2g running 13s

[emoguitarboy]

Hey guys,

I did a quick search, I'm trying to get my car running 13's in 2 weeks; there's a ford v. mopar shoot out at PMI pueblo colorado (and I want to walk over some mustangs & neons) and I want to do it with out taking out my interior.

I wanted to put FMIC with hard pipes and Greddy BOV but I don't have 1k to drop on it; well unless I want to sell some of my home theater stuff (which I may do).

But I've heard I can do it with a K&N open exhaust and a MBC opened to 18PSI. I want to try to do it for cheap (maybe selling my extra TV and DVD players)

My car's all stock and I'm running at a bit of a higher altitude so I know that will effect it.

Plus I know that my driving needs some improvement so I'm gonna head out there as much as I can before.

 

[cumpersgsx]

a boost gauge is a must along with a boost controller. You can port your exhaust mani and your turbo for a little more air flow. Get a 1g intake manifold and port your head to match it. You could also run hard ic pipes with a 1g bov.

 

[northendtrooper]

buy a MBC (+boost controller). injectors around 550ccish. 190 pump. good to go. along w/ K&N filter and intake. you would look at mid 13s
it helps if you know friend who are willing to let you borrow their filter and intake. my friend let me borrow his intake i shook off 2 tenths of a second.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Boost gauge, MBC, Logger, Rewire the pump and if you turn the boost up to 18 you aren't going to get anything. Especially in Colorado. Turn it up to 16 or see if you can buy a 14b or 16g of sorts but unless you plan on taking out the interior I wouldn't try for 13's, one weekend of beating could do damage for many months to come. Need to read the rules and fill out your profile. What year you have? FWD, AWD? Is the car completely stock right now? If so I would worry more about routine maintenance stuff before I worry about beating a few Mustangs and Neons. Should be able to do that anyways.

 

[cumpersgsx]

buy a MBC (+boost controller). injectors around 550ccish. 190 pump. good to go. along w/ K&N filter and intake. you would look at mid 13s
it helps if you know friend who are willing to let you borrow their filter and intake. my friend let me borrow his intake i shook off 2 tenths of a second.

ya get the injectors and fuel pump too if you have the money. I left those out because i assumed this was a budget build. If you have an extra 250 this would be good too.

 

[mygsx2120]

Please disregard the first two post as they offer horrible advice. (no disrepect guys) The third one I agree with. I agree with everyone about a boost gauge.

1. First, do your exhaust. This should be the first mod on any turbo car. It makes the car more efficient, better gas mileage, and more horsepower. If your on a budget, have an exhaust shop just go 3in. from the flex pipe back. Remember a catalytic converter if you are smog tested.

2. Never turn the boost up without a LOGGER. This tells you if your motor is running lean or detonating, i.e. about to blow the F up. Tuning blind is a bad idea. Blowing up your motor to beat a neon isn't worth it.

3. Never turn the boost up without FUEL MODS. You need a 190lph fuel pump (rewired) at least. They are only $100. More boost always takes more fuel, end of story.

3. The stock turbo can only boost 16psi. Turning it up past that is useless and will make NO more power. Buy a used 14b turbo, with install kit it should only be $300 or so.

4. Your stock intercooler will be fine. Just buy an upper intercooler pipe and use a 1g bov. Cost about $100 for both.

5. Intakes don't do much, especially not 2/10 difference in a quater mile. Just buy a filter and adapter, or an ebay Bomz intake.

6. Now if you have a logger, you can buy a mbc and start turning up the boost.

7. The step beyond this is some 550cc injectors and a safc. Both of these can be bought for about $400. Tuning is everything.

Now you will be able to get into the 13's. The stock turbo sucks, that's all there is too it. Also driving is important. Besides, neons are slow, what are worried about. 14's will blow their doors off.

 

[mygsx2120]

port your head to match it.

i assumed this was a budget build

I'm sorry but those two statement conflict. It doesn't sound like he has the experience to pull his own head. Paying a shop to remove it and port it would be very expensive compared to better places the money could be spent. Plus on a t-25, what is the point?

 

[TiradoCC]

If you have the stock turbo on a 2g (t25) i wouldn't be turning up the boost that high. If you have a 1g(14b) i would get bigger injectors, SAFC, bigger fuel pump, FPR, and port the o2 housing and exhaust manifold. You should get all this stuff BEFORE you turn up your boost, or your going to have problems.

 

[mygsx2120]

Please fix your profile. You have tons of mods listed that apparently you don't have. What kind of car do you even have, because you profile says non-dsm. This will make it way easier for everyone to help you.

