Jdm Mitsubishi 4g63t Motors ?

[l3igl3ang]

Hi dose any one know if these motors are good i found one on ebay for $1,500 thats for every thing even tranny and said to have any where from 25k to 50k miles on it. I was wanting to buy this set up and to replace my 150k motor which has a major oil leak and tranny has a synriod out and altantor is on its last leg so i figerd i would spend the money and get a low milage motor and me and some m8s who has did a 4g63t 6 bolt swap help me put it in.


Just want to make sure its worth the money or should i get a rebuilt one? i just dont want to pay over $2,200 for a rebuilt motor which at that price is high unless it has a tranny as well

 

[Jeff_Ciesielski]

Its important to remember that a 'jdm' motor is nothing but a japanese junkyard engine. No warranty, and those 50k miles could be some pretty hard miles. That said, if you are willing to do a thorough inspection of the motor, it could be a pretty good deal.

 

[gsxtacy]

l3ang-

It is important to note, you have a 2G FWD specific transmission. There are no JDM 2G FWD transmissions.

Just get a Complete 4g63T 6 bolt AWD transmission combo JDM engine and you'll have enough stuff to perform a proper 6 bolt swap AND you can sell the JDM transmission to a needy 1G guy and recoup 60% of what a transmission rebuild will cost......

Good luck!

 

[BoostedinSoFla]

Hi dose any one know if these motors are good i found one on ebay for $1,500 thats for every thing even tranny and said to have any where from 25k to 50k miles on it. I was wanting to buy this set up and to replace my 150k motor which has a major oil leak and tranny has a synriod out and altantor is on its last leg so i figerd i would spend the money and get a low milage motor and me and some m8s who has did a 4g63t 6 bolt swap help me put it in.


Just want to make sure its worth the money or should i get a rebuilt one? i just dont want to pay over $2,200 for a rebuilt motor which at that price is high unless it has a tranny as well

I feel you, and I bet I know what auction you're referring to. Maybe this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-...tegoryZ33615QQihZ007QQitemZ170116647814QQrdZ1

This guy is in Miami and I actually came across the auction myself and had an idea of buying it if my new project doesn't go too well. I've heard great things about this guy so you shouldn't have a problem....hopefully it's him.

 

[pitbull419]

You guys have to think here.
Why do you think there are so many of these engines coming over here?
ALot of them are from cars that have been totaled,cought on fire due to racing them, and they race them hard over there.So if its been wrecked did anything get broke on the motor?If it cought on fire what all got burnt?
You dont know for sure.

 

[Turboeagletalon]

well that statement about where all thease jdm motors is only half true. They have laws over there about amounts of miles that can be put on a motor. Something to do with there emissions. Plus the burn i higher octane.

I say it looks like a good deal if your just trying to get a motor and go. If you wont to mod this car heavily. I would go for a 6bolt swop.

 

[boostedgsx1997]

OK guys, I see you all have made some good points but I believe the truth really is this. Most of these engine are around really around 50k miles since the law in Japan about emissions is really really strict. Some are from wreckage and some are from fire but most are just out of cars that were good. I have a friend that was there doing this business, in LA he was buying engines from japan and transporting them here. After around 50K miles these engine CANNOT pass emissisions. So they are trash, and of course since Europe and US have not so strict laws they are transported over the seas. Do they last ? HELL YEAH
I can say from experince that these are one of the strongest engines. I have a friend with such JDM motor, swapped out of his car to another car, beat the shit out of it, swapped it a couple more times and again did a swap to his talon and that engine is still kicking strong. My girlfriends brother just bought one, opened it up and that thing looks awesome condition. I was amazed. BUT sometimes the worst happens, I have heard of people buying such engines from ebay and they throw a rod or something happens in a couple of months. My opinion, engine defect. Nothing is 100%. It may blow right away when you start it, it may have been overheated before and the head might be bad, rings might be blowing oil through but in my opinion , if I needed a engine I would buy a JDM motor for sure. I comapred my friends JDM block 7 bolt to mine and they are different. Not much but they is difference in the design and I dont know why. Both are 4g63t blocks. I cannot tell you go buy this engine it will last 500hp for 10 years and it will never die since thats a lie, but I can tell you that JDM motors are strong motors and are really around 50K miles.

