What viscosity should I use with Royal Purple

[1998gstspyder]

Car is: 98 gst spyder with 75k
Car mods are:

evo 3 16g
dejon tool intake
cone air filter
mbc (soon to be dual setting ebc)
ets street/strip fmic
660cc injectors
190lph fuel pump
safc2
evo3 o2 ported housing
2g intake manifold ported
apexi 3 inch turboback (no cats)
act 2100/12 lbs flywheel
egt/boost guage/a/f guage/logging software.

so ya what viscosity? (royal purple)

 

[dtowneclipse]

Your thread has been replied to on Talk.

 

[1998gstspyder]

well here is more info you suggested I include:

i drive the car on weekends, and i drive pretty hard when i do.

the weather is usually hot, (los angeles), but i usually drive my car at nights when its cooler.

It's a combination of city/highway.

Also i want to get my car dynoed and I know oil can make a slight difference in the numbers, so whatever that will give me higher hp/torque

 

[SleeperG]

i've used nothing but 10w30 in any of my 63/64's
no matter how many miles, no matter how hard i drive it.

had a stock 4g64 dohc in my 1994 galant gs
drove it for 200k miles beat on it every day. pretty much redlined 1st and 2nd all day long, to work, to school, while racing, while cruising.
just beat the shit out of it every day.
only used mobil1 10w30.
sold my moor to a friend for a build.
machinist took it apart.
every single bearing was within factory service limits.
every single one.
3 cylinders were nearly perfect(just needed to be honed to remove a little glaze), and cylinder 1 only needed .001 over.

with that said, i've found no need to buy designer oils.
people can claim this and claim that, redline, royal purple, motul, amsoil, may all be better, hell they may be the greatest thing ever.
but for the price of mobil1, i get all the protection i need.

 

[Loewen21]

10w30. Always. Except winter in canada

 

[Hop]

I've called Royal Purple's tech support and they suggested using the XPR series or Royal Purple 21 in my car. Same stuff. XRP is the new name.

The Royal Purple Race 11 = 5w20, Race 21 = 5w30 & Race 41 = 10w40.

The "high performance" series of motor oils have to adhere to the automotive oil standards which dictate how much or how little of an additive can be put into the oil. You can get that version at auto parts stores.

Royal Purple makes the race (XRP) version using whatever combination of additives they think is best for each application. They said the 11 series is too thin for my application unless I'm really turning very high rpm.

Race 21 for me. It's stronger film has probably saved my ass a couple times too.

 

[staticbrainwash]

Mobile 10w30 for me, always. Worked well in my 93 NA, my 95 cherokee sport, and my 92 tsi awd.

 

[Smitherines]

Mobile 10w30 for me, always. Worked well in my 93 NA, my 95 Cherokee sport, and my 92 tsi awd.

Same here, but why the hell did you have to bring a Jeep into the conversation Geoff, .

Quite an extensive list of smileys. Just a side-note though, when you use synthetic oils, make sure your seals are good as they will leak out any chance they get.

 

[staticbrainwash]

Hey, i gotta rep jeep. I grew up around them, and my parents have two now still that i work on. I just put straight pipe and a flowmaster on our cherokee sport. Let me tell you, that 4.0 HO sounds MEAN.

I second the seals thing. Some people have alright luck in older motors, but be careful. Synthetic is a fun way of telling if valve seals are bad though, haha.

 

[1998gstspyder]

seems like most of you are sayin 10w30, but according to this page...

http://www.royalpurple.com/techa/whichoil.html

under "For These High Performance Automotive Drag Racing2 Applications" and "Forced Induction" they only have 10w40...they don't even have 10w30 for high performance (they do have regular 10w30)

so what do you guys think now?

 

[Talesin]

Feh, I still run Castrol GTX 20W50. No point in tossing out for the top end stuff, unless you're just sticker-tuning.

 

[Defiant]

It really won't matter. Over the life of a car's engine, the oil choice may (but probably won't) make a thousand-mile difference.
By the time modern engines die, the oil choice is essentially never the cause of the final demise.

However, when you have an obsessive oil question that just won't let you sleep at night, particularly in the case of a boutique manufacturer such as Royal Purple or Red Line, call them and ask. They all take remarkable care and interest for their customers.

And you can be assured that your version of "driving pretty hard" is nothing to the motor.

 

[Hop]

Things can go bad in a hurry on a turbo car at the track though.

RP did say that you could blend two or more versions (I was asking about the XPR stuff at the time) to get to the viscosity you wanted.