 

[northendtrooper]

Please disregard the first two post as they offer horrible advice. (no disrepect guys) The third one I agree with. I agree with everyone about a boost gauge.

just wondering.. hows my opinion bad advice? bad advice is selling his DSM and buying a neon. i turned up the boost on my 14b to 18 psi w/ no fuel mods ( yes i know, n00b) and was scratching 13s back. no motor damage what so ever. err wait..back to the topic
whats your budget? thats the best help you can help us w/

 

[Mr Peepers]

just wondering.. hows my opinion bad advice? bad advice is selling his DSM and buying a neon. i turned up the boost on my 14b to 18 psi w/ no fuel mods ( yes i know, n00b) and was scratching 13s back. no motor damage what so ever. err wait..back to the topic
whats your budget? thats the best help you can help us w/

Did you have a logger at the time to verify you weren't 100% IDC? Or logs to prove you weren't knocking? There is also a difference between 18 psi on a 14b and t25.

Do not just throw 550's in, you need something to compensate for them, such as an SAFC and logger.

Don't forget maintenance and a boost leak test so you can use your full potential.

Remove weight. If it's FWD take all the weight form the rear of the car you can. AWD, doesn't matter all that much at this point, just lose it. It will also be easier on your drive train. Spare tire, jack, complete tool set that wards off a breakdown

If you are AWD, it's all about the launch if you want a good ET. AWD will be much easier than FWD to hit 13's with the same power(slicks may change the story).

You can have all the power you want but it still depends on the driver.

Listen to mygsx2120 and 95blackGsTurbo

 

[cumpersgsx]

Please disregard the first two post as they offer horrible advice. (no disrepect guys) The third one I agree with. I agree with everyone about a boost gauge.

1. First, do your exhaust. This should be the first mod on any turbo car. It makes the car more efficient, better gas mileage, and more horsepower. If your on a budget, have an exhaust shop just go 3in. from the flex pipe back. Remember a catalytic converter if you are smog tested.

2. Never turn the boost up without a LOGGER. This tells you if your motor is running lean or detonating, i.e. about to blow the F up. Tuning blind is a bad idea. Blowing up your motor to beat a neon isn't worth it.

3. Never turn the boost up without FUEL MODS. You need a 190lph fuel pump (rewired) at least. They are only $100. More boost always takes more fuel, end of story.

3. The stock turbo can only boost 16psi. Turning it up past that is useless and will make NO more power. Buy a used 14b turbo, with install kit it should only be $300 or so.

4. Your stock intercooler will be fine. Just buy an upper intercooler pipe and use a 1g bov. Cost about $100 for both.

5. Intakes don't do much, especially not 2/10 difference in a quater mile. Just buy a filter and adapter, or an ebay Bomz intake.

6. Now if you have a logger, you can buy a mbc and start turning up the boost.

7. The step beyond this is some 550cc injectors and a safc. Both of these can be bought for about $400. Tuning is everything.

Now you will be able to get into the 13's. The stock turbo sucks, that's all there is too it. Also driving is important. Besides, neons are slow, what are worried about. 14's will blow their doors off.

how is my advice bad? I gave him the cheapest way to gain hp. Buy a carbide bit and learn how to port...that'll squeeze every little bit of hp out of the engine without modding the internals. His profile says he has an intake and exhaust so that didnt have to be mentioned. He doesnt need to do the fuel mods or need a logger to run 15psi on a t25 even though a logger should be the first thing you do. Thats the cheapest way...buying a 14b will cost more than everything i said. Yes it will be better off in the long run but he doesnt have much time and he doesnt need any big mods to reach 13s.

 

[Mr Peepers]

I do not recommend taking off the head to port match it to a 1g manifold unless you have it off for another reason. The 2g IM is not a restriction to 13's. Also, you have to factor in the price of new gaskets and head bolts or studs. Other than that I agree with everything you said crumpersgsx. 1g BOV is almost a must and if you can find hard IC piping that definitely won't hurt.

 

[emoguitarboy]

Thanks for all the advice thus far, btw sorry about the profile, I updated one part and forgot to update the rest... I'm running a 95 Talon AWD, the list of Mods I have is what the guy had listed in the sales add, so i have no idea if its correct or not. I'm trying to do this as inexpensively as I can. If I sell my Xbox360 with all that stuff I may be able to get 560 and then I have a coupple DVD players that I may be able to get a total of 80 for. I could sell my surround sound/dvd player for proably 200-250 (but I really don't want to do that) So my budget is gonna be less than 1k, so I'm trying to find the cheapest way to get my car to 13's. My best run on friday was 15.558 on Pump gas

 

[420a-t]

If you look in my profile, I ran a 13.8xx with all my current mods minus the evo 3 (I had a small 16g) and the meth and I was running 18psi on a 10.3./1 to a 10.5/1 afr. But I am auto tranny as well. Get the exhaust done and a turbo upgrade done right and all supporting mods for the extra air coming in, and see how you do.

 

[emoguitarboy]

OK, the performance mods I have are K&N filter and a 3" exhaust.

 

[Luckybob2485]

Running a 13 second quarter mile in colorado is not easy. I have many upgrades and i am putting down 260 wheel horsepower and 270 wheel torque and i have not gotten into the 13s yet at bandimere. It takes quite a bit of upgrades at this altitude to get into the 13s.