Good luck on your decision

 

[gsxeclipse97]

the jdm motor is the same as the us 6-bolt. the only difference is that the jdm motor came with a cyclone intake manifold and a red valve cover, assuming it came out of a galant vr4. by the way the evo engine code is 4g63t as well and its a completely different motor from the dsm and early models.

 

[boostedgsx1997]

For guys looking for clean used Japanese engines and transmissions here is a list of the So Cal companies and some additional nation wide locations that import them. Prices vary a lot between them, for the most part you get what you pay for. Between them all, usually two or three will have turbo motors and trannies in stock.

4G63 Motors typically go from $900 to $1400 including manifolds and turbo. Most will be 89-91 GVR-4 motors with a TDO5-14B turbo. You have a 20% chance of getting 91-93 motor with a 16G turbo. You have a 5% chance of getting a 91-93 RS version motor with the yellow bodied 510cc injectors and a Big 16G. It is very hard to tell for sure exactly what motor you will be getting. The best way to try to ascertain which it might be is to ask them to look at the turbo and the color of the injectors.

TDO4 (written on the compressor housing) Tiny turbo from an Auto Tranny car. Same motor, tiny turbo and manifold.

TDO5-14B: All the vanes on the compressor wheel will be the same size. Injectors will be blue (450cc).

TDO5-16G: The vanes on the turbo will be alternating big/small/big/small. Injector color is still blue (450cc)

Big 16G: The vanes on the turbo will be alternating big/small/big/small. Injector color is yellow (510cc)

Still, you will probably be stuck with what is available. Try not to be too picky with which turbo, the condition of the motor is more important. Most will be steam cleaned somewhat, I would rather get one before they clean it up so I can better see what it's real condition was. But by looking inside the oil cap you can get a better idea of how the motor was maintained. A yellowed tint to the inner workings of the cylinder head means less oil changes. A nice clean aluminum color means more oil changes. By taking off the oil filter and cutting it open, you can gain a little knowledge of the motor condition too. Not that you can do this by phone before you buy it but if you are assertive enough when it gets dropped off you might be able to check these things before you take delivery of it.

There is no "Cyclone Motor" The long blocks from Japan are the same year for year as the US motors. They will usually have the Cyclone intake manifolds on them. This is just a dual runner (similar to Toyota's TVIS system) intake manifold that gave a little better bottom end power IF you have all the electronics to properly actuate the butterfly valves. Also there are clearance issues between the Cyclone manifold and the larger US A/C compressor. Yes you can use it, but not really worth the hassle. Some manifolds will say "Cyclone" on them but not have the dual runner butterfly system. The timing belt upper covers sometimes can be slightly damaged from shipping, also the igniter or coil pack may be damaged. This usually happens in the shipping container on the boat ride from Japan.

Valve covers: Most will have red valve covers, these are from a GVR-4. There are many other Mitsubishis that also used a 1G style turbo 4G63, they can have silver valve covers. As far as we have seen in person and from digging around in the CAPS parts CD, all the long blocks are the same regardless of what turbo or car they came from. They are the same as A US DSM 1G 4G63 from the same year. You still need to be aware of the differences between the early 89-92 6 Bolt Crank motors and the later 93-94 US 7 Bolt crank motors.

EVO Motors: The valve covers of the EVO 1-3 motors will be a kind of titanium color. They are the same as a US 2G motor with nothing fancy. They have the smaller 2G style intake ports, a small runner intake manifold with a larger plenum and a larger throttle body than a 2G motor. Still they are hard to find. Many are from other 4G63 powered cars and can have small 13G sized turbos. They will not bolt into a 1G because there are no provisions for the front roll stopper motor mounts that bolt to the block. Everything in Japan from 94 and up has the front and rear roll stopper motor mounts on the transmission 2G Eclipse style. Many people are running around yapping about how they have an EVO motor in their car. If it bolts into a 1G, it isn't an EVO motor.

