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Spark Plug Stripped Head- What to do

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PrettyRicky13

Probationary Member
3
0
May 22, 2007
Newton, Massachusetts
I was driving and noticed my spark plug shot out with the wire attached and realized that it stripped the head where it attaches. Does anyone know a solution to this or will I need to get a new head?
 
You could probably retap it because the head is aluminum, but it will be so much easier to get a new head. There is plenty out there, and the odds of rethreading it correctly are slim.
 
Whoa whoa whoa! You don't need a new head if the sparkplug stripped it our. Look into something called Heli-coil.

Here is a link to get you started: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/hel5546-9.html

A brief summary: Heli-coil is like re-tapping the threads, but it doesn't carve anything out. you see, when you re-tap something you carve out a little bit of the threads to recut them. Thus, you have a larger diameter hole.

Heli-coil re feeds in aluminum clone threads. It works just like a tap, but it fills in the missing places. Currently we have a heli-coil thread holding the head on a SRT4, so you can get an idea of their holding power.

Heli-coil is also much, much cheaper than a new head. Go to sears, i think they stock the kits. You don't have to be a surgeon to use them either.

Good luck let us know if it works for you!

EDIT: Yes, it does remove some thread, but it fills it back in with the heli-coil.
 
Whoa whoa whoa! You don't need a new head if the sparkplug stripped it our. Look into something called Heli-coil.

Here is a link to get you started: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/hel5546-9.html

A brief summary: Heli-coil is like re-tapping the threads, but it doesn't carve anything out. you see, when you re-tap something you carve out a little bit of the threads to recut them. Thus, you have a larger diameter hole.

Heli-coil re feeds in aluminum clone threads. It works just like a tap, but it fills in the missing places. Currently we have a heli-coil thread holding the head on a SRT4, so you can get an idea of their holding power.

Heli-coil is also much, much cheaper than a new head. Go to sears, i think they stock the kits. You don't have to be a surgeon to use them either.

Good luck let us know if it works for you!

Yes a Heli-coil will work but it does remove metal. You first drill the hole out larger. Then install the Heli-Coil insert. Check Napa they usually have them for spark plugs.
 
id use this as an excuse to find a 100$ used head, and build it up (Cams, Springs, etc), and do a timing belt job while the head is off anyways. thats just me though.
 

On the barnhillbolt web site they have a spark plug chaser with a helicoil tap on the end of it. All you do is insert it in the plug hole(make sure you put grease on the threads to make sure no chips drop into the cylinder) thread it in and let the tap portion cut new threads.

Once done insert a helicoil (a helicoil is a staneless steel wire). Once done it will be good for life (and at the same time do the other three someone must have over tourqed the plugs to strip the threads at some time.

No need to pull the head.
 
+1 on HeliCoil repair. Plug hole repair was one of their original applications, and they work splendidly for that. Spark plugs seat by using the shoulder of the body, not the threads. HeliCoils are perfect, and in fact make a better thread surface than the original aluminum casting does.
 
Hello I'm new on the site and was looking for this exact issue. I just had this happen last Friday night (hell of a way to start off the weekend, right?) Anybody know the actual measurement or size needed for the 420 motor? I'm at work right now and can't check it out, but I'd like to order this ASAP...as I need the car to get from A to B everyday.

thanks for any help in advance.:thumb:
 
In the event that anybody else has this issue and goes this route...the thread measurements for the 420A Spark Plugs are:

M14x1.25 with a 19mm reach.
 
I'm posting as I get more info on this stuff...I think this should be the last one though.

The manufacturer part number is 5334-14. They do carry it at Autozone. I gotta call the guy back a little later for a price, but I'm thinking it will run around 40 bucks. Not too bad.
 
This is why I checked before I followed that statement blindly...didn't seem right. Seeing as the FIRST question they asked me when I called the shop was, "What kind of car do you drive?" I'm glad.


I do know some about cars...it's just the little crap like these situations that make me ask the questions. Ah well...got the answers I needed. I'll hit the parts store tomorrow and hopefully have it fixed before work.:thumb:
 
I wasn't really trying to be an ass, but that was some blatant misinformation right there. I see a lot of people post assumptions as if they're fact and it's important that people get real answers to the questions they ask, not some off-the-cuff bulls***.

By the way, I had a bad experience with a brand new set of Accel plugs in my Suzuki. I had a plug shorting out right out of the box. That's not acceptable in my opinion. That seems to be a brand some parts stores tend to sling, so I would stay away from them.

I don't know how well NGK coppers work in the 420A, but they made a great temporary replacement in my Swift. In my DSM, I've had nothing but great luck using NGK coppers, where a lot of other plugs didn't fare so well. In my opinion, they're the best plug for the money.

$40 sounds kind of expensive. The coppers can't be more than a few bucks per plug. I would make sure they're not trying to up-sell you on some dual/quad electrode crap or platinums/iridiums. In my experience, those plugs work WORSE than coppers. The fancy electrodes are only designed for longevity (that's why you'll see many OEMs using iridiums these days), not performance. Not worth the money at all, IMO.
 
I wasn't really trying to be an ass, but that was some blatant misinformation right there. I see a lot of people post assumptions as if they're fact and it's important that people get real answers to the questions they ask, not some off-the-cuff bulls***.

By the way, I had a bad experience with a brand new set of Accel plugs in my Suzuki. I had a plug shorting out right out of the box. That's not acceptable in my opinion. That seems to be a brand some parts stores tend to sling, so I would stay away from them.

I don't know how well NGK coppers work in the 420A, but they made a great temporary replacement in my Swift. In my DSM, I've had nothing but great luck using NGK coppers, where a lot of other plugs didn't fare so well. In my opinion, they're the best plug for the money.

$40 sounds kind of expensive. The coppers can't be more than a few bucks per plug. I would make sure they're not trying to up-sell you on some dual/quad electrode crap or platinums/iridiums. In my experience, those plugs work WORSE than coppers. The fancy electrodes are only designed for longevity (that's why you'll see many OEMs using iridiums these days), not performance. Not worth the money at all, IMO.


I apreciate the advice on the spark plugs. They're not trying to sell me the plugs for that much. The info/price I listed above was for the HeliCoil Kit to fix the stripped threads in my head.

Either way, it's all good info to have. Thanks.
 
I've actually had to helicoil my head for the #1 spark plug and defiant was actually the person that recommended it. Worked like a charm with the head still in the car. Just make sure you catch as much metal as you can with a magnet/vacuum.
 
Time-Serts are better quality than Heli-Coil.
I've used both and not any problems but was more impressed with Time-Serts.

As for using a magnet, aluminum will not stick to a magnet.
A vacuum is a much better idea.

kwheeler
 
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