AWD automatic.


I have a few problems and questions.

1.) Sometimes when I first start the car, I hear a squeeling, guessing its a belt... but sometimes when i start it cold it doesn't squeel and sometimes it doesnt, and once it is running for like 1-3 minutes it wont make that noise anymore.

2.) check engine light - - doesnt idle correctly, sometimes idles at 800, sometimes at 1700, was told it was the K&N air filter, needs to be cleaned and oil changed, is this true/possible to mess up the idle?

3.) I have an exhaust leak about directly under the middle of the car, (a bracket or something), is it possible for somebody to weld it [the gas tank, is it too close]

4.) I timed my 0-60, (i have a cold air intake also), and it was anywhere from 8 to 9 seconds... that is really slow, are all autos like that?

5.) Will 18" rims fit on my talon? (with lo profile tires)

6.) The car has 150,000 miles, I checked the timing belt and it seemed fine, do you think this car will last for a long time (We just changed plugs, wires, and valve cover gasket, everything inside seemed to be fine, except when we pulled out the old plugs they were smaller than what we put in, and they had a white powder on them [running lean?], hopefully they had the wrong plugs in? We used BPR something ES6 I think, I dont have it offhand.


Thanks, and I hope I get some good answers.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

1. You are right about the belts. Make sure the alternator and power steering belts are very tight. They are the 2 that most often come loose.

2. A dirty filter will not cause your up and down idle like that. Go to Autozone or a local garage and get the light checked and search the forums for the code.

3. Check where the exhaust leak is. If it's a gasket replace the gasket. If it's a crack in the exhaust either weld it or UPGRADE!

4. An auto is going to be slower than a manual in the 0-60 but with the mileage and shape of the car it can vary. Get a boost gauge and datalogger and test for leaks.

5. Yes 18" rims will fit.

6. BPR7ES is the plug for a stock car. If the timing belt seemed fine replace it anyways. Just to be sure. Check for gap between the teeth and cam gears. If you don't know when it was done do it anyways.

 

[96gstdsm]

I have a 1995 Eagle Talon TSI AWD automatic.


I have a few problems and questions.

1.) Sometimes when I first start the car, I hear a squeeling, guessing its a belt... but sometimes when i start it cold it doesn't squeel and sometimes it doesnt, and once it is running for like 1-3 minutes it wont make that noise anymore.

2.) check engine light - - doesnt idle correctly, sometimes idles at 800, sometimes at 1700, was told it was the K&N air filter, needs to be cleaned and oil changed, is this true/possible to mess up the idle?

3.) I have an exhaust leak about directly under the middle of the car, (a bracket or something), is it possible for somebody to weld it [the gas tank, is it too close]

4.) I timed my 0-60, (i have a cold air intake also), and it was anywhere from 8 to 9 seconds... that is really slow, are all autos like that?

5.) Will 18" rims fit on my talon? (with lo profile tires)

6.) The car has 150,000 miles, I checked the timing belt and it seemed fine, do you think this car will last for a long time (We just changed plugs, wires, and valve cover gasket, everything inside seemed to be fine, except when we pulled out the old plugs they were smaller than what we put in, and they had a white powder on them [running lean?], hopefully they had the wrong plugs in? We used BPR something ES6 I think, I dont have it offhand.


Thanks, and I hope I get some good answers.

Well the squealing I would say is most likely your power steering belt. See if it feels loose. If it is might as well replace it, they are pretty cheap.

For the check engine light, you gotta find a way to see what the code is. That will make it a lot easier to pinpoint the problem and fix it. Could be many different things.

As for your 0-60 times, how is your driving skills? Should be no matter what faster than that though. That is in the range of the prius and other small hybrids.

As for the condition of the car.

Do a compression test. Dry and wet
Do a boost leak test---Good chance that is what is contributing to your slow acceleration.
Check your turbo for shaft play.
Really would be very good to get some sort of a logging device so you can see if it is indeed running lean or if you are seeing any detonation etc.
The timing belt should be changed every 60k miles at most. If you don't know the last time it was replaced, to be safe, I would replace it. Change all fluids.

Is your car smoking at all?

The key to getting the car to last a long time is to really be very thorough with your maintenance. If everything checks out well with your compression test. Than as long as you get all the maintenance out of the way and don't abuse your car it should last for some time to come.

 

[NeilR777]

It has smoked for like 5 minutes before but then it quit, this was with the old plugs. Would there be a boost leak if my PSI guage goes to 13 PSI?