When calling these guys you may have to deal with some heavy accents. We ask for "four by four" on the transmissions. "Four wheel drive" can be confused with "front wheel drive" sometimes. AWD trans go from $450-700 including transfer cases. Feel free to to try to cut a better deal if they have the motor and tranny still in one piece. They will often discount it a bit if you buy both. Be careful about what trannies you buy. In Japan they have several different final drive ratios. Anything with close ratio gears or a LSD front diff will most likely have the wrong final drive ratio. Any tranny with a strange vacuum actuator hanging off the front will be very old and has the wrong gear ratios also.

There is no way to determine the mileage on these. They will always quote 40,000-60,000 but there is no way to really know. Most are very clean. They guarantee the motors and trans for 6 months and usually 6,000 miles, but just the parts and not the labor or shipping. In Japan they have very strict licensing laws and regulations which get older cars off the street at a young age. Do you really think there are 12 year old GVR4s getting scrapped with only 40,000-60,000 miles on the odometer? I don't.

 

[Nors]

Personally, instead of paying $1500 I am going to be purchasing a USDM motor from someone, for like $500 and then drop another $500 on Tbelt, B Shaft elimination, thermostat, water pump, head gasket, arp studs, and various little matience items. So if you plan on doing Tbelt and water pump after already paying $1500 it can get a little pricey.

 

[Jake30]

I have ripped apart a few of these so called "JDM" motors and they were filthy! Valve seals were shot, shit load of carbon on the head, sludge throughout the motor. These motors are not pulled then sold right away. Another thing to think about is, it would take at least a month to get to the US by boat and who knows how long they have been sitting in Japan or the US.

Having an engine just sit for an extensive period of time is not good for it. All of that has steered me away from JDM engines and for not much more, you could have a rebuilt motor with 0 miles on it.

 

[19Eclipse90]

There was(is) one in my car when I bought it; I've done nothing but normal maintanence to it (& replaced a headgasket just to be on the safe side). That motor is peppy as hell.
Also bought one for a N/T 3000GT we had - also performed normal maintanence before dropping it in and then did a few oil changes within the next 3000miles. It was one of the stronger motors we had in the family. In my experiences, JDM motors are not all that bad. Take it FWIW.

 

[l3igl3ang]

yeah that was the auction i found i contacted the seller already and really thinking about doing it cause mine has 151k miles on it and leaks oil like a mofo and the tranny 4th gear synriod is so all the money i would spend to rebuild the tranny and fix the oil leak i might as well put another motor in it that has low milage

and i dont plan to do much modding to it just the basic stuff was thinking about putting on a big28 tubro which i belive is a borad out stock tubro which would be plenty for me

and i would do a 6 bolt swap but after i seen my firends AWD with a 1g motor and all the modding he had to do to make it work i figerd i would stick with a 2g motor

 

[dsm-onster]

Gees! you can get a "poor" american motor for $500. Get a decent mechanic to throw a set of rings and bearings in for $500 (including parts; polish the crank if neccesary). And still have $500 left for a evo3 16g. You'll have an engine w/ ZERO miles on it and a 400hp capable turbo. Get a tranny for under $400 at a bone yard.

150K is NOT hard on these engines. 30 psi rs60T, hot cams and high rev limit on 190K+ block here. 150+ psi across the board still.

As far as I was educated, a jdm of a particular year is identical to a usdm of the same year. So a jdm 1992+ engine would be just as weak (or strong) as a (usdm) 7-bolt.

Fixing an oil leak is in no way equal in cost to a $1500 engine/tranny (low mileage or not).

 

[l3igl3ang]

Gees! you can get a "poor" american motor for $500. Get a decent mechanic to throw a set of rings and bearings in for $500 (including parts; polish the crank if neccesary). And still have $500 left for a evo3 16g. You'll have an engine w/ ZERO miles on it and a 400hp capable turbo. Get a tranny for under $400 at a bone yard.

150K is NOT hard on these engines. 30 psi rs60T, hot cams and high rev limit on 190K+ block here. 150+ psi across the board still.

As far as I was educated, a jdm of a particular year is identical to a usdm of the same year. So a jdm 1992+ engine would be just as weak (or strong) as a (usdm) 7-bolt.

