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Evo 3 16G, and a warbro 255 but what else am i going to need to reach my goals?

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2GEcpliseluvr

15+ Year Contributor
83
4
Jan 18, 2006
Grover Beach, California
I have a 7 bolt gst, the goal im trying to reach for my car, is around 20 psi or as close to that as i can come on daily driven, suporting mods i have are upper and lower innercooler piping, greddy type s reciculating bov, magnacore wires, NGK iridium IXs, hks sponge, 3" down pipe,3" cat delete, 3 " cat back, Turbo XS MBC, i have a boost gauge, i also removed the boost silinoid restricter so im already at 12 psi, i wana go with a Evo 3 16G, and a warbrol 255 but what else am i going to need to reach my goals?
 
You might want to get something to control your a/f and stuff like that. (I.E. SAFC or something along those lines)
 
you'll need an AFC or a dsmlink. i recommend the dsmlink bc you'll be able to control the motor flawlessly, bigger injectors...that should be all. just be careful, 7 bolts are notorious for "developing", for lack of a better word, crank walk (sp), you coul seriously damage your whole block. anyway good luck with the build up..
 
You'll also need an AFPR if you go with a walbro 255. You will also need larger injectors. You might also want a logger to tune with if you get the SAFC.
 
You will also need to upgrade your fuel injectors - the factory injectors will not support that amount of airflow. In addition, you will also need a fuel controller of some sort (SAFC, DSMLink, etc.) to support these injectors. You will also need to upgrade your intercooler, especially if you plan on running 20psi on pump gas. Also, if you decide to go with a Walbro 255, then you will need to replace your factory FPR with an adjustable FPR.

Crap... I've gotta learn to type faster!
 
And, personally, I'd suggest going with a T28 turbo. still a 16g, it's a little cheaper, and you'll get close to if not the same power out of it, just a suggestion.
 
Please do not be afraid to modify your 7bolt. Crankwalk is so overrated. If worse comes to worse you can just swap it out and swap your parts over IF something like that ever happens.
 
I have a 7 bolt gst, the goal im trying to reach for my car, is around 20 psi or as close to that as i can come on daily driven, suporting mods i have are upper and lower innercooler piping, greddy type s reciculating bov, magnacore wires, NGK iridium IXs, hks sponge, 3" down pipe,3" cat delete, 3 " cat back, Turbo XS MBC, i have a boost gauge, i also removed the boost silinoid restricter so im already at 12 psi, i wana go with a Evo 3 16G, and a warbrol 255 but what else am i going to need to reach my goals?
You're suppose to remove the BCS completely when installing a MBC. Also make sure the TurboXS is not connected to the BOV line.
 
And if you do decide to go with the link might as well get atleast 650+ injectors just in case you plan on ever going any bigger. I personally went with the e316g, cheeper and more power than the t28. But def a fmic of supra sidemount as zippy stated. Also if you have not looked into a clutch you will def be needing something stronger, act 2100 or somthing within those lines. Good luck.
alex-
 
Please do not be afraid to modify your 7bolt. Crankwalk is so overrated. If worse comes to worse you can just swap it out and swap your parts over IF something like that ever happens.

The only problem I have with that statement is that you make it sound cheap and easy to swap the engine out... it's not.

Otherwise... 7bolts imo are unpredictable.
 
Quick question why would you need bigger injectors for a 255 fuel pump. He should still be able to use them he would just need a fpr so the pump doesn't over run the stock one..
No, he doesn't need them for the 255 but he will need them for running 20psi on a 16g, the need for AFPR goes without saying.
 
And, personally, I'd suggest going with a T28 turbo. still a 16g, it's a little cheaper, and you'll get close to if not the same power out of it, just a suggestion.


A T28 is definitely not cheaper than a 16g, unless you are figuring install kit. Even still, 16g is usually cheaper.
 
A 255 seems like overkill for an evo3 at 20psi. I'm running a 190 with lots, and lots, more mods and I have zero problems coming up with fuel. It would also eliminate the need for a fuel pressure regulator. Also... you'd be fine with some 550's.... *hint* EVO 560cc injectors swap right in *hint* ;)

An intercooler is a must. I have a supra sidemount in my car and it makes for one badOMG sleeper.

