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Extremely low HorsePower!!

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jawar666

15+ Year Contributor
103
1
Jun 5, 2007
Costa Rica, Central America
I have searched through old threads but I haven't seen to find what I'm looking for exactly...
I also know you always recommend to follow the 'upgrade path' you have posted in an article whithin this website... and that it looks very similar to others that I have found in Buschur Racing's website and Road Race Engineering Website's too!... However I think it is not the path I need to follow, at least for now...

Anyway, less talk... here's my problem... I took my 2g Eclipse GST to the Dyno, and the numbers were even lower than I thought it would be... 125 hp and 152 torque... I think that's very low, even for a stock engine...

I'm taking my car to a DSM mechanic, and we made the compression test which it threw numbers like (140,140,120,140).... I have also noticed that my car is burning oil as crazy.... When I first took it there I changed the oil and I used 10w30, but it was burning it so quickly that I changed it again for 25w60 to try to avoid the situation, I also changed the spark plugs for NGK's BPR6ES... All this improved the situation a little, but just a little... I also removed my cat and installed a test-pipe instead of it to try to regain some horses... Ah ok, and also my clutch is slipping a little bit

According to my mechanic, looks like we have no option rather than opening the engine to replace the piston rings, and probably rebuild the head.... But since he is a DSM enthusiastic too, he's trying to convince me to install rebuild the engine with aftermarket parts now that I have to open the engine, so I can avoid doing that later in the future...



What do you think guys?

Some of the parts he told to get are:

Cometic Head Gasket with ARP Head Studs (I'm definetely getting these)
Fidanza Flywheel (I'm not sure about this one)
Forged Pistons with rings; JE, Ross, Wiseco (I'm not sure about this one)
Forged Connecting Rods; Eagle, Scats, Manley (I'm not sure about this one)
Clevite Bearings; Main and Rods (I'm definetely getting these)
Rebuilding the Head (I'm not sure of doing this yet)
Rebuild the Clutch Kit (I think I need to do it anyhow)
Magnecor 8.5mm spark plug wires (I'm definetely getting these)
K&N FIPK (I'm not sure about this one)


Thanks all for your comments and suggestions
 
Well, since you do need a rebuild on the bottom end, if you have the money, I'd go ahead and do what he's telling you. However, the head is up to you. If it's in good condition, you should be fine, unless you know what plans you have for the car in the future.

I think the list above is good aside from a few things. You don't rebuild a clutch, you get a new clutch disk, a new pressure plate, TO bearing, and possibly clutch fork and pivot ball. Also, don't waste your money on the FIPK. Just get a K&N cone filter that will fit your MAF. And finally, if you're doing a rebuild, why not go 6-bolt?
 
I'd say his list looks good. Stick with your seven bolt its less hairy than doing a 6 bolt swap. This will also give you a great bottom end motor to bolt on whatever else you want.
 
Definately go with the list of parts he has given you. If you dont want to spend the money on new rods and pistons than dont. Its not necessary to replace the rods and pistons to make good power. Its just added strength.
Good luck with the build. :thumb:
 
Thanks all for your comments...

My mechanic also offered me that instead of rebuilding the head I have, he can give me a 1g head he has in his garage... I just need to look for a thermosthat housing for the 1g head, because the one I have on my 2g head does not fit... How you like that?

I also would like to know what do you think my problem is? I mean, have you seen a 2g 4g63t throwing 125 whp ever???? When I took the car to the dyno I was hoping to get 160-170 at least... :sosad:

But it didn't obviously....
 
If you rebuild it get the rotating assembly(crank,rods,pistons) balanced. It will give you more horsepower, make the engine run smooth, and the engine will last alot longer. Vibrations will wipe bearings out fast, really fast. If you do it make sure they use your flywheel and balancer/front pully unless both are "zero" or "neutral" balance.
 
Well, since you do need a rebuild on the bottom end, if you have the money, I'd go ahead and do what he's telling you. However, the head is up to you. If it's in good condition, you should be fine, unless you know what plans you have for the car in the future.

I think the list above is good aside from a few things. You don't rebuild a clutch, you get a new clutch disk, a new pressure plate, TO bearing, and possibly clutch fork and pivot ball. Also, don't waste your money on the FIPK. Just get a K&N cone filter that will fit your MAF. And finally, if you're doing a rebuild, why not go 6-bolt?


I am guessing its an auto and he is talking about replacing the clutch packs.
 
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