Fixing an oil leak is in no way equal in cost to a $1500 engine/tranny (low mileage or not).

well it also needs the tranny rebuilt as stated above the 4th gear wont even engauge it grinds and last time i paid a tranny shop to put a clutch in my 420a N/T the bastrds charged me $700 to buy it and put it in then amonth later the tranny went out and i had to replace it which this time i said f**k it and took me chances and me and a freind replaced it and it works but work like crap but it got the job done and is my daily driver

so i know around here to have a oil leak fixed which im almost sure its eather the front seal or head gasket these greedy repair shops which charge around 1k to do it then i know it would be over 700$ to rebuild me tranny unless i bought one at a salavge which would probly be $300 or $400 and me and my friend can install it which would total about $1,400 for a motor that will still have 150k on it

My friend who has a gsx paid $2,100 for a rebuilt 6 bolt block so i know there not going to be cheap in my area to have one rebuilt unless its some shade tree enginer who dose it.

 

[dsm-onster]

You have to understand that these engines just don't wear out quickly. 150K is nothing. They do die, but die hard. Have you run a compression check? I've seen a 4g63 motor w/ 120 psi across the board roll out a 10sec timeslip. I believe in the old saying, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." If you're w/in factory spec, then you're wasting your money getting another engine OR a rebuild (even if you have a friend & only have to pay for parts) when your current engine has under 200K. Pay for a tranny because that's broken. For more see: How many miles does your DSM have?

If you lived in the Northern VA area, I could give you several cards of full time reputable ase certified machanics that will spec your crank and bore, hone and replace rings and drop in bearings. They spec the block but nothing usually needs to be done. So its the cost of labor for swapping out what I mentioned rings and bearings plus the cost of those components.

I agree. If you just don't believe me about the durability of these engines and mechanics in your area charge this much for a rebuild, then go the rout you mentioned. I'm just trying to give you the courage to try swapping your tranny yourself. You've done one clutch swap already. You'll get better this time around. If you don't have time and you're willing to spend the money then get a low mileage block and tranny for 1500.

I just wanted you to know that many guys just get a jy engine and tranny. And, simply replace the rod bearings and rings. This can be done in the car (in-frame rebuild). And considering your goals this would be all that's neccesary for a great daily driver. I've dropped in jy engines and ran a compression check and noted 150+ psi across the board with the cylinders being all w/in 2 psi of each other. What's the difference between 50K and 150K where all the cylinders are w/in factory compression?

EDIT: I'll have to add that a good used engine hoist/cherrypicker would be a good investment. So you'll have to add that to the cost of buying a jy block. They help w/ tranny swaps too. I know many don't like spending all weekend wrenching. I know many lack the confidence. Not the mental faculties. I'm not flaming you. You're perfectly capable. But, if you have the money then don't let my chinchy nature bother you . I am a scrooge.

 

[l3igl3ang]

EDIT: I'll have to add that a good used engine hoist/cherrypicker would be a good investment. So you'll have to add that to the cost of buying a jy block. They help w/ tranny swaps too. I know many don't like spending all weekend wrenching. I know many lack the confidence. Not the mental faculties. I'm not flaming you. You're perfectly capable. But, if you have the money then don't let my chinchy nature bother you . I am a scrooge.

lucky for me my firend works at a mechine shop and we have every thing from a chain hoist to a forklift so thats not going to be a problem and we can make pretty much any mods with need from metal if needed


and i know around here if i pay some one to rebuild my tranny and fix my oil leak there going to rip me off and charge around the same price as getting another motor

im can probly sell the one i pulled out for like $600 or $700 and recover almost 1/2 of the cost

 

[DSMunknown]

Just to indirectly answer the OP's question, click here. From what I understand, most people looking for "new" engines go to KarKing.

