The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Fix Turbo or Buy New? Why does my tubo keep failing?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

n4g63

Probationary Member
28
0
Jun 1, 2006
Fort Mill, South Carolina
I had a stock turbo that started smoking. It was fixed/upgraded with a bigger compresser wheel for about $775 a year and a half ago. Now the same thing happened again and it will take $500+tax to get it back to the way it was (able to push 20psi but not done often). Should I get a new turbo or fix this one? I plan on selling my car as soon as it is fixed but I don't want to leave the car in bad shape when I sell it. What could be causing the turbo to continuously fail? Oil lines perhaps?
 
Definately just buy a new turbo. An MHI evo III is only $539 shipped, and it will outflow the t-28 that you have. More power for the same price, seems simple to me.
 
Well if your selling the car any why spend more money than you need to. Just buy a used t-25 and be done with it. I mean i looked at your mods you really dont have the support to run 20+psi unless you mods are not updated in your profile. Besides its really pointless to upgrade the turbo for some one else IMO.
 
I agree with forcefed 95. You can get a decent t25 for under $100 and a 14b for $150. If you are going to sell the car just buy either stock turbo... with the t25 it will bolt up, the 14b you will need the "install kit" for it (jpipe, oil return, water lines).
 
is there a place to buy a new stock turbo? I tried the used route already and found 1 stock turbo that had too much wrong with it to be worth the $375 that the were asking.
 
Dude. I'll sell you the 14b I have on my spare 1990 awd for 150. Who in there right mind would ask 375 for a stock used turbo LOL
 
how do I know what I am buying from people online is worth the money? how do I know if I will even get it? How do I know how much shaft play or any other factors effect the turbo I would be getting?
 
I have a great condition T25 I'm selling. Last time I checked it it has very, very little to no side/side shaft play, absolutely no in and out shaft play, doesn't burn or leak oil, has been turbo timed for most of its life, and it has never been boosted past 15 psi. It also has low mileage. PM me if you are interested. You can check my eBay feedback for reference.

Some advice for checking a turbo:
- Visually inspect the outside of the turbo for any damage (i.e., cracks).
- If the turbo is internally gated check if the wastegate flapper opens and closes properly.
- Check the compressor wheel for:
1. in and out shaft play - push and pull on the turbine nut (the center of the wheel) to see if there's any in and out movement. Don't go crazy pushing or pulling it, but apply a little strength. Any in and out shaft play is an indicator of the turbo is on its way to its death.
2. side to side shaft play - a little side to side shaft play is okay as long as the wheel DOES NOT touch the housing. If you see scrapes or damage on the inside of the housing that looks like the wheel has touched the housing I would not buy the turbo.
3. visually look at the wheel and make sure that the individual fins are not chipped, bent, or damaged in any other way.
4. make sure that the wheel spins freely when you move it.
5. check for any carbon build-up on the turbo (not sure about this one. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. A friend told me about it). Don't forget to check how dirty the wheel and the inside of the housing is.

That's all the advice I can think of so far. I'm sure other DSMers will add more advice and tips later.


To the OP, how much do you have to spend? A T25, and T28 turbo is a direct bolt-on turbo. If you get a 14b, or 16g you'll need a 2g install kit. Those install kits cost anywhere from $150-$320 alone. You can piece a kit together if you want. The cheapest solution is to find a used T25 or T28 since you don't need the install kit. Or if you have money for a bigger turbo you can jump to a 50-trim variant, but you'll need supporting mods to fully utilize one of those.
 
how do I know what I am buying from people online is worth the money? how do I know if I will even get it? How do I know how much shaft play or any other factors effect the turbo I would be getting?

To tell you the truth you don't. Thats why its very iffy when you buy a turbo off someone used. The best thing to do is look at their past history if they have any. Trust me I know, I bought a half assed rebuilt turbo that was missing the oil seal WTF.

Some advice for checking a turbo:
- Visually inspect the outside of the turbo for any damage (i.e., cracks).
- If the turbo is internally gated check if the wastegate flapper opens and closes properly.
- Check the compressor wheel for:
1. in and out shaft play - push and pull on the turbine nut (the center of the wheel) to see if there's any in and out movement. Don't go crazy pull it, but apply a little strength. Any in and out shaft play is an indicator of the turbo is on its way to its death.
2. side to side shaft play - a little side to side shaft play is okay as long as the wheel DOES NOT touch the housing. If you see scrapes or damage on the inside of the housing that looks like the wheel has touched the housing I would not buy the turbo.
3. visually look at the wheel and make sure that the individual fins are not chipped, bent, or damaged in any other way.
4. make sure that the wheel spins freely when you move it.
5. check for any carbon build-up on the turbo (not sure about this one. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. A friend told me about it).

The problem is you cant check all these things over the net. All you can really see is if the blades arnt chipped. Its the sellers word that you have to go by, when they talk about shaft play.
 
where could I get a new turbo that would be a direct bolt on? does anyone know all I should check and how I should check to see why the turbo has been failing?
 
check here in the classifieds for a turbo...check the feedback about the seller.
You can find a good one for around $100
 
still back to the other question... what could be the reason the turbo kept failing? just oil lines? does an oil catch can make a difference?
 
still back to the other question... what could be the reason the turbo kept failing? just oil lines? does an oil catch can make a difference?

You said you were able to push around 20psi, but not often. What psi is your boost controller set at when you drive your car normally? I don't see much supporting mods for you to be able to push that much psi without getting knock or hurting something. Are you able to take the turbo apart to take photos and post them here?
 
its at a turbo shop up in concord,nc right now, waiting for my $500 decision... so I probably cant take pics. I have all the mods on my profile though. what am I supposed to have as far as supporting mods?

I push around 15 psi normally
 
where could I get a new turbo that would be a direct bolt on?

I'm still confused. Why do you want a "new" stock turbo if you are selling the car?

While you can never be guaranteed of anything when buying something online (or in person for that matter), there are plenty of reputable people and sources around for picking up a decent used replacement turbo for cheap.

Or if you're selling it anyway, knock $150-$200 off the asking price and let a new owner put whatever turbo on it they want ... and save yourself the hassle :D
 
a car is harder to sell when its not running and my biggest problem is, my car is AT. anyone that would be interested in buying a car and fixing it most likely only drives MT cars. I don't expect my gst to go in good hands : ( do you know of any reputable people that have what Im looking for?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top