This approach would make tuning fully possible with nothing but an SAFC and a logger. :thumb:
 
I have a 7 bolt gst, the goal im trying to reach for my car, is around 20 psi or as close to that as i can come on daily driven, suporting mods i have are upper and lower innercooler piping, greddy type s reciculating bov, magnacore wires, NGK iridium IXs, hks sponge, 3" down pipe,3" cat delete, 3 " cat back, Turbo XS MBC, i have a boost gauge, i also removed the boost silinoid restricter so im already at 12 psi, i wana go with a Evo 3 16G, and a warbrol 255 but what else am i going to need to reach my goals?

How are those NGK iridium plugs?? Are the 2 step colder or what? All I use are the proven BPR7ES's..

If you're going to get a 255lph fuel pump, I suggest you pick up an Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator and gauge.. You can definitely just use a 190 pump and get away without using an AFPR.

If you don't have a fuel controller yet, I highly recommend trying out Jeff's DSMCHIPS.. He's got a package that includes a base tune chip with an eprom ecu, PLUG AND PLAY. 650cc injectors will be sufficient, but I would suggest just buying 750cc injectors if you're going dsmlink, or dsmchips just because YOU WILL ALWAYS WANT TO GO BIGGER.. :thumb: Jeff's chips are a very close tune, and some of the features include KNOCK count meter, 3 stage rev limiter, etc. Knock meter helped me a lot. He's great with customer service, and if your chip is way out of tune for some odd reason, he'll send you another to correct it.!!!

So here's what I recommend. 190LPH pump, FUEL PUMP REWIRE KIT, 650cc injectors, DSMCHIPS Stage 3 chip and you're good to go!

I highly recommend re wiring your fuel pump as well, whenever you're boosting over 18psi. I didn't think it would make much of a difference until I DID IT MYSELF. My wideband used to read a very unstable air fuel ratio and it would lean out at peak boost, when I rewired it, the A/F Ratio is very stable now, and it does not fluctuate anymore. They're like 20 bux, and takes only 30 minutes to install.

I'm also only using an EVO IX fuel pump with my EVOIII Custom 18G GT turbo, which flows a little more than the regular evoIII, and I'm fine with it.

Good luck and have fun... this hobby gets very addictive.. I've slowed down on upgrading because I just got ripped off by BlackGSX on dsmtrader.com from NC... under than name Jerry Sexton... got me for 250.00... But once I get over it, I'll add more stuff.


Take care!

Mark
 
you can max out an evo 3 with a 190 with a bit to spare.
 
Im in the same boat nad the set up im lookin at is

660cc injectors
190 pump re wired
3" maf blow through simply for the-
GenII translator+wb tracking
XSpower FMIC
EVO3 16G
port match everything


i really like the GENII>SAFC becuase they both have around the same correction rates, but you can pick up a 5v(wb) O2 sensor and plug it into the GEN2 to make your tuning all one piece.
 
ok next question.. If the you don't need a afpr will the computer correct the flow by it self or do you need something to tune the extra fuel with. I thought the purpose of the afpr was to adjust how much fuel you are dumping because it puts out way more than you would need.
 
ok next question.. If the you don't need a afpr will the computer correct the flow by it self or do you need something to tune the extra fuel with. I thought the purpose of the afpr was to adjust how much fuel you are dumping because it puts out way more than you would need.

The computer (ECU) does not control the fuel pressure - this is the sole purpose of the fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator is a purely mechanical device not controlled in any way by the ECU. The only "control" for the regulator is the manifold pressure. The ECU assumes that the fuel pressure at the injectors is maintained at 43.5 psi relative to manifold pressure (2G), or 37 psi relative to manifold pressure (1G). As long as the regulator is doing its job, then this assumption will be correct. With the correct fuel pressure (relative to manifold pressure) applied to the injectors, the injectors will flow at their rated value (450 cc/min for 2G factory injectors, for example), and the amount of fuel the ECU "thinks" its injecting will be accurate.

The fuel pressure regulator controls fuel pressure by returning unused fuel back to the fuel tank in order to maintain a constant fuel pressure relative to manifold pressure. Under low manifold pressure conditions (vacuum), a lot of fuel will be returned to the fuel tank to maintain a lower fuel pressure. Under high manifold pressure (high boost), less fuel will be returned to the fuel tank to maintain a higher fuel pressure. Hope this makes sense.
 
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