 

[l3igl3ang]

yeah seems like a alright price it would be good if my tranny did'nt have a syrno out

http://www.karking.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=31

but i bet shipping is around $400 + u got to pay 250 for core then also pay to ship that thing back which is probly another $300 to $500 which to me i rather just pay the core cost then ship the motor back to them

 

[rcrullamas]

heres my 2 cents on JDM motors..yes they do change the motors aroung 50k-60k if you're one of the lucky people who have bought one and never had a problem with it thats great..If we had the same emission laws here..how many times would you change the oil on your car knowing you have to get a new motor at 50k? how often would you really do preventative maintenance knowing you have to spend more money once your car hits 50k and on a car thats only worth 5k-10k? If those same emission laws applied here i would keep my expenses very low and save money for a new motor at 50k..jus something to think about when buying a JDM motor

 

[l3igl3ang]

heres my 2 cents on JDM motors..yes they do change the motors aroung 50k-60k if you're one of the lucky people who have bought one and never had a problem with it thats great..If we had the same emission laws here..how many times would you change the oil on your car knowing you have to get a new motor at 50k? how often would you really do preventative maintenance knowing you have to spend more money once your car hits 50k and on a car thats only worth 5k-10k? If those same emission laws applied here i would keep my expenses very low and save money for a new motor at 50k..jus something to think about when buying a JDM motor

Im sure if people over there have to change motors at 50k miles then they must have alot of money to do this so whats a few bucks for a oil change and if we had these laws here there would be alot of 10 speeds and 21 speeds bikes on the roads and not many cars

 

[Turboeagletalon]

This is what i do understand. My good friend bought him self a jdm motor. And the very first thing that we did with it was put it on a engine stand. Tair everything on it down to a long block. And use amercan spec. parts to build it back up. To alow us to drop it into his 93 talon tsi - conversion. Im not shure what good a cyclone intake is. when you don't have sufficiant parts to opperate it. Or an external oil cooler; oil filter flange when you have no oil cooler.

I guess what i am saying is be prepaired to make an american spec. motor out of it.

 

[dsm-onster]

What do you understand? Other than possibly a different manifold what are the differences. All turbo 4g63 engines have oil coolers; either air coolers or radiator coolers.

 

[CrisZ03]

yeah seems like a alright price it would be good if my tranny did'nt have a syrno out

http://www.karking.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=31

but i bet shipping is around $400 + u got to pay 250 for core then also pay to ship that thing back which is probly another $300 to $500 which to me i rather just pay the core cost then ship the motor back to them

That's a whole lot of shipping... We only charge 250 round trip shipping to get the engine to you and to ship back the core. Anywhere in the US, except Alaska and Hawaii... Just wanted to clear that up.

Thanks, Cris - Kar King Auto

 

[hopwoodp]

I need to open this back up. I lived in Japan for almost 2 years. I know the vehicle inspections they have. It is not only emission laws they have. They also check for corrosion
and how things look in the engine bay. You need to understand that in japan there is alot of humidity in certain parts and salt. That will rust things up pretty quick. Another thing, engines in japan are very cheap. You could get a 4g63t motor for $400.00 and a 6 cylinder like a 2jz or rb25/26 for $700.00. At the yard, they pull the engine replace what ever is leaking, clean it up and sell it again. These test are very harsh. They also are every year. Why do you think all the cars there that you see have spotless engine bays.

Also, in japan you run 101 to 110 octane leaded gas. Auto parts are very inexpensive. A rebuilt alternator for a nissan silvia is $50. A good tested ecu is less than $100.00 .

Another thing to keep in mind. Cars in Japan are also very cheap. My friend got a GTR-32 for $4,000.00 in mint condition. Silvia's from the s13's are $1,000.00 to the s15 that you could get for $4,000.00. People go through cars pretty dang fast over there.

The reason that these engines and parts are so much more expensive over here is because foreign trade policies and shipping cost, unless you happen to have a friend that lives in japan and owns his own export business.

It is sad how much misinformation is in these "jdm" thread. The junkyards in japan are very clean and well kept. All the people there take pride in what they do and how they conduct their business. All the junkyards I have seen from san diego to santa barbara are completely different. Take all this into consideration next time.

If you have the money, I would say to build your own engine. Find a used motor at whatever junk yard or someone in our classifieds and go that way.

Another thing, there are some really shady people who sell used japanese engines. Some people do get some bad motors. Thats why you buy from someone that gives you a
good warranty and has a good track record. I would not buy one from ebay but, that is my personal opinion.

If you don't understand what I said or have some questions, I have no problem clarifying or answering anything you need.