 

[emoguitarboy]

Well I'd be running at PMI (in Pueblo) so I know that its a little bit lower altitude, I just pray I can run 13's. I figure if I get 660's for 260, a S-AFC for 60, a hard-pipe kit for 200, and an intercooler for 150 then work on my driving skills I'd be good to go.

 

[nightspeed87]

Youd have trouble running fast in a 2g due to its weight with that level of mods. You can pull your passenger seat, back seats, front and rear crash beams, all sound deadening before you track it and just put it all back in after the track ( except sound deadner of course.) Get a fuel pump, a K &N filter, a mbc turn the boost up to 16 ( NO more than that. ) and drop your cat and run open dp at the track.
If you can get your hands on a used 14b or 16g that would help a lot, and if you have a dremel port the shit out of your o2 housing and manifold and port matching the exhaust ports wont require you to take the head off, just stuff a wrag in each port as you do it, your not taking off much material your just smoothing the ridges and bumps in the port.
With a real good launch and good driving and you may break into the high 13's but that will depend on how good of a driver you are. I dont know how bad the altitude will effect your times though, see I live in Fl and were pretty much at sea level.
Good luck.

 

[oimirageio]

Well I'd be running at PMI (in Pueblo) so I know that its a little bit lower altitude, I just pray I can run 13's. I figure if I get 660's for 260, a S-AFC for 60, a hard-pipe kit for 200, and an intercooler for 150 then work on my driving skills I'd be good to go.

Why are you going to buy larger injectors and an AFC without upgrading the fuel pump?? Its like turning on a sprinkler attached to a squirt gun IMO.....

Personally if you think $670.00 is going to get you into the low 13's you might want to read some more because, Sure it is possible but you might not have a running car after that 1 run....... You want a low sick run go buy a nitrous kit and cross your fingers but there is a reason why everyone spends alot of $$$$$$$ to run 13's safely and you wont blow your motor.....

OK Lets get back on subject but on a searious note, not just crossing our fingers and wishing for 13's. Your budget from what I see is $670.00, Now that leaves you with little mods but it might be possible for a low 14/high 13 since the altitude/oxygen difference.

Since you have a filter, exhaust, boost gauge and fuel, and some suspenshion mods/drag radials I recommend the following for the 13's as asked under the $670.00 budget.

First :Walbro 190 LPH with Install Kit: $90 from Extremepsi.com
Second : Nitrous Express : N-tercooler System #17992 $399.00 from Extremepsi.com
Third : Denso Iridium plugs $47.96 for 4 ....... from sparkplugs.com
Fourth: Magnecor 8.5mm Wire Set $80.00 from Extremepsi.com

That leaves you with $53.04 which is about 3 gallons of race fuel, make sure you have no more then that when going to the track and of course some $ to race with to get into the track... Im sure I will get some heat for the Nitrous Express recommendation but I am only recommending it because its safer then turning the boost up to 20psi for 1 run and im trying to meet the low budget 13.....

 

[emoguitarboy]

Yea, i don't think I can make 13's by the 18th, but hey, if I can get my Xbox & suround sound system sold I may be able to have a budget of 1k. So I guess I'll get the IC & pipes with a used 18G and see what I have left over.

 

[inneedof]

if you are on a budget build your own boost controller, you can do so for around $5

 

[nightspeed87]

Yea, i don't think I can make 13's by the 18th, but hey, if I can get my Xbox & suround sound system sold I may be able to have a budget of 1k. So I guess I'll get the IC & pipes with a used 18G and see what I have left over.

For the price youd likely not find a 18g worth the money for your level of mods
a evo3 16g would be better and cheaper. A 18g only outshines a 16g once you pass the
20 psi range and only marginally so. and your not ready for that kind of boost...

Re read my post before this one as i think it would get you in the 13s
and to add to it putting race gas in will def let you get away with a little more boost.
Something that works for me is a chipped ecu.

If you already have a eprom and you manage to get 1000 then this should put you in the 13s for sure-
My list will cost about 960$ ish if you can install everything yourself...

stage 3 Keydiver chip,(120$) bigger injectors(240$) K&N intake filter (50$), joe p. mbc ( 40$)
( The Chip will control whatever inj's you choose )
walbro 255lph(90$), a used evo3 16g( shouldnt pay more than 400$), datalogger(120$). Then Boom then do all the weight reduction I was telling you about, and then turn the boost up to 20psi ( Only with the race gas in there while logging for knock. ) And while doing all the porting i mentioned earlier and running open dp at the track and with good driving, and then you may be closer to 12s at that point. ( Depending on how long that clutch you have in there holds .)
Dont believe me then oh well I tried....

 

[polen]

you could do a 16g set up and injectors with boost controller. Id suggest selling your theater stuff if your trying to do it quick

 

[winterftbl]

Why not just go the ebay route and get a 16g for around $300 then get a 190 pump, then get some 550cc injectors, then use the rest of your money on racegas.