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scm6152e on stock bottom end? (6 bolt)

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90laserRSfwd

15+ Year Contributor
1,411
86
Mar 5, 2007
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Ok so I've been searching and reading for the last 3 day's and I still can't find what I'm looking for. So hear's the sinario....

(my toy)
90 Laser RS 5 speed fwd turbo
143K
bone stock bottum end

rebuilt cylinder head
new valve seals
new ferra s/s comp 6000 valves
crower springs and titan. retainers
all new valve guides
blah blah blah
(running 93 awd turbo factory AA cams)

I have an scm6152e (PTE turbo)
ported 2g manifold
2 1/2" dumped o2 housing
3" turbo back (no cat)(VRS system)
FMIC with 2 1/2" charge pipes
MAF Translator (dejon tool uicp)
vented turbosmart bov
255hp rewired pump
FIC 950cc injectors
dsmchips stage 3 chip
fpr
and some more little things (mbc, gauges, etc.)

So here's my question...... WHAT CAN I EXPECT?

spool wise (rpm)
what boost is safe to run on pump (93 oct. afc tuning, notta for timing yet)
what kind of power should I be looking for (on pump gas)

I know you would need my compression numbers but the motor is apart right now b/c the arp studs and mitsu metal head gasket didn't get here yet. Also I'm running stock intake manifold and 1990 t/b.

new timing belt, b/s belt, tensioners, idlers, etc. all being done too
also have prothane motor mounts, s/s clutch line, etc.
stock (15 miles) clutch right now <---- I know what a joke

sorry for the novel, anything you guys have to offer would be greatly appriciated. I know the car needs to be better built but untill I have it running again and I get the money together for the rods, pistons, and so on I'm sticking with the stock bottum end and cams/intake/TB setup.

-Jace :laser:
 
The only thing that is holding you back would be your stock clutch. Otherwise you will be having plenty of power for a FWD, expect wheel spin through 3rd gear.
 
Boost it until it knocks, then back it off. What headgasket and head studs? That will limit you to around 21psi
 
So which clutch? I would like to keep a street disc if I can... how are the 6 puck sprungs? Anygood on the street, I'm not afraid to get on the car or of a heavy clutch pedal.

2100 with street disc
2100 with sprung 6 puck
2600 with street disc

What flywheel? Fidanza? ACT? RRE?
Do I need the FP stud kit?
 
So which clutch? I would like to keep a street disc if I can... how are the 6 puck sprungs? Anygood on the street, I'm not afraid to get on the car or of a heavy clutch pedal.

2100 with street disc
2100 with sprung 6 puck
2600 with street disc

What flywheel? Fidanza? ACT? RRE?
Do I need the FP stud kit?


go with the 2600. i hate driving my puck clutch around. you can daily drive them but they get kinda annoying (to myself of course. you might like them and plenty others like them also)

i would also recomend a stock flywheel. i hate the way my car de-rev's so fast that it stalls the car. to me a fidanza flywheel didnt help all that much and wouldnt recomend one unless you were doing road racing. just get the flywheel turned and call it a day.

ONCE AGAIN. this is just my opinion.
 
with 950cc injectors and a good tune, no reason why you cant run 25-26 psi, thats what we were using on my buddies 2g on pump gas with 880's. at 26psi you are looking at about 430whp
 
From my milder approach I have seen good results on 20 psi and 25 psi with a 50/50 cut of 91/c16 116 octane....:thumb:

No dyno session or completely flawless shift 1/4's.....but I will note publicly that my car is not "fine tuned" (no SAFC, or logging stuff...purely a burned chip) by any means but more or less conservative...

I got 4 passes in at Lubbock Dragway a few weeks ago and could never get second gear to shift,....one pass requiring 3 attempts bouncing on the rev limiter 7800 :sneaky:

and still pulled a 109.7 and backed that up with a 2nd attempt success to 2nd and a 111.7 trap speed...my best trap speed ever, and 22nd best E.T. at 13.57 :rolleyes: :shhh:

I see 20 psi by 4000 rpm, my car has stock 1g cams/2g intake/1g throttlebody.
Is your turbo internally wastegated, or is it external WG?

Expect 350-550whp at your whim....=fuel/boost level away.

Get a 2600 CM street disc setup, break it all in fresh, and call it a day...:thumb:

Pump gas is crap.
Anything above 20psi will knock like crazy on it.
Upto 20? Its not real dangerous as long as you have the fuel.
Get some serious VP C16, and run it as strong (more race fuel to pump gas) as you can, so go empty and expect to pay $10 a gallon and get 5-6 so you can play awhile!!
 
The turbo is internally wastegated with an o2 dump tube, no cat, full 3" VRS turbo back... and @ the track I'll be using my FP 4" cast intake pipe, and more then likely taking the air filter and headlight out
 
I know this is probably a really stupid question but....

DSMLink $550 (shipped give or take)

SAFC I, Palm 105, MMCD software, all batteries, cables etc. $300

Is it worth even getting the SAFC and logger? My ecu is recapped and socketed already (hence the stage 3 chip from Jeff O.)
 
Would it be worth the effort to switch to a T3 manifold and external wastegate? HP wise on the stock bottum end I mean? Or will I be fine with the Mitsu. bolt on exhaust and internal wastegate? Any difference in spool up time or torque that would make it worth the money?
 
You can usually make more power on the t3 setup. It cost's more money, but in the end you will see better spool time( depending on what you go with) and flow more air.
 
not to bring this thread back from the dead but I ended up making 381whp and 296 trq, (23 psi creeped and stayed @ 22 after that) then I spun a balance shaft bearing and ruined that motor... that's fwhp incase anyone wants to know.

-Ciao
 
Get AEM and get it tuned by a proffesional if your looking to make big power in a stock motor. I would never buy AEM new. They can be found for $900 to $1200, not that much more than DSM link.
 
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