 

[NeilR777]

They also replaced the power steering pump before I bought the car... (dealership)

 

[NeilR777]

Also... how do I test it for shaft play [the turbo]?

 

[96gstdsm]

Also... how do I test it for shaft play [the turbo]?

You have to take the intake pipe off the turbo. Once it is off you can reach into the turbo inlet and feel the turbine blade. Gently try to wiggle it holding it by the middle of the blade. Make sure the car is cool when doing this as it can get pretty damn hot. If you are able to move it around a lot then that is not a good thing and chances are your turbo could be on it's way out.

Do you have an aftermarket boost gauge?

Definately do boost leak regardless if you think it is fine. There are many how to's here on making a boost leak tester. even if it is not your current problem, there most likely are some boost leaks and they still drain performance.

If they replaced the power steering pump check the belt as I would think that would be the most likely culprit for the squeak.

 

[NeilR777]

Yes I have an aftermarket PSi guage, do you know how much I could safely boost the stock turbo with a boost controller... also, is it easy to put a 16g evo3 turbo in it if my turbo is on its way out?

 

[96gstdsm]

Yes I have an aftermarket PSi guage, do you know how much I could safely boost the stock turbo with a boost controller... also, is it easy to put a 16g evo3 turbo in it if my turbo is on its way out?

I would say without a logger don't turn the boost up any more. Especially since you think it might be running lean. If you have some way to monitor knock and fuel etc then usually around 15 psi is pretty much safe with the stock turbo and fuel support.

The evo3 16g turbo you will need to modify some things. You need the 2g install kit.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DSM-2G-TURBO-INSTALL-KIT-ECLIPSE-TALON-NEW_W0QQitemZ110111275160QQihZ001QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

I'm sure you could find it cheaper by looking around. To really get much gain out of the bigger turbo though, you will start to need looking into fuel support.
Injectors
fuel pump
Some way to tune them would be next.

The best bet for you, is to worry about getting the maintenance out of the way. Once everything is running perfectly, or as close as it can be, than maybe start thinking about upgrading things. If you just go and slap on a new turbo without the fuel support or tuning or logging or anything, than your car I would say will not last long. No point building up an unstable engine. So check it out, do the maintenance and then you will have a little more peace of mind that it won't snap a timing belt, blow a rod etc. when you turn the boost up eventually.

 

[NeilR777]

Okay thanks, my local dealership called Amdahls has a four cylinder tune up for like $400, I am not sure wha they all do though, do you think it would be worth it, as in would they fix the things needed (are those things in most basic tune ups). I might end up selling my dirtbike and getting a dyno tune up to get a running perfect, unless that is a bad idea?

P.S. THanks for your help, your very helpful

 

[Defiant]

Harmonic balancer.

 

[NeilR777]

Well... I went to the local car dealer... keep in mind this a chrysler dealer... and they told me that the K&N air filter could have got oil on the MAF sensor, and that could be affecting the idle. Also, The auto shifts at 6200 - 6400 RPMs when it redlines at 7000, maybe that is what is making the time slower.



What do I all need to put an Evo3 16g turbo in besides the conversion kit.

(Fuel, etc.)

 

[96gstdsm]

Well... I went to the local car dealer... keep in mind this a chrysler dealer... and they told me that the K&N air filter could have got oil on the MAF sensor, and that could be affecting the idle. Also, The auto shifts at 6200 - 6400 RPMs when it redlines at 7000, maybe that is what is making the time slower.



What do I all need to put an Evo3 16g turbo in besides the conversion kit.

(Fuel, etc.)

Don't know about the MAF part, but for the 16g turbo to run it at any higher than stock boost, you will need new injectors, I would go with some 650cc ones. A 190 or 255 fuel pump(the 255 will require an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, a fuel pump rewire kit. The 190 rewired is plenty good for up to around 400whp. Once you got that, you will need some way to control the fuel. So an safc, dsmlink, ecu+ etc etc... An upgraded fuel exhaust system if you don't have one yet. Once you start running higher boost, you gotta be able to cool it, so thats when a front mount intercooler comes in handy. If you don't plan to push it very high then a supra sidemount intercooler would be sufficient. It is pretty likely that your stock clutch won't be able to handle the added power so might have to look into that also. Upgrading the turbo should really be the last thing you do. Built up all the supporting mods and then when complete get the turbo and you'll be set.